ESTEE LAUDER COMPANIES INC (EL)
SIC breadcrumb: Manufacturing > Chemicals And Allied Products > SIC 2844 Perfumes, Cosmetics & Other Toilet Preparations
SEC company page: https://www.sec.gov/edgar/browse/?CIK=1001250. Latest filing source: 0001001250-25-000099.
Informational only - descriptive public-record data, not investment advice.
Selected Fundamentals
| Metric | Value | Unit | FY | Filed |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Revenue | 14,326,000,000 | USD | 2025 | 2025-08-20 |
| Net income | -1,133,000,000 | USD | 2025 | 2025-08-20 |
| Assets | 19,892,000,000 | USD | 2025 | 2025-08-20 |
Financials
Annual standardized facts from SEC companyfacts as of latest extracted filing date 2025-08-20. Source: https://data.sec.gov/api/xbrl/companyfacts/CIK0001001250.json. Derived margins, ratios, and free cash flow are computed from the extracted annual SEC facts.
| Metric | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2020 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Revenue | 11,824,000,000 | 13,683,000,000 | 14,863,000,000 | 14,294,000,000 | 16,215,000,000 | 17,737,000,000 | 15,910,000,000 | 15,608,000,000 | 14,326,000,000 | |
| Net income | 1,121,000,000 | 1,256,000,000 | 1,117,000,000 | 1,794,000,000 | 696,000,000 | 2,875,000,000 | 2,408,000,000 | 1,010,000,000 | 409,000,000 | -1,133,000,000 |
| Operating income | 1,610,000,000 | 1,704,000,000 | 2,055,000,000 | 2,313,000,000 | 606,000,000 | 2,618,000,000 | 3,170,000,000 | 1,509,000,000 | 970,000,000 | -785,000,000 |
| Gross profit | 9,081,000,000 | 9,390,000,000 | 10,839,000,000 | 11,476,000,000 | 10,742,000,000 | 12,381,000,000 | 13,432,000,000 | 11,346,000,000 | 11,184,000,000 | 10,597,000,000 |
| Diluted EPS | 2.96 | 3.35 | 2.95 | 4.82 | 1.86 | 7.79 | 6.55 | 2.79 | 1.08 | -3.15 |
| Operating cash flow | 1,789,000,000 | 1,790,000,000 | 2,562,000,000 | 2,517,000,000 | 2,280,000,000 | 3,631,000,000 | 3,040,000,000 | 1,731,000,000 | 2,360,000,000 | 1,272,000,000 |
| Capital expenditures | 525,000,000 | 504,000,000 | 629,000,000 | 744,000,000 | 623,000,000 | 637,000,000 | 1,040,000,000 | 1,003,000,000 | 919,000,000 | 602,000,000 |
| Dividends paid | 423,000,000 | 486,000,000 | 546,000,000 | 609,000,000 | 503,000,000 | 753,000,000 | 840,000,000 | 925,000,000 | 947,000,000 | 618,000,000 |
| Share buybacks | 890,000,000 | 413,000,000 | 759,000,000 | 1,555,000,000 | 893,000,000 | 733,000,000 | 2,309,000,000 | 271,000,000 | 35,000,000 | 35,000,000 |
| Assets | 9,223,000,000 | 11,568,000,000 | 12,567,000,000 | 13,156,000,000 | 17,781,000,000 | 21,971,000,000 | 20,910,000,000 | 23,415,000,000 | 21,677,000,000 | 19,892,000,000 |
| Stockholders' equity | 3,587,000,000 | 4,402,000,000 | 4,710,000,000 | 4,411,000,000 | 3,962,000,000 | 6,091,000,000 | 5,590,000,000 | 5,585,000,000 | 5,314,000,000 | 3,865,000,000 |
| Free cash flow | 1,264,000,000 | 1,286,000,000 | 1,933,000,000 | 1,773,000,000 | 1,657,000,000 | 2,994,000,000 | 2,000,000,000 | 728,000,000 | 1,441,000,000 | 670,000,000 |
Ratios
| Metric | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2020 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Net margin | 10.62% | 8.16% | 12.07% | 4.87% | 17.73% | 13.58% | 6.35% | 2.62% | -7.91% | |
| Operating margin | 14.41% | 15.02% | 15.56% | 4.24% | 16.15% | 17.87% | 9.48% | 6.21% | -5.48% | |
| Return on equity | 31.25% | 28.53% | 23.72% | 40.67% | 17.57% | 47.20% | 43.08% | 18.08% | 7.70% | -29.31% |
| Return on assets | 12.15% | 10.86% | 8.89% | 13.64% | 3.91% | 13.09% | 11.52% | 4.31% | 1.89% | -5.70% |
| Current ratio | 1.58 | 1.76 | 1.86 | 1.57 | 1.72 | 1.84 | 1.60 | 1.46 | 1.39 | 1.30 |
Financial Charts
Quarterly
Quarterly standardized facts from SEC companyfacts as of latest extracted filing date 2026-05-01. Source: https://data.sec.gov/api/xbrl/companyfacts/CIK0001001250.json.
| Quarter | End Date | Revenue | Net Income | Diluted EPS | Method |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2023-Q1 | 2022-09-30 | 1.35 | reported discrete quarter | ||
| 2023-Q2 | 2022-12-31 | 1.09 | reported discrete quarter | ||
| 2023-Q3 | 2023-03-31 | 0.43 | reported discrete quarter | ||
| 2023-Q4 | 2023-06-30 | 3,609,000,000 | -33,000,000 | derived Q4 = FY annual - nine-month YTD | |
| 2024-Q1 | 2023-09-30 | 3,518,000,000 | 31,000,000 | 0.09 | reported discrete quarter |
| 2024-Q2 | 2023-12-31 | 4,279,000,000 | 313,000,000 | 0.87 | reported discrete quarter |
| 2024-Q3 | 2024-03-31 | 3,940,000,000 | 330,000,000 | 0.91 | reported discrete quarter |
| 2024-Q4 | 2024-06-30 | 3,871,000,000 | -284,000,000 | derived Q4 = FY annual - nine-month YTD | |
| 2025-Q1 | 2024-09-30 | 3,361,000,000 | -156,000,000 | -0.43 | reported discrete quarter |
| 2025-Q2 | 2024-12-31 | 4,004,000,000 | -590,000,000 | -1.64 | reported discrete quarter |
| 2025-Q3 | 2025-03-31 | 3,550,000,000 | 159,000,000 | 0.44 | reported discrete quarter |
| 2025-Q4 | 2025-06-30 | 3,411,000,000 | -546,000,000 | derived Q4 = FY annual - nine-month YTD | |
| 2026-Q1 | 2025-09-30 | 3,481,000,000 | 47,000,000 | 0.13 | reported discrete quarter |
| 2026-Q2 | 2025-12-31 | 4,229,000,000 | 162,000,000 | 0.44 | reported discrete quarter |
| 2026-Q3 | 2026-03-31 | 3,712,000,000 | 89,000,000 | 0.24 | reported discrete quarter |
Quarterly Charts
Macro Cross-References
- CPIAUCSL - Consumer Price Index for All Urban Consumers: All Items in U.S. City Average
- UNRATE - Unemployment Rate
- FEDFUNDS - Federal Funds Effective Rate
- CES0500000003 - Average Hourly Earnings of All Employees, Total Private
- DFEDTARU - Federal Funds Target Range - Upper Limit
- DFEDTARL - Federal Funds Target Range - Lower Limit
- DGS3MO - Market Yield on U.S. Treasury Securities at 3-Month Constant Maturity
- DGS2 - Market Yield on U.S. Treasury Securities at 2-Year Constant Maturity
- DGS10 - Market Yield on U.S. Treasury Securities at 10-Year Constant Maturity
- DGS30 - Market Yield on U.S. Treasury Securities at 30-Year Constant Maturity
- T10Y2Y - 10-Year Treasury Constant Maturity Minus 2-Year Treasury Constant Maturity
- CPILFESL - Consumer Price Index for All Urban Consumers: All Items Less Food and Energy
- CPIUFDSL - Consumer Price Index for All Urban Consumers: Food
- CPIENGSL - Consumer Price Index for All Urban Consumers: Energy
- CUSR0000SAH1 - Consumer Price Index for All Urban Consumers: Shelter
- PCEPI - Personal Consumption Expenditures: Chain-type Price Index
- PCEPILFE - Personal Consumption Expenditures Excluding Food and Energy: Chain-type Price Index
- PPIACO - Producer Price Index by Commodity: All Commodities
- T10YIE - 10-Year Breakeven Inflation Rate
- U6RATE - Total Unemployed, Plus All Marginally Attached Workers Plus Total Employed Part Time for Economic Reasons
- PAYEMS - All Employees, Total Nonfarm
- CIVPART - Labor Force Participation Rate
- EMRATIO - Employment-Population Ratio
- UNEMPLOY - Unemployed
- CE16OV - Employment Level
- ICSA - Initial Claims
- JTSJOL - Job Openings: Total Nonfarm
- JTSQUR - Quits: Total Nonfarm
- GDPC1 - Real Gross Domestic Product
- A191RL1Q225SBEA - Real Gross Domestic Product: Percent Change from Preceding Period
- INDPRO - Industrial Production: Total Index
- TCU - Capacity Utilization: Total Index
- HOUST - New Privately-Owned Housing Units Started: Total Units
- PERMIT - New Privately-Owned Housing Units Authorized in Permit-Issuing Places: Total Units
- RSAFS - Advance Retail Sales: Retail Trade
- PCE - Personal Consumption Expenditures
- DSPIC96 - Real Disposable Personal Income
- PSAVERT - Personal Saving Rate
- M2SL - M2
- BOPGSTB - U.S. International Trade in Goods and Services: Balance
- MSPUS - Median Sales Price of Houses Sold for the United States
- HSN1F - New One Family Houses Sold: United States
- RHORUSQ156N - Homeownership Rate in the United States
- TTLCONS - Total Construction Spending: Total Construction in the United States
- RRVRUSQ156N - Rental Vacancy Rate in the United States
- TOTALSL - Total Consumer Credit Owned and Securitized
- REVOLSL - Revolving Consumer Credit Owned and Securitized
- DRCCLACBS - Delinquency Rate on Credit Card Loans, All Commercial Banks
- GDP - Gross Domestic Product
- GPDI - Gross Private Domestic Investment
- GCE - Government Consumption Expenditures and Gross Investment
- PCEC - Personal Consumption Expenditures
- NETEXP - Net Exports of Goods and Services
- GFDEBTN - Federal Debt: Total Public Debt
- GFDEGDQ188S - Federal Debt: Total Public Debt as Percent of Gross Domestic Product
- FYFSD - Federal Surplus or Deficit
- FGRECPT - Federal Government Current Receipts
- FGEXPND - Federal Government: Current Expenditures
- MANEMP - All Employees, Manufacturing
- USCONS - All Employees, Construction
- USTRADE - All Employees, Retail Trade
- USFIRE - All Employees, Financial Activities
- USGOVT - All Employees, Government
- AWHAETP - Average Weekly Hours of All Employees, Total Private
- DGORDER - Manufacturers' New Orders: Durable Goods
- NEWORDER - Manufacturers' New Orders: Nondefense Capital Goods Excluding Aircraft
- BUSINV - Total Business Inventories
- EXPGS - Exports of Goods and Services
- IMPGS - Imports of Goods and Services
- IR - Import Price Index (End Use): All Commodities
- PPIFIS - Producer Price Index by Commodity: Final Demand
Latest quarter (10-Q)
Latest 10-Q source: 0001001250-26-000019.
Item 2. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. is one of the world’s leading manufacturers, marketers and sellers of quality skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products. We are a steward of over 20 luxury and prestige brands globally. Our products are sold in approximately 150 countries and territories. We operate as a wholesaler, with our products sold in brick-and-mortar locations and on various e-commerce platforms, including those operated by department stores, duty-free retailers, specialty-multi retailers, online pure players, upscale perfumeries and pharmacies, and top-tier salons and spas. Additionally, we operate a direct-to-consumer business across freestanding stores, our brands' websites and third-party online platforms.
| Three Months Ended March 31, | Nine Months Ended March 31, | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2026 | 2025 | 2026 | 2025 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | $ | % | $ | % | $ | % | $ | % | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 3,712 | 100.0 | % | $ | 3,550 | 100.0 | % | $ | 11,422 | 100.0 | % | $ | 10,915 | 100.0 | % | ||||||||||||
| Cost of sales | 876 | 23.6 | 889 | 25.0 | 2,797 | 24.5 | 2,774 | 25.4 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Gross profit | 2,836 | 76.4 | 2,661 | 75.0 | 8,625 | 75.5 | 8,141 | 74.6 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Operating expenses: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Selling, general and administrative | 2,279 | 61.4 | 2,258 | 63.6 | 7,202 | 63.1 | 7,141 | 65.4 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Restructuring and other charges | 224 | 6.0 | 97 | 2.7 | 520 | 4.6 | 375 | 3.4 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Securities class action litigation settlement | 84 | 2.3 | — | — | 84 | 0.7 | — | — | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Impairment of goodwill and other intangible assets | — | — | — | — | — | — | 861 | 7.9 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Talcum litigation settlement agreements | — | — | — | — | — | — | 159 | 1.5 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Total operating expenses | 2,587 | 69.7 | 2,355 | 66.3 | 7,806 | 68.3 | 8,536 | 78.2 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Operating income (loss) | 249 | 6.7 | 306 | 8.6 | 819 | 7.2 | (395) | (3.6) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Interest expense | 82 | 2.2 | 87 | 2.5 | 253 | 2.2 | 269 | 2.5 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Interest income and investment income, net | 15 | 0.4 | 27 | 0.8 | 66 | 0.6 | 85 | 0.8 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Other components of net periodic benefit cost | 3 | 0.1 | 5 | 0.1 | 11 | 0.1 | 10 | 0.1 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Earnings (loss) before income taxes | 179 | 4.8 | 241 | 6.8 | 621 | 5.4 | (589) | (5.4) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Provision (benefit) for income taxes | 90 | 2.4 | 82 | 2.3 | 323 | 2.8 | (2) | — | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Net earnings (loss) | $ | 89 | 2.4 | % | $ | 159 | 4.5 | % | $ | 298 | 2.6 | % | $ | (587) | (5.4) | % |
Percentages not adjusted for differences caused by rounding
The following table is a comparative summary of operating results for the three and nine months ended March 31, 2026 and 2025, for our product categories and geographic regions and reflects the basis of presentation described in Notes to Consolidated Financial Statements, Note 1 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 13 – Segment Data and Related Information, for our product categories that meet the definition of reportable segments, for all periods presented. Royalty revenue from license arrangements, and products and services that do not fit within our definitions of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care have been included in the “other” category.
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THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC.
| Three Months Ended March 31, | Nine Months Ended March 31, | ||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2026 | 2025 | 2026 | 2025 | |||||||||||
| NET SALES | |||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 1,856 | $ | 1,807 | $ | 5,485 | $ | 5,257 | |||||||
| Makeup | 1,072 | 1,035 | 3,266 | 3,223 | |||||||||||
| Fragrance | 628 | 557 | 2,161 | 1,931 | |||||||||||
| Hair Care | 128 | 126 | 425 | 424 | |||||||||||
| Other | 28 | 25 | 84 | 80 | |||||||||||
| 3,712 | 3,550 | 11,421 | 10,915 | ||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | — | — | 1 | — | |||||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 3,712 | $ | 3,550 | $ | 11,422 | $ | 10,915 | |||||||
| By Geographic Region(1): | |||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 1,076 | $ | 1,063 | $ | 3,468 | $ | 3,469 | |||||||
| Europe, United Kingdom and Ireland and Emerging Markets ("EUKEM") | 859 | 785 | 2,943 | 2,738 | |||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 1,003 | 1,006 | 2,776 | 2,700 | |||||||||||
| Mainland China | 774 | 696 | 2,234 | 2,008 | |||||||||||
| 3,712 | 3,550 | 11,421 | 10,915 | ||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | — | — | 1 | — | |||||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 3,712 | $ | 3,550 | $ | 11,422 | $ | 10,915 | |||||||
| OPERATING INCOME (LOSS) | |||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 444 | $ | 361 | $ | 1,085 | $ | 784 | |||||||
| Makeup | (3) | 14 | — | (382) | |||||||||||
| Fragrance | 21 | 32 | 212 | (354) | |||||||||||
| Hair Care | (5) | (13) | 1 | (34) | |||||||||||
| Other | 16 | 9 | 38 | (25) | |||||||||||
| 473 | 403 | 1,336 | (11) | ||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (224) | (97) | (517) | (384) | |||||||||||
| Operating income (loss) | $ | 249 | $ | 306 | $ | 819 | $ | (395) | |||||||
| By Geographic Region(1): | |||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 21 | $ | 67 | $ | 212 | $ | (789) | |||||||
| EUKEM | 32 | 28 | 194 | 183 | |||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 261 | 232 | 611 | 460 | |||||||||||
| Mainland China | 159 | 76 | 319 | 135 | |||||||||||
| 473 | 403 | 1,336 | (11) | ||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (224) | (97) | (517) | (384) | |||||||||||
| Operating income (loss) | $ | 249 | $ | 306 | $ | 819 | $ | (395) |
(1) The net sales and operating results from our travel retail business are included in the Asia/Pacific region.
Period-over-period changes in our net sales are generally attributable to the impacts from (i) pricing on our base portfolio, including changes in mix and those due to strategic pricing actions, (ii) volume, including changes driven by the impact of new product innovation, (iii) acquisitions and/or divestitures, and/or (iv) foreign currency translation. The percentages disclosed for these impacts are calculated on an individual basis.
The net sales impact from pricing consists of changes in list prices, due to strategic pricing actions, and mix shifts within and among product categories, geographic regions, brands and distribution channels. The prices at which we sell our products vary by brand, distribution channel (e.g., wholesale or direct-to-consumer) and may also vary by country. Our brands and products cover a broad array of pricing tiers. Prices of skin care and fragrance products are typically higher than makeup and hair care products.
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THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC.
New product innovation includes the introduction of new products, as well as changes related to existing products or where they are sold, including reformulations, regional expansion, repackaging and sets. A product is considered "new innovation" for the twelve-month period following the initial shipment date. Our innovation is launched at different price points than existing products and value derived from innovation may vary from year to year. We continually introduce new products, support new and established products through advertising, merchandising and sampling and phase out existing products that no longer meet the needs of our consumers or our objectives. The economics of developing, producing, launching, supporting and discontinuing products impact our sales and operating performance each period. The introduction of new products often has some cannibalizing effect on sales of existing products, inclusive of potential sales returns, which we take into account in our business planning. The impact of new product introductions, including timing compared to introductions in prior periods, also affects our results.
Non-GAAP Financial Measures
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period helps investors and others compare operating performance between periods. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. See Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures beginning on page 57 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
We operate on a global basis, with the majority of our net sales generated outside the United States. Accordingly, fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates affect our results of operations. Therefore, we present certain net sales, operating results and diluted net earnings (loss) per common share information excluding the effect of foreign currency rate fluctuations to provide a framework for assessing the performance of our underlying business outside the United States. Constant currency information compares results between periods as if exchange rates had remained constant period-over-period. We calculate constant currency information by translating current-period results using prior-year monthly average foreign currency exchange rates and adjusting for the period-over-period impact of foreign currency cash flow hedging activities.
Outlook
While we have seen improvements within our business, we are mindful of areas of volatility and uncertainty that may impact our results. We continue to face challenges in key markets in the West, including in some markets in Western Europe and the United States. Within our Asia travel retail business, we continue to experience a transitory headwind from the change of duty-free retailers servicing the Beijing and Shanghai airports, including the related online businesses. We are also monitoring the conflict in the Middle East as it relates to our business in the domestic markets and travel retail locations in the region. Net sales from locations impacted by the conflict in the Middle East accounted for approximately 2% of consolidated net sales in fiscal 2025. We continue to monitor and assess the impact that these challenges may have on net sales and profitability, including impacts to our effective tax rate from changes to our geographical mix of earnings.
We are continuing to monitor and assess the potential effects of changing tariff conditions in the United States as well as in other markets in which we operate. These tariffs have led to significant volatility and uncertainty in global markets and difficulty in forecasting demand. We have implemented and are continuing to implement and consider additional mitigation measures. Our strategy remai
[Excerpt truncated for page length; source filing is linked above.]
Latest 10-K MD&A
Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
We manufacture, market and sell beauty products including those in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care categories, which are distributed in approximately 150 countries and territories.
| Year Ended June 30, | |||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2025 | 2024 | 2023 | |||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | $ | % | $ | % | $ | % | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 14,326 | 100.0 | % | $ | 15,608 | 100.0 | % | $ | 15,910 | 100.0 | % | |||||||||
| Cost of sales | 3,729 | 26.0 | 4,424 | 28.3 | 4,564 | 28.7 | |||||||||||||||
| Gross profit | 10,597 | 74.0 | 11,184 | 71.7 | 11,346 | 71.3 | |||||||||||||||
| Operating expenses: | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Selling, general and administrative | 9,456 | 66.0 | 9,621 | 61.6 | 9,575 | 60.2 | |||||||||||||||
| Restructuring and other charges | 481 | 3.4 | 122 | 0.8 | 55 | 0.3 | |||||||||||||||
| Goodwill impairment | 13 | 0.1 | 291 | 1.9 | — | — | |||||||||||||||
| Impairment of other intangible assets | 1,273 | 8.9 | 180 | 1.2 | 207 | 1.3 | |||||||||||||||
| Talcum litigation settlement agreements | 159 | 1.1 | — | — | — | — | |||||||||||||||
| Total operating expenses | 11,382 | 79.4 | 10,214 | 65.4 | 9,837 | 61.8 | |||||||||||||||
| Operating (loss) income | (785) | (5.5) | 970 | 6.2 | 1,509 | 9.5 | |||||||||||||||
| Interest expense | 357 | 2.5 | 378 | 2.4 | 255 | 1.6 | |||||||||||||||
| Interest income and investment income, net | 114 | 0.8 | 167 | 1.1 | 131 | 0.8 | |||||||||||||||
| Other components of net periodic benefit cost | 12 | 0.1 | (13) | (0.1) | (12) | (0.1) | |||||||||||||||
| (Loss) earnings before income taxes | (1,040) | (7.3) | 772 | 4.9 | 1,397 | 8.8 | |||||||||||||||
| Provision for income taxes | 93 | 0.6 | 363 | 2.3 | 387 | 2.4 | |||||||||||||||
| Net (loss) earnings | (1,133) | (7.9) | 409 | 2.6 | 1,010 | 6.3 | |||||||||||||||
| Net earnings attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest | — | — | (19) | (0.1) | (4) | — | |||||||||||||||
| Net (loss) earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | $ | (1,133) | (7.9) | % | $ | 390 | 2.5 | % | $ | 1,006 | 6.3 | % | |||||||||
| Percentages not adjusted for differences caused by rounding |
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The following table is a comparative summary of operating results for fiscal 2025, 2024 and 2023, for our product categories and geographic regions and reflects the basis of presentation described in Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 24 – Segment Data and Related Information, for our product categories that meet the definition of reportable segments, for all periods presented. Royalty revenue from license arrangements, and products and services that do not fit within our definitions of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care have been included in the “other” category.
| Year Ended June 30, | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2025 | 2024 | 2023 | ||||||||
| NET SALES | |||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 6,962 | $ | 7,908 | $ | 8,249 | |||||
| Makeup | 4,205 | 4,470 | 4,532 | ||||||||
| Fragrance | 2,491 | 2,487 | 2,451 | ||||||||
| Hair Care | 565 | 629 | 652 | ||||||||
| Other | 100 | 115 | 53 | ||||||||
| 14,323 | 15,609 | 15,937 | |||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | 3 | (1) | (27) | ||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 14,326 | $ | 15,608 | $ | 15,910 | |||||
| By Geographic Region(1): | |||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 4,411 | $ | 4,581 | $ | 4,518 | |||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 5,375 | 6,140 | 6,225 | ||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 4,537 | 4,888 | 5,194 | ||||||||
| 14,323 | 15,609 | 15,937 | |||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | 3 | (1) | (27) | ||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 14,326 | $ | 15,608 | $ | 15,910 | |||||
| OPERATING (LOSS) INCOME | |||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 574 | $ | 735 | $ | 1,277 | |||||
| Makeup | (441) | 93 | (21) | ||||||||
| Fragrance | (378) | 265 | 370 | ||||||||
| Hair Care | (41) | (52) | (36) | ||||||||
| Other | (13) | 53 | 4 | ||||||||
| (299) | 1,094 | 1,594 | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (486) | (124) | (85) | ||||||||
| Operating (loss) income | $ | (785) | $ | 970 | $ | 1,509 | |||||
| By Geographic Region(1): | |||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | (918) | $ | 34 | $ | (73) | |||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 610 | 836 | 843 | ||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 9 | 224 | 824 | ||||||||
| (299) | 1,094 | 1,594 | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (486) | (124) | (85) | ||||||||
| Operating (loss) income | $ | (785) | $ | 970 | $ | 1,509 |
(1)The net sales from the Company’s travel retail business are included in the Europe, the Middle East & Africa region, with the exception of net sales of Dr.Jart+ in the travel retail channel that are reflected in Korea in the Asia/Pacific region. Operating income attributable to the travel retail sales included in Europe, the Middle East & Africa is included in that region and in The Americas. This is primarily due to certain capabilities related to the travel retail business that are centralized in The Americas region and, as such, a component of the operating income generated by this business is transferred to The Americas through an intercompany royalty.
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Period-over-period changes in our net sales are generally attributable to the impacts from (i) pricing on our base portfolio, including changes in mix and those due to strategic pricing actions, (ii) volume, including changes driven by the impact of new product innovation, (iii) acquisitions and/or divestitures, and/or (iv) foreign currency translation. The percentages disclosed for these impacts are calculated on an individual basis.
The net sales impact from pricing consists of changes in list prices, due to strategic pricing actions, and mix shifts within and among product categories, geographic regions, brands and distribution channels. The prices at which we sell our products vary by brand, distribution channel (e.g., wholesale or direct-to-consumer) and may also vary by country. Our brands and products cover a broad array of pricing tiers. Prices of skin care and fragrance products are typically higher than makeup and hair care products.
New product innovation includes the introduction of new products, as well as changes related to existing products or markets where they are sold, including reformulations, regional expansion, repackaging and sets. A product is considered "new innovation" for the twelve-month period following the initial shipment date. Our innovation is often launched at different price points than existing products and value derived from innovation may vary from year to year. We continually introduce new products, support new and established products through advertising, merchandising and sampling and phase out existing products that no longer meet the needs of our consumers or our objectives. The economics of developing, producing, launching, supporting and discontinuing products impact our sales and operating performance each period. The introduction of new products often has some cannibalizing effect on sales of existing products, which we take into account in our business planning. The impact of new product introductions, including timing compared to introductions in prior periods, also affects our results.
Non-GAAP Financial Measures
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period helps investors and others compare operating performance between periods. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. See Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
We operate on a global basis, with the majority of our net sales generated outside the United States. Accordingly, fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates can affect our results of operations. Therefore, we present certain net sales, operating results, provision for income taxes and diluted net (loss) earnings per common share information excluding the effect of foreign currency rate fluctuations to provide a framework for assessing the performance of our underlying business outside the United States. Constant currency information compares results between periods as if exchange rates had remained constant period-over-period. We calculate constant currency information by translating current-period results using prior year monthly average foreign currency exchange rates and adjusting for the period-over-period impact of foreign currency cash flow hedging activities.
Overview
We are a leader in prestige beauty, which combines the repeat purchase and relative affordability of consumer goods with high quality products and services. Within prestige beauty, we are diversified by product category, geography, brand, product sub-category, channel, consumer segment and price point. We also leverage consumer analytics and insights across our brand portfolio to grow sales and pursue profitable opportunities. These analytics and insights, combined with our creativity, also inform our innovation to provide a broad, locally-relevant and inclusive range of prestige products with the aim of competing effectively for a greater share of a consumer's beauty routine.
Our global distribution capability and operations allow us to focus on targeted expanded consumer reach wherever consumer demographics and trends are attractive. Our regional organizations, and the expertise of our people there, enable our brands to be more locally and culturally relevant in both product assortment and communications. We are continually evolving the way we connect with our consumers in stores, online and where they travel, including by expanding our digital and social media presence and the engagement of global and local influencers to amplify brand or product stories. We tailor implementation of our strategy by market to drive consumer engagement, recruitment and loyalty. We strive to strengthen our presence in large, image-building core markets, while broadening our presence in emerging markets.
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We approach distribution strategically by product category and location and seek to optimize distribution by matching our brands with appropriate opportunities while seeking to maintain high productivity per door. We are expanding our brands' locations as we continue to seek high-growth opportunities to reach new consumers in online, freestanding stores, specialty-multi and travel retail, which we believe will be higher growth channels in the long term. We also focus on brand-building retail activities, technology-driven activations and omnichannel capabilities that enhance the shopping experience for consumers.
Outlook
We have experienced challenges within our business and we expect volatility and uncertainty to continue. Although there are early signs of stabilization in mainland China, travel retail continues to be weak and challenges persist in the West, including subdued sentiment in the U.S. and Western Europe. These challenges are collectively expected to impact net sales and profitability, including impacts to our effective tax rate from changes to our geographical mix of earnings.
We are continuing to monitor and assess the potential effects of new and existing tariffs in the United States as well as in other markets in which we operate. These tariffs have led to significant volatility and uncertainty in global markets and difficulty in forecasting demand. We have implemented and are continuing to implement and consider additional mitigation measures. The impact was not material to fiscal 2025 profitability and cash flows, however, even if we can minimize some of these impacts, we anticipate higher tariff rates to have an adverse effect on fiscal 2026 profitability and cash flows, and depending on actual rates and countries imposing tariffs such adverse impacts could be material.
We continue to believe that the best way to increase long-term stockholder value is to provide superior products and services in the most efficient and effective manner while recognizing shifts in consumers’ behaviors and shopping practices. Accordingly, our long-term strategy has numerous initiatives across product categories, brands, geographic regions, channels of distribution and functions designed to grow our sales, provide cost efficiencies, leverage our strengths, such as our history of outstanding creativity and innovation, high quality products and services, and engaging communications, and make us more productive and profitable. With the transition of leadership in the second and third quarters of fiscal 2025, we have embarked on "Beauty Reimagined," a strategic vision which focuses on accelerating best-in-class consumer coverage, creating transformative innovation, boosting consumer-facing investments, fueling sustainable growth through bold efficiencies and reimagining the way we work, including through the expansion of the Profit Recovery and Growth Plan ("PRGP"), as discussed below.
We continue to monitor the effects of the global macro environment, including the risk of recession; currency volatility; inflationary pressures; supply chain challenges; social and political issues; competitive pressures; legal and regulatory matters, including the imposition of tariffs and sanctions; geopolitical tensions; and global security issues. We are also mindful of inflationary pressures (including those caused by tariffs) on our cost base and are monitoring the impact on consumer preferences, the impact of changes being made in the organization, including those related to Beauty Reimagined and the PRGP, as well as the potential impact of changes expected to be made as part of the PRGP on suppliers, retailers and others, and challenges relating to successfully outsourcing select services. In our outlook, we have made assumptions relating to these and other internal and external factors and challenges. Declines in net sales and profitability have, and may continue to, adversely impact the goodwill and other intangible assets associated with our brands, as well as long-lived assets, potentially resulting in impairments.
In December 2021, the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development issued "Pillar Two" Global Anti-Base Erosion model rules for countries to enact into domestic law that would establish a 15% global minimum tax applied on a country-by-country basis for multinational companies. In certain countries that have enacted legislation incorporating the global minimum tax, it became effective for the Company at the beginning of fiscal 2025. The estimated tax impact of such legislation has been included in the provision for income taxes for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2025 and was not material. We are continuing to monitor and evaluate the potential impact of newly enacted legislation incorporating the global minimum tax in additional countries.
On July 4, 2025, new U.S tax legislation was enacted. Known as the One Big Beautiful Bill Act, this legislation includes significant provisions, such as the permanent extension of certain expiring provisions of the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act, modifications to the international tax framework and the restoration of certain business tax provisions. The legislation has multiple effective dates, with certain provisions becoming effective in fiscal 2026. We are currently evaluating the impact of the new legislation.
We are also monitoring certain provisions in global tax regulations that may expire during fiscal 2026, which, if not extended, could increase our effective tax rate.
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Restructuring Program Component of the Profit Recovery and Growth Plan
As announced on November 1, 2023, we launched the PRGP to help progressively rebuild our profit margins in fiscal years 2025 and 2026.
The PRGP is focused on rebuilding stronger, more sustainable profitability, supporting sales growth acceleration and increasing speed and agility. The plan is designed to improve gross margin, lower the cost base and reduce overhead expenses, while increasing investments in key consumer-facing activities. Upon completion of this plan, we expect to have improved our gross margin and expense base to drive greater operating leverage for the future.
As a component of the PRGP, on February 5, 2024, we announced a two-year restructuring program. The restructuring program’s main focus included the reorganization and rightsizing of certain areas of our business as well as simplification and acceleration of processes. We committed to this course of action on February 1, 2024.
In connection with the restructuring program, we estimated a net reduction in the range of approximately 1,800 to 3,000 positions globally, which was about 3-5% of our positions including temporary and part-time employees as of June 30, 2023. This reduction took into account the elimination of some positions as well as retraining and redeployment of certain employees in select areas.
We planned to substantially complete specific initiatives under the restructuring program through fiscal 2026. We expected that the restructuring program would result in restructuring and other charges totaling between $500 million and $700 million, before taxes, consisting of employee-related costs, contract terminations, asset write-offs and other costs associated with implementing these initiatives.
After reviewing additional potential initiatives and the progress of previously approved initiatives, on February 3, 2025, we committed to the expansion of the PRGP, including an expansion of the restructuring program.
The expansion of the overall PRGP is focused on three key areas. First, we plan to adopt a more competitive approach to procurement, a key pillar of savings, by further consolidating spending and strategically re-evaluating key supplier relationships. Second, we plan to further improve efficiencies within our supply chain network through a zero-waste approach, aiming to improve demand forecasting and innovation planning to minimize excess inventory and product destruction. Third, we are outsourcing select services to proven global partners.
The expanded component of the restructuring program began during our fiscal 2025 third quarter with all initiatives to be approved by the end of fiscal 2026. Specific initiatives under the expanded component of the restructuring program are expected to be substantially completed by the end of fiscal 2027. The focus of the now expanded restructuring program (now, collectively the “Restructuring Program”) includes (i) reorganization and rightsizing of certain areas and (ii) simplification and acceleration of processes, along with the newly added focus on (i) outsourcing of select services and (ii) evolution of go-to-market footprint and selling models.
In connection with the Restructuring Program, as of June 30, 2025 we estimate a net reduction in the range of approximately 5,800 to 7,000 positions globally, which is about 9-11% of our positions including temporary and part-time employees as of June 30, 2023. This net reduction takes into account the elimination of positions after retraining and redeployment of certain employees in select areas.
We expect that the Restructuring Program will result in restructuring and other charges totaling between $1,200 million and $1,600 million, before taxes, consisting of employee-related costs, asset-related costs, contract terminations and other costs associated with implementing these initiatives, which other than the non-cash charges, are expected to result in future cash expenditures funded from cash provided by operations.
Once fully implemented, we expect the Restructuring Program to yield annual target gross benefits of between $800 million and $1,000 million, before taxes, a portion of which is expected to be reinvested in consumer-facing activities. The net benefits of the PRGP, which includes the Restructuring Program, are expected to enable a return to a double-digit operating margin over the next few years.
Further information about the Restructuring Program Component of the Profit Recovery and Growth Plan, is described in Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 8 – Charges Associated with Restructuring and Other Activities.
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Impairment Analysis
During the fiscal 2025 second quarter, the TOM FORD brand experienced lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels, including in mainland China, Asia travel retail and Hong Kong SAR. Also during the fiscal 2025 second quarter, the Too Faced reporting unit experienced lower-than-expected results in key geographic regions and channels. As a result, we made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to our TOM FORD brand and Too Faced reporting unit. Additionally, there were increases in the weighted average cost of capital for both the TOM FORD brand and Too Faced reporting unit as compared to the prior-year annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2024.
We concluded that the changes in circumstances in the TOM FORD brand and Too Faced reporting unit, along with increases in the weighted average cost of capital, triggered the need for interim impairment reviews of the TOM FORD trademark and the Too Faced trademark and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of Too Faced’s long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, we performed interim impairment tests for the TOM FORD and Too Faced trademarks and Too Faced goodwill as well as a recoverability test for the Too Faced long-lived assets as of December 31, 2024. We concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible assets exceeded their estimated fair values, which were determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method, and recorded an impairment charge of $773 million for TOM FORD and $75 million for Too Faced. We concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets for Too Faced were recoverable. Additionally, as a result of the interim impairment review, the remaining carrying value of Too Faced’s goodwill was not recoverable and we recorded an impairment charge of $13 million, reducing the carrying value to zero. The significant assumptions used in the relief-from-royalty method include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair value of the TOM FORD and Too Faced trademark intangible assets was the weighted average cost of capital, which was 11.5% and 14%, respectively.
Based on our annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2025, we determined that the carrying value of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced trademarks exceeded their estimated fair values. As it relates to Dr.Jart+, a decision was made in the prior year in the reporting unit’s operating plan to exit the travel retail channel. A revised strategy was implemented that included increased direct investment in other areas of the business, including in mainland China, to support the brand’s future growth. However, given the lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions in fiscal 2025, specifically within mainland China and Korea, it was determined that revisions to the internal forecasts were necessary which were finalized and approved in the fiscal 2025 fourth quarter in connection with the brand’s annual planning process, and reflected in the goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2025. The Too Faced reporting unit continued to experience lower-than-expected results in key geographic regions and channels and, as such, it was determined that revisions to the internal forecasts were necessary. These changes in circumstances were also indicators that the carrying amounts of their respective long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable.
For purposes of calculating the estimated fair values of the trademark intangible assets, we utilized the relief-from-royalty method, and recorded an impairment charge of $83 million for Dr.Jart+ and $50 million for Too Faced. We then performed a recoverability analysis of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced long-lived asset groups and, based on the estimated undiscounted cash flows of the asset groups, concluded that the carrying amount of the long-lived assets for Dr.Jart+ were not recoverable, whereas for Too Faced were recoverable. For purposes of calculating the impairment charge for the long-lived assets of Dr.Jart+, the asset group was determined to be the reporting unit. The estimated fair value of the asset group was based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the asset group. As a result, the calculated impairment charge to be allocated to the long-lived assets of Dr.Jart+ was $292 million. We concluded that the carrying value of the Dr.Jart+ customer list intangible asset exceeded its estimated fair value, which was determined utilizing the multi-period excess earnings income approach by discounting the incremental after-tax cash flows over multiple periods. The estimated fair value of all other long-lived assets of Dr. Jart+ exceeded their carrying values. As a result, the $292 million impairment charge was allocated entirely to the Dr.Jart+ customer list intangible asset.
The significant assumptions used in the calculations of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced trademark and Dr.Jart+ customer list impairments include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates for trademarks. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the impairments was the weighted average cost of capital, which was 10.5% for Dr.Jart+ for both the trademark and customer list impairments, and 13.5% for Too Faced.
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A summary of the impairment charges for the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2025 and the remaining trademark, customer list and goodwill carrying values as of June 30, 2025, for the TOM FORD brand and the Too Faced and Dr.Jart+ reporting units, are as follows:
| Impairment Charges(1) | Carrying Value | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | Three Months EndedJune 30, 2025 | Twelve Months EndedJune 30, 2025 | As of June 30, 2025 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Brand/Reporting Unit | Geographic Region | Trademark | Customer List | Goodwill | Trademark | Customer List | Goodwill | Trademark(2) | Customer List | Goodwill | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| TOM FORD | The Americas | $ | — | $ | — | $ | — | $ | 773 | $ | — | $ | — | $ | 1,805 | $ | — | $ | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| Too Faced | The Americas | 50 | — | — | 125 | — | 13 | 62 | 50 | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Dr.Jart+(3) | Asia/Pacific | 83 | 292 | — | 83 | 292 | — | 42 | 189 | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 133 | $ | 292 | $ | — | $ | 981 | $ | 292 | $ | 13 | $ | 1,909 | $ | 239 | $ | — |
(1)The date of the fair value measurement for the TOM FORD trademark intangible asset was December 31, 2024. The dates of the fair value measurement for the Too Faced trademark intangible asset and Too Faced reporting unit were December 31, 2024 and April 1, 2025. The date of the fair value measurement for the Dr. Jart+ trademark intangible asset and asset group was April 1, 2025.
(2)The carrying values of the trademark intangible assets, immediately subsequent to the impairment charges, are equal to their estimated fair values.
(3)The carrying value of the Dr.Jart+ asset group, immediately subsequent to the customer list impairment charge, was equal to its estimated fair value.
The impairment charge related to the TOM FORD trademark intangible asset of $773 million was reflected in the fragrance, makeup and other product categories of $549 million, $170 million and $54 million, respectively. The trademark and goodwill impairment charges related to Too Faced were reflected in the makeup product category. The trademark and customer list impairment charges related to Dr.Jart+ were reflected in the skin care product category. The aggregate trademark and customer list impairments are recorded in the Impairment of other intangible assets line item in the accompanying consolidated statements of (loss) earnings.
Based on our annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2025, the estimated fair value of the Too Faced and Dr.Jart+ trademarks were equal to their carrying value, immediately subsequent to the impairment charges taken in the fiscal 2025 fourth quarter. Additionally, the carrying value of the Dr.Jart+ asset group was equal to its estimated fair value immediately subsequent to the impairment charges that were allocated to the customer list intangible asset.
For the TOM FORD trademark, immediately subsequent to the impairment charges taken in the fiscal 2025 second quarter the estimated fair value of the trademark was equal to its carrying value. Based on our annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2025, the estimated fair value of the TOM FORD trademark exceeded its carrying value of $1,805 million by 22%. This was primarily driven by a decrease of 150 basis points in the weighted average cost of capital as of April 1, 2025 compared to December 31, 2024. Using the December 31, 2024 weighted average cost of capital in the April 1, 2025 annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing would have caused the carrying value of the trademark to approximate its estimated fair value.
Based on our annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2025, the estimated fair values of the DECIEM trademarks exceeded their carrying values of $1,069 million by 3%. If all other assumptions are held constant, a decrease of 3% in the estimated future net sales, inclusive of the terminal value, or an increase of 20 basis points in the weighted average cost of capital, would have caused the carrying values of the trademarks to approximate their estimated fair values.
The key assumptions used to determine the estimated fair value of the reporting units and their respective trademarks and long-lived assets are primarily predicated on the success of future new product launches, the ability to secure strategic price increases, the achievement of distribution expansion plans, and the realization of cost reduction and other efficiency efforts. If such plans do not materialize, or if there are further challenges in the business environments where the reporting units operate, resulting changes in the key assumptions could negatively impact the estimated fair value of the reporting units and their respective trademarks and long-lived assets. This could potentially lead to recognizing additional impairment charges in the future.
For additional information, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
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U.S. Deferred Tax Asset Valuation Allowance
During fiscal 2025, we established a U.S. valuation allowance of $172 million against general foreign tax credit and research and development tax credit carryforwards as it was determined more-likely-than-not that these deferred tax assets would not be realized. This determination was driven by our weighing of relevant evidence including lower U.S. taxable income in fiscal 2025 as compared to recent years, reflecting reduced income from our travel retail business, and the resulting uncertainty about the ability to realize the carryforwards prior to expiration. Our ability to recognize deferred tax assets, inclusive of utilizing net operating loss carryforwards, tax credits, and other carryforwards is dependent on the generation of sufficient taxable income in future periods. Accordingly, there can be no assurance that additional valuation allowances on our deferred tax assets will not be required should our financial performance be negatively impacted in the future. Such valuation allowance could be material.
Talcum Litigation Settlement Agreements
From the end of August 2024 through October 2024, we reached agreements with certain plaintiff law firms (collectively, the “talcum litigation settlement agreements”) for: (i) the resolution of pending cosmetic talcum powder matters handled by those firms as well as (ii) a process for resolving potential future cosmetic talcum powder claims expected to be brought on behalf of plaintiffs by those firms from January 1, 2025 through December 31, 2029, with annual capped amounts per year for each participating law firm. To account for the talcum litigation settlement agreements, we recorded a charge of $159 million during the fiscal 2025 first quarter for the amount agreed to settle the current claims and an estimated amount for potential future claims. Further information about the talcum litigation settlement agreements, is described in Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 17 – Commitments and Contingencies.
Fiscal 2024 as Compared with Fiscal 2023
See Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Results of Operations of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2024 for the fiscal 2024 to fiscal 2023 comparative discussion.
Fiscal 2025 as Compared with Fiscal 2024
NET SALES
| Year Ended June 30, | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2025 | 2024 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 14,326 | $ | 15,608 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (1,282) | (302) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (8) | % | (2) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (8) | % | (1) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales decreased in fiscal 2025, primarily reflecting a decrease in skin care, and to a lesser extent, decreases in makeup and hair care. The decrease in skin care net sales was primarily driven by lower net sales from Estée Lauder and La Mer.
By geographic region, reported net sales decreased across all geographic regions in fiscal 2025, primarily reflecting lower net sales in our travel retail business, and to a lesser extent, in mainland China, North America and Korea.
The fiscal 2025 reported net sales decrease was impacted by approximately $28 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales decreased 8% in fiscal 2025, driven by the decrease from volume of 10%. Partially offsetting this decrease was an increase from pricing of 2%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix.
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Returns associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they are centrally directed and controlled, are not included in internal measures of product category or geographic region performance and result from activities that are deemed a Company-wide initiative to redesign, resize and reorganize select areas of the business. Accordingly, the following discussions of Net sales by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2025 and fiscal 2024 impacts of returns/(return adjustments) associated with restructuring and other activities of approximately $(3) million and $1 million, respectively.
Product Categories
Reported net sales for our product categories for the years ended June 30, 2025 and 2024 were as follows:
| Year Ended June 30, | ||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2025 | 2024 | $ Change | % Change | % Change in Constant Currency(1) | |||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 6,962 | $ | 7,908 | $ | (946) | (12) | % | (12) | % | ||||||||
| Makeup | 4,205 | 4,470 | (265) | (6) | (5) | |||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 2,491 | 2,487 | 4 | — | — | |||||||||||||
| Hair Care | 565 | 629 | (64) | (10) | (10) | |||||||||||||
| Other | 100 | 115 | (15) | (13) | (13) | |||||||||||||
| 14,323 | 15,609 | (1,286) | (8) | (8) | ||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | 3 | (1) | 4 | 100+ | 100+ | |||||||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 14,326 | $ | 15,608 | $ | (1,282) | (8) | % | (8) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Skin Care
Reported skin care net sales decreased $946 million, or 12%, in fiscal 2025, reflecting lower net sales from Estée Lauder and La Mer, combined, of approximately $829 million, primarily driven by declines in our Asia travel retail business.
The decrease in net sales from our Asia travel retail business reflected ongoing subdued sentiment and lower conversion from Chinese consumers, the difficult comparison to the prior year due to our resumption of replenishment orders in the fiscal 2024 third quarter and our strategic decision to reduce our exposure to reseller activity, as well as retailer shifts in strategies toward more profitable duty free business models in both Korea and mainland China, which led to lower replenishment orders.
Also contributing to the decrease in net sales from Estée Lauder was lower net sales in mainland China, reflecting the overall challenging retail environment, including subdued consumer sentiment.
Skin care net sales were impacted by approximately $2 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported skin care net sales decreased 12% in fiscal 2025, driven by the decrease from volume of 13%. Partially offsetting this decrease was an increase from pricing of 1%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix.
Makeup
Reported makeup net sales decreased $265 million, or 6%, in fiscal 2025, reflecting lower net sales primarily from M·A·C, and to a lesser extent, Estée Lauder, Too Faced and Bobbi Brown, combined, of approximately $241 million. The decrease in net sales from M·A·C was primarily driven by lower net sales in the face subcategory and retail softness for the brand, which led to elevated levels of inventory and retailer destocking. Net sales from Estée Lauder decreased, primarily driven by lower net sales in the face subcategory, reflecting the aforementioned challenges in our Asia travel retail business. Net sales from Too Faced decreased, driven by North America, primarily reflecting lower net sales in the lip and eye subcategories. Bobbi Brown net sales decreased, primarily driven by lower net sales in the face subcategory.
Partially offsetting the reported makeup net sales decrease were higher net sales from Clinique across all geographic regions, led by North America, reflecting higher net sales associated with the fiscal 2024 third quarter launch in Amazon's U.S. Premium Beauty store, as well as the success of hero product franchises, including new product launches.
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Makeup net sales were impacted by approximately $20 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported makeup net sales decreased 6% in fiscal 2025, driven by the decrease from volume of 9%. Partially offsetting this decrease was an increase from pricing of 3%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix.
Fragrance
Reported fragrance net sales increased slightly in fiscal 2025, reflecting higher net sales from Le Labo and to a lesser extent, KILIAN PARIS combined, of approximately $87 million, largely offset by lower net sales from Estée Lauder, Clinique, and TOM FORD, combined, of approximately $82 million.
Net sales from Le Labo increased, reflecting growth from hero products, including growth through targeted expanded consumer reach, and new product launches. The increase in net sales from KILIAN PARIS primarily reflected the success of new product launches.
The decrease in net sales from Estée Lauder was primarily driven by lower net sales from the Estée Lauder Beautiful and Estée Lauder Pleasures franchises. Net sales from Clinique decreased, primarily driven by lower net sales from the Clinique Happy franchise line of products. The decrease in net sales from TOM FORD was primarily driven by lower net sales in North America, reflecting softness in the brand's retail sales which led to elevated levels of inventory, resulting in retailer destocking, as well as an unfavorable year-over-year impact of prior-year launches.
Fragrance net sales were impacted by approximately $4 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported fragrance net sales increased slightly in fiscal 2025, driven by an increase from pricing of 6%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix, largely offset by the decrease from volume of 6%.
Hair Care
Reported hair care net sales decreased $64 million, or 10%, in fiscal 2025, driven by lower net sales from Aveda, and to a lesser extent, Bumble and bumble and The Ordinary, combined of approximately $66 million. Net sales from Aveda decreased, primarily reflecting our softness in brick-and-mortar channels and freestanding store closures, partially offset by the impact from its launch in Amazon's U.S. Premium Beauty store during the fiscal 2025 fourth quarter. Net sales from Bumble and bumble decreased, primarily reflecting our softness in the salon and specialty-multi channels, partially offset by higher net sales associated with its fiscal 2024 fourth quarter launch in Amazon's U.S. Premium Beauty store.
Hair care net sales were impacted by approximately $2 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported hair care net sales decreased 10% in fiscal 2025, driven by the decrease from volume of 10%. The impact of pricing was flat year-over-year, due to the favorable impact of strategic pricing actions offset by changes in mix.
Geographic Regions
Reported net sales by geographic region for the years ended June 30, 2025 and 2024 were as follows:
| Year Ended June 30, | ||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2025 | 2024 | $ Change | % Change | % Change in Constant Currency(1) | |||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 4,411 | $ | 4,581 | $ | (170) | (4) | % | (3) | % | ||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 5,375 | 6,140 | (765) | (12) | (13) | |||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 4,537 | 4,888 | (351) | (7) | (7) | |||||||||||||
| 14,323 | 15,609 | (1,286) | (8) | (8) | ||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | 3 | (1) | 4 | 100+ | 100+ | |||||||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 14,326 | $ | 15,608 | $ | (1,282) | (8) | % | (8) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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Reported net sales decreased in fiscal 2025 across all geographic regions, primarily driven by lower net sales in our travel retail business, and to a lesser extent, in mainland China, North America and Korea, combined, of approximately $1,150 million.
The decrease in net sales from our travel retail business, which is reported in the Europe, the Middle East & Africa geographic region, was primarily driven by Asia travel retail, reflecting ongoing subdued sentiment and lower conversion from Chinese consumers, the difficult comparison to the prior year due to our resumption of replenishment orders in the second half of fiscal 2024 and our strategic decision to reduce our exposure to reseller activity, as well as retailer shifts in strategies toward more profitable duty free business models in both Korea and mainland China, which led to lower replenishment orders.
The decrease in net sales in mainland China reflected the overall challenging retail environment, including subdued consumer sentiment.
The decrease in net sales in North America reflected ongoing retail softness for some brands, and pressure from subdued consumer confidence and sentiment in the second half of fiscal 2025, which led to elevated inventory levels and destocking at certain retailers, as well as the timing of shipments, which further pressured net sales compared to the prior year. Partially offsetting the net sales decline for North America in fiscal 2025 was the impact from the launch of eleven brands in Amazon's U.S. Premium Beauty store as of June 2025 compared to three brands as of June 2024, as well as the launch of three brands in the Amazon.ca (Canada) Premium Beauty store in fiscal 2025.
The net sales decline in Korea reflects the impact of political and social unrest, which reduced retail traffic and dampened retail sales, as well as the exit of Dr.Jart+ from the travel retail channel in Korea during the fiscal 2025 second quarter.
Reported net sales in The Americas decreased 4% in fiscal 2025, driven by the decrease from volume of 8% and the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 1%. These decreases were partially offset by an increase from pricing of 6%, due to the favorable impact of strategic pricing actions and changes in mix.
Reported net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa decreased 12% in fiscal 2025, driven by the decrease from volume of 10% and a decrease from pricing of 3%. The decrease from pricing is due to changes in mix, partially offset by the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions.
Reported net sales in Asia/Pacific decreased 7% in fiscal 2025, driven by the decrease from volume of 12%. Partially offsetting this decrease was an increase from pricing of 5%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix.
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GROSS MARGIN
Gross margin in fiscal 2025 increased to 74.0% as compared with 71.7% in fiscal 2024.
| Fiscal 2025 vs. Fiscal 2024Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points | |
|---|---|
| As Reported: | |
| Mix of business | (30) |
| Obsolescence charges | 125 |
| Manufacturing costs and other | 145 |
| Foreign exchange transactions | (10) |
| Returns and charges associated with restructuring and other activities | — |
| As Reported Gross Margin Basis Point Variance | 230 |
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure Adjustments: | |
| Returns and charges associated with restructuring and other activities | — |
| Non-GAAP Gross Margin Basis Point Variance | 230 |
The increase in gross margin in fiscal 2025 includes net benefits from the PRGP which drove overall favorability year-over-year, including the favorability within manufacturing costs and other and obsolescence charges. The impact year-over-year from manufacturing costs and other reflects the favorable impact of cost efficiencies within our global supply chain network, partially offset by the impact of inflation on our costs. Obsolescence charges decreased year-over-year, due to a reduction in excess inventory.
Partially offsetting the increase in gross margin was the unfavorable impact from our mix of business, reflecting the impact of lower net sales, partially offset by the benefit from net strategic pricing, including from the PRGP.
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OPERATING EXPENSES
Operating expenses as a percentage of net sales in fiscal 2025 increased to 79.4% as compared with 65.4% in fiscal 2024.
| Fiscal 2025 vs. Fiscal 2024Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points | |
|---|---|
| As Reported: | |
| General and administrative expenses | (90) |
| Advertising, marketing, promotion and product development(1) | (180) |
| Selling | (140) |
| Shipping | 10 |
| Store operating costs | (50) |
| Stock-based compensation | — |
| Foreign exchange transactions | — |
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (260) |
| Goodwill and other intangible asset impairments | (590) |
| Talcum litigation settlement agreements | (110) |
| Changes in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options | 10 |
| As Reported Operating Expense Margin Basis Point Variance | (1,400) |
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure Adjustments: | |
| Impact of restructuring and other activities | 260 |
| Goodwill and other intangible asset impairments | 590 |
| Talcum litigation settlement agreements | 110 |
| Changes in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options | (10) |
| Non-GAAP Operating Expense Margin Basis Point Variance | (450) |
(1)Referred to as "advertising and promotional" within the Product Category and Geographic Region Operating Results disclosures below.
The decrease in net sales year-over-year is the primary driver of the increase in operating expense margin in fiscal 2025. This impact offset the expense reductions realized through our overall disciplined expense management across the business as well as initiatives as part of the PRGP. Partially offsetting these expense reductions were increased investments in consumer facing areas of the business to drive sales, including advertising, selling, promotion and store operating expenses. Additionally, general and administrative expenses declined reflecting benefits from the above noted disciplined expense management, however also reflected the year-over-year unfavorable impact of a change in policy related to local government subsidies in China.
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OPERATING RESULTS
| Year Ended June 30, | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2025 | 2024 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating (loss) income | $ | (785) | $ | 970 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (1,755) | (539) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (100+)% | (36) | % | ||||
| Operating Margin | (5.5) | % | 6.2 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating (loss) income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill and other intangible asset impairments, talcum litigation settlement agreements and the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax | (28) | % | (13) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
The reported operating margin for fiscal 2025 decreased from the prior year, driven by the decrease in net sales as well as an increase in our operating expense margin, reflecting the unfavorable year-over-year impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments relating to TOM FORD, Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced, combined, of $1,286 million in fiscal 2025 compared with goodwill and other intangible asset impairments relating to Dr.Jart+ of $471 million in fiscal 2024, partially offset by an increase in gross margin, as discussed above.
Charges associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they are centrally directed and controlled, are not included in internal measures of product category or geographic region performance and result from activities that are deemed Company-wide initiatives to redesign, resize and reorganize select areas of the business. Accordingly, the following discussions of Operating (loss) income by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2025 and 2024 impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities of $486 million, or approximately 3% of net sales and $124 million, or approximately 1% of net sales, respectively.
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Product Categories
Reported Operating (loss) income for our product categories for the years ended June 30, 2025 and 2024 were as follows:
| Year Ended June 30, | |||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2025 | 2024 | $ Change | % Change (As reported) | % Change (Non-GAAP)(1) | Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1) | |||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 574 | $ | 735 | $ | (161) | (22) | % | (23) | % | Adjusted for the impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options. | ||||||||
| Makeup | (441) | 93 | (534) | (100+) | (72) | Adjusted for the impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments and talcum litigation settlement agreements. | |||||||||||||
| Fragrance | (378) | 265 | (643) | (100+) | (35) | Adjusted for the impact of other intangible asset impairments. | |||||||||||||
| Hair Care | (41) | (52) | 11 | 21 | 21 | ||||||||||||||
| Other | (13) | 53 | (66) | (100+) | (23) | Adjusted for the impact of other intangible asset impairments. | |||||||||||||
| (299) | 1,094 | (1,393) | (100+) | (28) | |||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (486) | (124) | (362) | (100+) | (100+) | ||||||||||||||
| Operating (loss) income | $ | (785) | $ | 970 | $ | (1,755) | (100+)% | (100+)% |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Skin Care
Reported skin care operating income decreased $161 million, or 22% in fiscal 2025, reflecting lower operating income from Estée Lauder and La Mer, combined, of approximately $575 million. Operating income from Estée Lauder decreased, primarily driven by a decrease in net sales, partially offset by lower cost of sales and disciplined advertising and promotional expense management. The decrease in operating income from La Mer was primarily driven by a decrease in net sales, partially offset by lower cost of sales.
Partially offsetting the decrease in reported skin care operating income in fiscal 2025 was lower cost of sales for the product category overall, driven by the aforementioned impacts disclosed in the consolidated gross margin discussion above, as well as the favorable year-over-year impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairment charges related to Dr.Jart+ of $96 million.
Makeup
Reported makeup operating results decreased $534 million, or over 100%, in fiscal 2025, primarily driven by other intangible asset impairment charges in fiscal 2025 relating to TOM FORD and Too Faced, combined, of $295 million and a goodwill impairment charge in fiscal 2025 relating to Too Faced of $13 million, as well as the charge in the fiscal 2025 first quarter associated with the talcum litigation settlement agreements of $159 million. Also contributing to the reported makeup operating results decrease in fiscal 2025 was a decrease in operating income from Estée Lauder and M·A·C, combined, of approximately $124 million. The decrease in operating income from Estée Lauder was primarily driven by lower net sales and an increase in advertising and promotional activities to support new product launches, partially offset by lower cost of sales. Operating income from M·A·C decreased, primarily driven by a decrease in net sales, partially offset by lower cost of sales and disciplined advertising and promotional expense management. Partially offsetting the decrease in reported makeup operating results in fiscal 2025 was lower cost of sales for the product category overall, driven by the aforementioned impacts disclosed in the consolidated gross margin discussion above.
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Fragrance
Reported fragrance operating results decreased $643 million, or over 100%, in fiscal 2025, primarily driven by lower operating results from TOM FORD, and to a lesser extent, a decrease in operating income from Jo Malone London, combined, of approximately $648 million. The decrease in operating results from TOM FORD was primarily driven by the fiscal 2025 other intangible asset impairment charge of $549 million, and to a lesser extent, a decline in net sales, as well as an increase in advertising and promotional activities and an increase in selling expenses to support sales, partially offset by lower cost of sales. The decrease in operating income from Jo Malone London was primarily driven by higher selling expenses, including higher staffing costs to support key campaigns and targeted expanded consumer reach, higher advertising and promotional activities to support key campaigns and higher store operating costs to support targeted expanded consumer reach, partially offset by an increase in net sales. Partially offsetting the decline in fragrance operating results in fiscal 2025 was lower cost of sales for the product category overall, driven by the aforementioned impacts disclosed in the consolidated gross margin discussion above.
Hair Care
Reported hair care operating loss decreased $11 million or 21% in fiscal 2025, driven by lower operating expenses and cost of sales, partially offset by lower net sales.
Geographic Regions
| Year Ended June 30, | ||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2025 | 2024 | $ Change | % Change(As Reported) | % Change (Non-GAAP)(1) | Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1) | ||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | (918) | $ | 34 | $ | (952) | (100+)% | 100+% | Adjusted for the impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments, talcum litigation settlement agreements and change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options | |||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 610 | 836 | (226) | (27) | (28) | |||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 9 | 224 | (215) | (96) | (45) | Adjusted for the impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments | ||||||||||||
| (299) | 1,094 | (1,393) | (100+) | (28) | ||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (486) | (124) | (362) | (100+) | (100+) | |||||||||||||
| Operating (loss) income | $ | (785) | $ | 970 | $ | (1,755) | (100+)% | (100+)% |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
The decrease in reported operating results in fiscal 2025 was primarily driven by lower operating results in North America, and to a lesser extent, a decrease in operating income in mainland China and in our travel retail business, combined, of approximately $1,273 million. Operating income attributable to the travel retail sales included in Europe, the Middle East & Africa is included in that region and in The Americas. This is primarily due to certain capabilities related to the travel retail business that are centralized in The Americas region and, as such, a component of the operating income generated by this business is transferred to The Americas through an intercompany royalty.
The decrease in operating results in North America was primarily driven by other intangible asset impairment charges in fiscal 2025 relating to TOM FORD and Too Faced of $898 million and a goodwill impairment charge in fiscal 2025 relating to Too Faced of $13 million, the unfavorable year-over-year impact relating to net intercompany activity, including $334 million of lower intercompany royalty income due to the decline in income from our global travel retail business, the charge in the fiscal 2025 first quarter associated with the talcum litigation settlement agreements of $159 million, and a decrease in net sales, partially offset by lower cost of sales.
The decrease in operating income in mainland China was primarily driven by a decrease in net sales and the year-over-year unfavorable impact of a change in policy related to local government subsidies in China.
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The decrease in operating income from our travel retail business, which is reported in Europe, the Middle East & Africa, was primarily driven by a decrease in net sales, partially offset by a favorable year-over-year impact of net intercompany activity, including $334 million of lower intercompany royalty expense due to the decline in income, lower cost of sales, disciplined advertising and promotional expense management and lower shipping costs reflecting the decrease in net sales.
INTEREST AND INVESTMENT INCOME
| Year Ended June 30, | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2025 | 2024 | |||||
| Interest expense | $ | 357 | $ | 378 | |||
| Interest income and investment income, net | $ | 114 | $ | 167 |
Interest expense decreased in fiscal 2025, primarily reflecting a lower average debt balance compared to the prior year. Interest income and investment income, net decreased in fiscal 2025, primarily reflecting a lower average cash balance and lower interest rates compared to the prior year.
PROVISION FOR INCOME TAXES
The provision for income taxes represents U.S. federal, foreign, state and local income taxes. The effective rate differs from the federal statutory rate primarily due to the effect of state and local income taxes, the tax impact of stock-based compensation, the taxation of foreign income and income tax reserve adjustments, which represent changes in our net liability for unrecognized tax benefits including tax settlements and lapses of the applicable statutes of limitations, as well as changes to valuation allowance based on our assessment of the realizability of deferred tax assets. Our effective tax rate will change from year to year based on recurring and non-recurring factors including the geographical mix of earnings, enacted tax legislation, state and local income taxes, tax reserve adjustments, the tax impact of stock-based compensation, changes to valuation allowance, the interaction of various global tax strategies and the impact from certain acquisitions.
| Year Ended June 30, | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2025 | 2024 | |||||
| (Loss) earnings before income taxes: | $ | (1,040) | $ | 772 | |||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes | (8.9) | % | 47.0 | % | |||
| Basis-point change from prior year | (5,590) | 1,930 | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes | 38.8 | % | 31.0 | % |
(1)Excludes the net impact on the effective tax rates of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill and other intangible asset impairments, U.S. deferred tax asset valuation allowance adjustment and talcum litigation settlement agreements for fiscal 2025 and charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill and other intangible asset impairments and changes in the fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax for fiscal 2024. See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
The effective tax rate for fiscal 2025 decreased approximately 5,590 basis points. The decrease was primarily attributable to the higher effective tax rate on income from our foreign operations of approximately 2,630 basis points, due to our geographical mix of earnings for fiscal 2025, establishment of a valuation allowance against general foreign tax credit and research and development tax credit carryforwards of approximately 1,651 basis points, the impact of nondeductible goodwill impairment charges associated with the Too Faced reporting unit of approximately 800 basis points and the unfavorable impact associated with previously issued stock-based compensation of approximately 640 basis points. The loss before income taxes due to the goodwill and other intangible asset impairment charges, as well as the charges associated with restructuring and other activities and talcum litigation settlement agreements increased the impact of these tax adjustments.
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NET (LOSS) EARNINGS ATTRIBUTABLE TO THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC.
| Year Ended June 30, | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions, except per share data) | 2025 | 2024 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net (loss) earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | $ | (1,133) | $ | 390 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (1,523) | (616) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (100+)% | (61) | % | ||||
| Diluted net (loss) earnings per common share | $ | (3.15) | $ | 1.08 | |||
| % Change from prior year | (100+)% | (61) | % | ||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in diluted net (loss) earnings per common share from the prior year adjusting for the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill and other intangible asset impairments, U.S. deferred tax asset valuation allowance adjustment, talcum litigation settlement agreements and the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax. | (42) | % | (25) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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RECONCILIATIONS OF NON-GAAP FINANCIAL MEASURES
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period, or do not reflect the Company’s underlying ongoing business, provides transparency for such items and helps investors and others compare and analyze our operating performance from period to period. In the future, we expect to incur charges or adjustments similar in nature to those presented below; however, the impact to the Company’s results in a given period may be highly variable and difficult to predict. Our non-GAAP financial measures may not be comparable to similarly titled measures used by, or determined in a manner consistent with, other companies. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. The following tables present Net sales, Operating (loss) income, Provision for income taxes and Diluted net (loss) earnings per common share adjusted to exclude the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities; goodwill and other intangible asset impairments; U.S. deferred tax asset valuation allowance adjustment; talcum litigation settlement agreements; the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax; and the effects of foreign currency translation. The following tables provide reconciliations between these non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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| Year Ended June 30, | % Change | % Change in Constant Currency | ||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions, except per share data) | 2025 | 2024 | Variance | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales, as reported | $ | 14,326 | $ | 15,608 | $ | (1,282) | (8) | % | (8) | % | ||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (3) | 1 | (4) | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales, as adjusted | $ | 14,323 | $ | 15,609 | $ | (1,286) | (8) | % | (8) | % | ||||||||
| Operating (loss) income, as reported | $ | (785) | $ | 970 | $ | (1,755) | (100+)% | (100+)% | ||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | 486 | 124 | 362 | |||||||||||||||
| Goodwill impairment | 13 | 291 | (278) | |||||||||||||||
| Impairment of other intangible assets | 1,273 | 180 | 1,093 | |||||||||||||||
| Talcum litigation settlement agreements | 159 | — | 159 | |||||||||||||||
| Change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax | — | 23 | (23) | |||||||||||||||
| Operating income, as adjusted | $ | 1,146 | $ | 1,588 | $ | (442) | (28) | % | (27) | % | ||||||||
| Provision for income taxes, as reported | $ | 93 | $ | 363 | $ | (270) | (74) | % | (73) | % | ||||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes, as reported | (8.9) | % | 47.0 | % | ||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | 105 | 27 | 78 | |||||||||||||||
| Goodwill and other intangible asset impairments | 285 | 41 | 244 | |||||||||||||||
| U.S. deferred tax asset valuation allowance adjustment | (172) | — | (172) | |||||||||||||||
| Talcum litigation settlement agreements | 35 | — | 35 | |||||||||||||||
| Provision for income taxes, as adjusted | $ | 346 | $ | 431 | $ | (85) | (20) | % | (19) | % | ||||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes, as adjusted | 38.8 | % | 31.0 | % | ||||||||||||||
| Diluted net (loss) earnings per common share, as reported | $ | (3.15) | $ | 1.08 | $ | (4.23) | (100+)% | (100+)% | ||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | 1.06 | .27 | .79 | |||||||||||||||
| Goodwill and other intangible asset impairments | 2.78 | 1.19 | 1.59 | |||||||||||||||
| U.S. deferred tax asset valuation allowance adjustment | .48 | — | .48 | |||||||||||||||
| Talcum litigation settlement agreements | .34 | — | .34 | |||||||||||||||
| Change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax (less portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest) | — | .05 | (.05) | |||||||||||||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share, as adjusted | $ | 1.51 | $ | 2.59 | $ | (1.08) | (42) | % | (41) | % |
As diluted net earnings per common share, as adjusted, is used as a measure of the Company’s performance, we consider the impact of current and deferred income taxes when calculating the per-share impact of each of the reconciling items.
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The following table reconciles the change in net sales by product category and geographic region, as reported, to the change in net sales excluding the effects of foreign currency translation:
| As Reported | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year Ended June 30, | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | 2025 | 2024 | Variance | Impact of foreign currency translation | Variance, in constant currency | % Change, as reported | % Change, in constant currency | |||||||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 6,962 | $ | 7,908 | $ | (946) | $ | 2 | $ | (944) | (12) | % | (12) | % | ||||||||||||
| Makeup | 4,205 | 4,470 | (265) | 20 | (245) | (6) | (5) | |||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 2,491 | 2,487 | 4 | 4 | 8 | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | 565 | 629 | (64) | 2 | (62) | (10) | (10) | |||||||||||||||||||
| Other | 100 | 115 | (15) | — | (15) | (13) | (13) | |||||||||||||||||||
| 14,323 | 15,609 | (1,286) | 28 | (1,258) | (8) | (8) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | 3 | (1) | 4 | — | 4 | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 14,326 | $ | 15,608 | $ | (1,282) | $ | 28 | $ | (1,254) | (8) | % | (8) | % | ||||||||||||
| By Geographic Region: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 4,411 | $ | 4,581 | $ | (170) | $ | 50 | $ | (120) | (4) | % | (3) | % | ||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 5,375 | 6,140 | (765) | (27) | (792) | (12) | (13) | |||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 4,537 | 4,888 | (351) | 5 | (346) | (7) | (7) | |||||||||||||||||||
| 14,323 | 15,609 | (1,286) | 28 | (1,258) | (8) | (8) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | 3 | (1) | 4 | — | 4 | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 14,326 | $ | 15,608 | $ | (1,282) | $ | 28 | $ | (1,254) | (8) | % | (8) | % |
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The following table reconciles the change in operating results by product category and geographic region, as reported, to the change in operating results excluding the impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments, talcum litigation settlement agreements and the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax:
| As Reported | Add:Changes ingoodwill and other intangible asset impairments | Add: Talcum litigation settlement agreements | Add: Change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax | Variance, as adjusted | % Change, as reported | % Change, as adjusted | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year Ended June 30, | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | 2025 | 2024 | Variance | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 574 | $ | 735 | $ | (161) | $ | (96) | $ | — | $ | (23) | $ | (280) | (22)% | (23)% | ||||||||||||||||
| Makeup | (441) | 93 | (534) | 308 | 159 | — | (67) | (100+) | (72) | |||||||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | (378) | 265 | (643) | 549 | — | — | (94) | (100+) | (35) | |||||||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | (41) | (52) | 11 | — | — | — | 11 | 21 | 21 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
| Other | (13) | 53 | (66) | 54 | — | — | (12) | (100+) | (23) | |||||||||||||||||||||||
| (299) | 1,094 | $ | (1,393) | $ | 815 | $ | 159 | $ | (23) | $ | (442) | (100+)% | (28)% | |||||||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (486) | (124) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | (785) | $ | 970 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| By Geographic Region: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | (918) | $ | 34 | $ | (952) | $ | 911 | $ | 159 | $ | (14) | $ | 104 | (100+)% | 100+% | ||||||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 610 | 836 | (226) | — | (9) | (235) | (27) | (28) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 9 | 224 | (215) | (96) | — | — | (311) | (96) | (45) | |||||||||||||||||||||||
| (299) | 1,094 | $ | (1,393) | $ | 815 | $ | 159 | $ | (23) | $ | (442) | (100+)% | (28)% | |||||||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (486) | (124) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | (785) | $ | 970 |
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FINANCIAL CONDITION
LIQUIDITY AND CAPITAL RESOURCES
Overview
Our principal sources of funds historically have been cash flows from operations, borrowings pursuant to our commercial paper program, borrowings from the issuance of long-term debt and committed and uncommitted credit lines provided by banks and other lenders in the United States and abroad. At June 30, 2025, we had cash and cash equivalents of $2,921 million compared with $3,395 million at June 30, 2024. Our cash and cash equivalents are maintained at a number of financial institutions. To mitigate the risk of uninsured balances, we select financial institutions based on their credit ratings and financial strength, and we perform ongoing evaluations of these institutions to limit our concentration risk exposure.
Based on past performance and current expectations, we believe that cash on hand, cash generated from operations, available credit lines and access to credit markets will be adequate to support seasonal working capital needs, currently planned business operations, information technology enhancements, capital expenditures, acquisitions, dividends, stock repurchases, restructuring initiatives, commitments and other contractual obligations on both a near-term and long-term basis.
The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act resulted in the Transition Tax on unrepatriated earnings of our foreign subsidiaries and changed the tax law in ways that present opportunities to repatriate cash without additional U.S. federal income tax. We continue to analyze the indefinite reinvestment assertion on our remaining applicable foreign earnings. We do not believe that continuing to reinvest these remaining applicable foreign earnings impairs our ability to meet our domestic debt or working capital obligations. If these reinvested earnings were repatriated into the United States as dividends, we would be subject to state income taxes and applicable foreign taxes in certain jurisdictions.
Inflation impacted our operating results during fiscal 2025 and we expect it to continue. Generally, we have plans to introduce new products at higher prices, increase prices and implement other operating efficiencies which we expect to offset some of these cost increases.
Credit Ratings
Changes in our credit ratings will likely result in changes in our borrowing costs. Our credit ratings also impact the cost of our revolving credit facilities. Downgrades in our credit ratings may reduce our ability to issue commercial paper and/or long-term debt and would likely increase the relative costs of borrowing. A credit rating is not a recommendation to buy, sell, or hold securities, is subject to revision or withdrawal at any time by the assigning rating organization, and should be evaluated independently of any other rating. As of August 13, 2025, our long-term debt is rated A- with a negative outlook by Standard & Poor’s and A3 with a negative outlook by Moody’s.
Debt and Access to Liquidity
Total debt as a percent of total capitalization was 65% and 59% at June 30, 2025 and 2024, respectively.
For further information regarding our current and long-term debt and available financing, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Debt.
Cash Flows
| Year Ended June 30, | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2025 | 2024 | |||||
| Net cash provided by operating activities | $ | 1,272 | $ | 2,360 | |||
| Net cash used for investing activities | $ | (623) | $ | (960) | |||
| Net cash used for financing activities | $ | (1,144) | $ | (2,035) |
The change in net cash flows provided by operating activities was primarily driven by lower net earnings in fiscal 2025, excluding non-cash items, and an unfavorable change in operating assets and liabilities variances, including the impact from the significant reduction in inventory in the prior year, as compared to the reduction in inventory in the current year.
The change in net cash flows used for investing activities was primarily driven by a favorable year-over-year impact from capital expenditure payments made relating to the manufacturing facility in Japan, near Tokyo, in the prior year.
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The change in net cash flows used for financing activities primarily reflected the favorable year-over-year impacts of repayments of commercial paper in the prior year, payments associated with the purchase of the remaining interest in DECIEM during fiscal 2024 and a decrease in dividends paid to stockholders in the current year, partially offset by the unfavorable year-over-year impact of the repayment of long-term debt in the current year and issuance of long-term debt in the prior year.
See Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Financial Condition of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2024 for the fiscal 2024 to fiscal 2023 comparative discussions.
Dividends
For a summary of quarterly cash dividends declared per share on our Class A and Class B Common Stock during the year ended June 30, 2025 and through August 13, 2025, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 18 – Common Stock.
Pension and Post-retirement Plan Funding
Several factors influence the annual funding requirements for our pension plans. For our domestic trust-based noncontributory qualified defined benefit pension plan (“U.S. Qualified Plan”), we seek to maintain appropriate funded percentages. For any future contributions to the U.S. Qualified Plan, we would seek to contribute an amount or amounts that would not be less than the minimum required by the Employee Retirement Income Security Act of 1974, as amended, (“ERISA”) and subsequent pension legislation, and would not be more than the maximum amount deductible for income tax purposes. For each international plan, our funding policies are determined by local laws and regulations. In addition, amounts necessary to fund future obligations under these plans could vary depending on estimated assumptions. The effect of our pension plan funding on future operating results will depend on economic conditions, employee demographics, mortality rates, the number of participants electing to take lump-sum distributions, investment performance and funding decisions.
For the U.S. Qualified Plan, we maintain an investment strategy of matching the duration of a substantial portion of the plan assets with the duration of the underlying plan liabilities. This strategy assists us in maintaining our overall funded ratio. For fiscal 2025 and 2024, we met or exceeded all contribution requirements under ERISA regulations for the U.S. Qualified Plan.
The following table summarizes actual and expected benefit payments and contributions for our other pension and post-retirement plans:
| Year Ended June 30, | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | Expected 2026 | 2025 | 2024 | ||||||||
| Non-qualified domestic noncontributory pension plan benefit payments | $ | 30 | $ | 9 | $ | 8 | |||||
| International defined benefit pension plan contributions | $ | 32 | $ | 35 | $ | 24 | |||||
| Post-retirement plan benefit payments | $ | 9 | $ | 14 | $ | 13 |
Commitments and Contingencies
For a discussion of our commitments and contingencies, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 17 – Commitments and Contingencies.
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Contractual Obligations
For a discussion of our contractual obligations, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 17 – Commitments and Contingencies (Contractual Obligations).
Derivative Financial Instruments and Hedging Activities
For a discussion of our derivative financial instruments and hedging activities, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 13 – Derivative Financial Instruments.
Foreign Exchange Risk Management
For a discussion of foreign exchange risk management, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 13 – Derivative Financial Instruments (Fair value hedges, Cash Flow Hedges, Net Investment Hedges).
Credit Risk
For a discussion of credit risk, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 13 – Derivative Financial Instruments (Credit Risk).
Market Risk
We address certain financial exposures through a controlled program of market risk management that includes the use of foreign currency forward contracts to reduce the effects of fluctuating foreign currency exchange rates and to mitigate the change in fair value of specific assets and liabilities on the balance sheet, anticipated transactions and receivables and payables and the net investment in certain foreign operations. To perform a sensitivity analysis of our foreign currency forward contracts, we assess the change in fair values from the impact of hypothetical changes in foreign currency exchange rates. A hypothetical 10% weakening of the U.S. dollar against the foreign exchange rates for the currencies in our portfolio would have resulted in a net decrease in the fair value of our portfolio of approximately $223 million and $371 million as of June 30, 2025 and 2024, respectively. This potential change does not consider our underlying foreign currency exposures.
We also enter into cross-currency swap contracts to hedge the impact of foreign currency changes on certain intercompany foreign currency denominated debt and to hedge a portion of the net investment in certain foreign operations. A hypothetical 10% weakening of the U.S. dollar against the foreign exchange rates for the currencies in our cross-currency swap contracts would have resulted in a net decrease in the fair value of our cross-currency swap contracts of approximately $85 million and $49 million as of June 30, 2025 and 2024, respectively.
In addition, we enter into interest rate derivatives to manage the effects of interest rate movements on our funded indebtedness, including future debt issuances. Based on a hypothetical 100 basis point increase in interest rates, the estimated fair value of our interest rate derivatives would decrease by approximately $43 million and $48 million as of June 30, 2025 and 2024, respectively.
Our sensitivity analysis represents an estimate of reasonably possible net losses that would be recognized on our portfolio of derivative financial instruments assuming hypothetical movements in future market rates and is not necessarily indicative of actual results, which may or may not occur. It does not represent the maximum possible loss or any expected loss that may occur, since actual future gains and losses will differ from those estimated, based upon actual fluctuations in market rates, operating exposures, and the timing thereof, and changes in our portfolio of derivative financial instruments during the year. We believe, however, that any such loss incurred would be offset by the effects of market rate movements on the respective underlying transactions for which the derivative financial instrument was intended.
OFF-BALANCE SHEET ARRANGEMENTS
We do not maintain any off-balance sheet arrangements, transactions, obligations or other relationships with unconsolidated entities that would be expected to have a material current or future effect upon our financial condition or results of operations.
RECENTLY ISSUED ACCOUNTING STANDARDS
Refer to Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies for discussion regarding the impact of accounting standards that were recently issued but not yet effective, on our consolidated financial statements.
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CRITICAL ACCOUNTING POLICIES AND ESTIMATES
The discussion and analysis of our financial condition at June 30, 2025 and our results of operations for the three fiscal years ended June 30, 2025 are based upon our consolidated financial statements, which have been prepared in conformity with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles (“U.S. GAAP”). The preparation of these financial statements requires us to make estimates and assumptions that affect the amounts of assets, liabilities, revenues and expenses reported in those financial statements. These estimates and assumptions can be subjective and complex and, consequently, actual results could differ from those estimates. We consider accounting estimates to be critical if the accounting estimate both (i) involves a significant level of estimation uncertainty, and (ii) has had or is reasonably likely to have a material impact on the Company's financial condition or results of operations. Our critical accounting policies relate to Goodwill and Other Indefinite-lived Intangible Assets – Impairment Assessment, Dr.Jart+ Other Intangible Asset – Impairment and Income Taxes.
Our management has discussed the selection of critical accounting policies and the effect of estimates with the Audit Committee of our Board of Directors.
Goodwill and Other Indefinite-lived Intangible Assets – Impairment Assessment and Dr.Jart+ Other Intangible Asset – Impairment
Goodwill is calculated as the excess of the cost of purchased businesses over the estimated fair value of their underlying net assets. Other indefinite-lived intangible assets principally consist of trademarks. Goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets are not amortized.
When testing goodwill for impairment, we have the option of first performing a qualitative assessment to determine whether it is more-likely-than-not that the estimated fair value of a reporting unit is less than its carrying amount as a basis for determining whether it is necessary to perform a quantitative goodwill impairment test. The quantitative impairment test for goodwill encompasses calculating the estimated fair value of a reporting unit and comparing the estimated fair value to its carrying value. If the carrying value exceeds the estimated fair value, an impairment charge is recorded, up to the total amount of goodwill allocated to that reporting unit.
When testing other indefinite-lived intangible assets for impairment, we also have the option of first performing a qualitative assessment to determine whether it is more-likely-than-not that the other indefinite-lived intangible asset is impaired as a basis for determining whether it is necessary to perform a quantitative test. The quantitative impairment test for other indefinite-lived intangible assets encompasses calculating the estimated fair value of an other indefinite-lived intangible asset and comparing the estimated fair value to its carrying value. If the carrying value exceeds the estimated fair value, an impairment charge is recorded.
When events or changes in circumstances indicate that the carrying amount of long-lived assets may not be recoverable, a recoverability test is performed comparing projected undiscounted cash flows from the use and eventual disposition of an asset or asset group to its carrying value. If the projected undiscounted cash flows are less than the carrying value, then an impairment charge would be measured and recorded for the excess of the carrying value over the estimated fair value.
For fiscal 2025 and 2024, we elected to perform the qualitative assessment for the goodwill in certain of our reporting units and other indefinite-lived intangible assets. This qualitative assessment included the review of certain macroeconomic factors and entity-specific qualitative factors to determine if it was more-likely-than-not that the estimated fair values of the reporting units and other indefinite-lived intangible assets were below their carrying values. We considered macroeconomic factors including global economic growth, general macroeconomic trends for the markets in which the reporting units operate and the intangible assets are employed, and the growth of the global prestige beauty industry. In addition to these macroeconomic factors, among other things, we considered the reporting units’ current results and forecasts, any changes in the nature of the business, any significant legal, regulatory, contractual, political or other business climate factors, changes in the industry/competitive environment, changes in the composition or carrying amount of net assets and the Company's intention to sell or dispose of a reporting unit or cease the use of a trademark.
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For fiscal 2025 and 2024, a quantitative assessment was performed for the goodwill in certain of our reporting units and other indefinite-lived intangible assets. We engaged third-party valuation specialists and used industry accepted valuation models and criteria that were reviewed and approved by various levels of management. To determine the estimated fair value of the reporting units, we used an equal weighting of the income and market approaches. Under the income approach, we determined the estimated fair value using a discounted cash flow method, projecting future cash flows of each reporting unit, as well as a terminal value, and discounting such cash flows at a rate of return that reflected the relative risk of the cash flows. Under the market approach, we utilized market multiples from publicly traded companies with similar operating and investment characteristics as the reporting unit. The significant assumptions used in these two approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal value, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and comparable market multiples for the reporting unit. To determine the estimated fair value of other indefinite-lived intangible assets, we used an income approach, specifically the relief-from-royalty method. This method assumes that, in lieu of ownership, a third party would be willing to pay a royalty in order to obtain the rights to use the comparable asset. The significant assumptions used in this approach include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal value, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and a royalty rate.
For fiscal 2025, changes in circumstances at the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit indicated that the carrying amounts of its long-lived assets, including the customer list, were not recoverable. The Company first determines the asset group which is defined as the lowest level for which identifiable cash flows are largely independent of the cash flows of other groups of assets and liabilities. The asset group was determined to be at the reporting unit level. Based on the estimated undiscounted cash flows of the asset group, the carrying amount of the long-lived assets for Dr.Jart+ were not recoverable. To calculate the impairment, the estimated fair value of the asset group was determined in the same manner as the quantitative assessment performed for goodwill described above, using an equal weighting of the income and market approaches. Estimated fair values for each of the assets within the asset group were also determined. The calculated impairment loss for the asset group only reduces the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets of the group and is allocated on a pro rata basis using the relative carrying amounts of those assets, however, the allocated impairment loss cannot reduce the carrying amount of a long-lived asset below its estimated fair value. As a result of the estimated fair values, the impairment charge was allocated entirely to the Dr.Jart+ customer list intangible asset.
For further discussion of the methods used and factors considered in our estimates as part of the impairment testing for goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets and impairment of the Dr.Jart+ customer list intangible asset, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
Income Taxes
We calculate and provide for income taxes in each tax jurisdiction in which we operate. As the application of various tax laws relevant to our global business is often uncertain, significant judgment is required in determining our annual tax expense and in evaluating our tax positions. The provision for income taxes includes the amounts payable or refundable for the current year, the effect of deferred taxes and impacts from uncertain tax positions.
We recognize deferred tax assets and liabilities for future tax consequences attributable to differences between financial statement carrying amounts of existing assets and liabilities and their respective tax basis, net operating losses, tax credit and other carryforwards. Deferred tax assets and liabilities are measured using enacted tax rates when the assets and liabilities are expected to be realized or settled. We regularly review deferred tax assets for realizability and establish valuation allowances based on available evidence including historical operating losses, projected future taxable income, expected timing of the reversals of existing temporary differences, and appropriate tax planning strategies. If our assessment of the realizability of a deferred tax asset changes, an increase to a valuation allowance will result in a reduction of net earnings at that time, while the reduction of a valuation allowance will result in an increase of net earnings at that time.
We provide tax reserves for U.S. federal, state, local and foreign tax exposures relating to periods subject to audit. The development of reserves for these exposures requires judgments about tax issues, potential outcomes and timing, and is a subjective critical estimate. We assess our tax positions and record tax benefits for all years subject to examination based upon management’s evaluation of the facts, circumstances, and information available at the reporting dates. For those tax positions where it is more-likely-than-not that a tax benefit will be sustained, we have recorded the largest amount of tax benefit with a greater than 50% likelihood of being realized upon settlement with a tax authority that has full knowledge of all relevant information. For those tax positions where it is more-likely-than-not that a tax benefit will not be sustained, no tax benefit has been recognized in the consolidated financial statements. We classify applicable interest and penalties as a component of the provision for income taxes. Although the outcome relating to these exposures is uncertain, in our opinion adequate provisions for income taxes have been made for estimable potential liabilities emanating from these exposures. If actual outcomes differ materially from these estimates, they could have a material impact on our consolidated net earnings.
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For further discussion of Income Taxes, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 9 – Income Taxes.
CAUTIONARY NOTE REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING INFORMATION
We and our representatives from time to time make written or oral forward-looking statements, including in this and other filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, in our press releases and in our reports to stockholders, which may constitute “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. Such statements may address our expectations regarding sales, earnings or other future financial performance and liquidity, other performance measures, product introductions, entry into new geographic regions, information technology initiatives, new methods of sale, our long-term strategy, restructuring and other charges and resulting cost savings, and future operations or operating results. These statements may contain words like “expect,” “will,” “will likely result,” “would,” “believe,” “estimate,” “planned,” “plans,” “intends,” “may,” “should,” “could,” “anticipate,” “estimate,” “project,” “projected,” “forecast,” and “forecasted” or similar expressions. Although we believe that our expectations are based on reasonable assumptions within the bounds of our knowledge of our business and operations, actual results may differ materially from our expectations. Factors that could cause actual results to differ from expectations include, without limitation:
(1)increased competitive activity from companies in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care businesses;
(2)our ability to develop, produce and market new products on which future operating results may depend and to successfully address challenges in our business;
(3)consolidations, restructurings, bankruptcies and reorganizations in the retail industry causing a decrease in the number of stores that sell our products, an increase in the ownership concentration within the retail industry, ownership of retailers by our competitors or ownership of competitors by our customers that are retailers and our inability to collect receivables;
(4)destocking and tighter working capital management by retailers;
(5)the success, or changes in timing or scope, of new product launches and the success, or changes in timing or scope, of advertising, sampling and merchandising programs;
(6)shifts in the preferences of consumers as to how they perceive value and where and how they shop;
(7)social, political and economic risks to our foreign or domestic manufacturing, distribution and retail operations, including changes in foreign investment and trade policies and regulations of the host countries and of the United States;
(8)changes in the laws, regulations and policies (including the interpretations and enforcement thereof) that affect, or will affect, our business, including those relating to our products or distribution networks, changes in accounting standards, tax laws and regulations, environmental or climate change laws, regulations or accords, trade rules and customs regulations, and the outcome and expense of legal or regulatory proceedings, and any action we may take as a result;
(9)foreign currency fluctuations affecting our results of operations and the value of our foreign assets, the relative prices at which we and our foreign competitors sell products in the same markets and our operating and manufacturing costs outside of the United States;
(10)changes in global or local conditions, including those due to volatility in the global credit and equity markets, government economic policies, natural or man-made disasters, real or perceived epidemics, supply chain challenges, inflation, or increased energy costs, that could affect consumer purchasing, the willingness or ability of consumers to travel and/or purchase our products while traveling, the financial strength of our customers, suppliers or other contract counterparties, our operations, the cost and availability of capital which we may need for new equipment, facilities or acquisitions, the returns that we are able to generate on our pension assets and the resulting impact on funding obligations, the cost and availability of raw materials and the assumptions underlying our critical accounting estimates;
(11)shipment delays, commodity pricing, depletion of inventory and increased production costs resulting from disruptions of operations at any of the facilities that manufacture our products or at our distribution or inventory centers, including disruptions that may be caused by the implementation of information technology initiatives, or by restructurings;
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(12)real estate rates and availability, which may affect our ability to increase or maintain the number of retail locations at which we sell our products and the costs associated with our other facilities;
(13)changes in product mix to products which are less profitable;
(14)our ability to acquire, develop or implement new information technology, including operational technology and websites, on a timely basis and within our cost estimates; to maintain continuous operations of our new and existing information technology; and to secure the data and other information that may be stored in such technologies or other systems or media;
(15)our ability to capitalize on opportunities for improved efficiency, such as publicly-announced strategies and restructuring and cost-savings initiatives, and to integrate acquired businesses and realize value therefrom;
(16)consequences attributable to local or international conflicts around the world, as well as from any terrorist action, retaliation and the threat of further action or retaliation;
(17)the timing and impact of acquisitions, investments and divestitures; and
(18)additional factors as described in our filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, including this Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2025.
We assume no responsibility to update forward-looking statements made herein or otherwise.
MD&A history
Prior-year 10-K MD&A spans are extracted from SEC filings with the same bounded parser used for the latest filing. The latest 10-K appears above; prior years are below.
FY 2024 10-K MD&A
SEC filing source: 0001001250-24-000116.
Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
We manufacture, market and sell beauty products including those in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care categories, which are distributed in approximately 150 countries and territories. The following table is a comparative summary of operating results for fiscal 2024, 2023 and 2022 and reflects the basis of presentation described in Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 24 – Segment Data and Related Information for all periods presented. Products, services, and royalty revenue from license arrangements that do not meet our definition of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care have been included in the “other” category. During the fiscal 2024 second quarter, we identified and corrected misstatements of net sales and operating income between certain of our product categories in our Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations for fiscal 2023 and fiscal 2022. See Note 24 – Segment Data and Related Information for additional details.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2024 | 2023 | 2022 | ||||||||
| NET SALES | |||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 7,908 | $ | 8,249 | $ | 9,902 | |||||
| Makeup | 4,470 | 4,532 | 4,670 | ||||||||
| Fragrance | 2,487 | 2,451 | 2,491 | ||||||||
| Hair Care | 629 | 652 | 631 | ||||||||
| Other | 115 | 53 | 47 | ||||||||
| 15,609 | 15,937 | 17,741 | |||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (1) | (27) | (4) | ||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 15,608 | $ | 15,910 | $ | 17,737 | |||||
| By Region(1): | |||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 4,581 | $ | 4,518 | $ | 4,623 | |||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 6,140 | 6,225 | 7,681 | ||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 4,888 | 5,194 | 5,437 | ||||||||
| 15,609 | 15,937 | 17,741 | |||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (1) | (27) | (4) | ||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 15,608 | $ | 15,910 | $ | 17,737 | |||||
| OPERATING INCOME (LOSS) | |||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 735 | $ | 1,277 | $ | 2,776 | |||||
| Makeup | 93 | (21) | 126 | ||||||||
| Fragrance | 265 | 370 | 441 | ||||||||
| Hair Care | (52) | (36) | (28) | ||||||||
| Other | 53 | 4 | (1) | ||||||||
| 1,094 | 1,594 | 3,314 | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (124) | (85) | (144) | ||||||||
| Operating income | $ | 970 | $ | 1,509 | $ | 3,170 | |||||
| By Region(1): | |||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 34 | $ | (73) | $ | 1,159 | |||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 836 | 843 | 1,360 | ||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 224 | 824 | 795 | ||||||||
| 1,094 | 1,594 | 3,314 | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (124) | (85) | (144) | ||||||||
| Operating income | $ | 970 | $ | 1,509 | $ | 3,170 |
(1)The net sales from the Company’s travel retail business are included in the Europe, the Middle East & Africa region, with the exception of net sales of Dr.Jart+ in the travel retail channel that are reflected in Korea in the Asia/Pacific region. Operating income attributable to the travel retail sales included in Europe, the Middle East & Africa is included in that region and in The Americas.
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The following table presents certain consolidated earnings data as a percentage of net sales:
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2024 | 2023 | 2022 | |||||||
| Net sales | 100.0 | % | 100.0 | % | 100.0 | % | |||
| Cost of sales | 28.3 | 28.7 | 24.3 | ||||||
| Gross profit | 71.7 | 71.3 | 75.7 | ||||||
| Operating expenses: | |||||||||
| Selling, general and administrative | 61.6 | 60.2 | 55.7 | ||||||
| Restructuring and other charges | 0.8 | 0.3 | 0.8 | ||||||
| Goodwill impairment | 1.9 | — | — | ||||||
| Impairment of other intangible and long-lived assets | 1.2 | 1.3 | 1.4 | ||||||
| Total operating expenses | 65.4 | 61.8 | 57.9 | ||||||
| Operating income | 6.2 | 9.5 | 17.9 | ||||||
| Interest expense | 2.4 | 1.6 | 0.9 | ||||||
| Interest income and investment income, net | 1.1 | 0.8 | 0.2 | ||||||
| Other components of net periodic benefit cost | (0.1) | (0.1) | — | ||||||
| Other income, net | — | — | — | ||||||
| Earnings before income taxes | 4.9 | 8.8 | 17.1 | ||||||
| Provision for income taxes | 2.3 | 2.4 | 3.5 | ||||||
| Net earnings | 2.6 | 6.3 | 13.6 | ||||||
| Net earnings attributable to noncontrolling interests | — | — | — | ||||||
| Net earnings attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest | (0.1) | — | (0.1) | ||||||
| Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | 2.5 | % | 6.3 | % | 13.5 | % | |||
| Not adjusted for differences caused by rounding |
Period-over-period changes in our net sales are generally attributable to the impacts from (i) pricing on our base portfolio, including changes in mix and those due to strategic pricing actions, (ii) volume, including changes driven by the impact of new product innovation, (iii) acquisitions and/or divestitures, and/or (iv) foreign currency translation. The percentages disclosed for these impacts are calculated on an individual basis.
The net sales impact from pricing consists of changes in list prices, due to strategic pricing actions, and mix shifts within and among product categories, geographic regions, brands and distribution channels. The prices at which we sell our products vary by brand, distribution channel (e.g., wholesale or direct-to-consumer) and may also vary by country. Our brands and products cover a broad array of pricing tiers. Prices of skin care and fragrance products are typically higher than makeup and hair care products.
New product innovation includes the introduction of new products, as well as changes related to existing products or where they are sold, including reformulations, regional expansion, repackaging and sets. A product is considered "new innovation" for the twelve-month period following the initial shipment date. Our innovation is often launched at different price points than existing products and value derived from innovation may vary from year to year. We continually introduce new products, support new and established products through advertising, merchandising and sampling and phase out existing products that no longer meet the needs of our consumers or our objectives. The economics of developing, producing, launching, supporting and discontinuing products impact our sales and operating performance each period. The introduction of new products often has some cannibalizing effect on sales of existing products, which we take into account in our business planning. The impact of new product introductions, including timing compared to introductions in prior periods, also affects our results.
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Non-GAAP Financial Measures
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period helps investors and others compare operating performance between periods. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. See Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
We operate on a global basis, with the majority of our net sales generated outside the United States. Accordingly, fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates can affect our results of operations. Therefore, we present certain net sales, operating results and diluted net earnings per common share information excluding the effect of foreign currency rate fluctuations to provide a framework for assessing the performance of our underlying business outside the United States. Constant currency information compares results between periods as if exchange rates had remained constant period-over-period. We calculate constant currency information by translating current-period results using monthly average foreign currency exchange rates and adjusting for the period-over-period impact of foreign currency cash flow hedging activities.
Overview
We are a leader in prestige beauty, which combines the repeat purchase and relative affordability of consumer goods with high quality products and services. Within prestige beauty, we are diversified by product category, geography, brand, product sub-category, channel, consumer segment and price point. We also leverage consumer analytics and insights by deploying our brands to grow sales and pursue profitable opportunities. These analytics and insights, combined with our creativity, inform our innovation to provide a broad, locally-relevant and inclusive range of prestige products with the aim of competing effectively for a greater share of a consumer's beauty routine.
•Our skin care net sales declined 4% in fiscal 2024, driven by declines from Estée Lauder, Clinique and Dr.Jart+. The decrease in net sales from Estée Lauder, Clinique and Dr.Jart+ was primarily driven by declines in mainland China and in our Asia travel retail business. In mainland China, net sales declined, primarily driven by ongoing softness in overall prestige beauty. Asia travel retail net sales declined, driven by a decline in the first half of fiscal 2024, primarily due to actions that we and our retailers took to reset inventory levels, in part in response to changes in government policies that began in the second half of fiscal 2023, as well as lower conversion. The net sales decrease in Asia travel retail for Estée Lauder was partially offset by the return to growth in the second half of fiscal 2024 primarily driven by a favorable comparison to the prior-year period due to the aforementioned changes in government policies as well as higher shipments. Also contributing to the net sales decrease from Dr.Jart+ was lower demand. These decreases were partially offset by higher net sales from La Mer and The Ordinary.
•Our makeup net sales decreased slightly in fiscal 2024, primarily driven by lower net sales from M·A·C, reflecting the unfavorable year-over-year impact resulting from the recognition of previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK 2 M·A·C take-back program during fiscal 2023, and to a lesser extent, TOM FORD and La Mer, partially offset by higher net sales from Clinique.
•Our fragrance net sales increased slightly in fiscal 2024, primarily driven by growth in Le Labo and Jo Malone London, partially offset by lower net sales from Estée Lauder and the unfavorable year-over-year impact of residual net sales in fiscal 2023 related to the terminations of certain of our designer fragrance licenses effective June 30, 2022.
•Our hair care net sales decreased 4% in fiscal 2024, driven by lower net sales from Aveda due to declines in North America, primarily reflecting softness in the salon channel and our direct-to-consumer business.
Our global distribution capability and operations allow us to focus on targeted expanded consumer reach wherever consumer demographics and trends are attractive. Our regional organizations, and the expertise of our people there, enable our brands to be more locally and culturally relevant in both product assortment and communications. We are evolving the way we connect with our consumers in stores, online and where they travel, including by expanding our digital and social media presence and the engagement of global and local influencers to amplify brand or product stories. We tailor implementation of our strategy by market to drive consumer engagement and embrace inclusion and cultural diversity. We strive to strengthen our presence in large, image-building core markets, while broadening our presence in emerging markets.
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•Net sales in The Americas increased slightly in fiscal 2024, primarily driven by higher net sales in Mexico, Brazil and, to a lesser extent, the United States. The increase in net sales from Mexico and Brazil was primarily driven by growth in makeup, led by M·A·C, as well as growth in skin care and fragrance. Net sales in the United States increased slightly, primarily reflecting incremental royalty revenue associated with the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter acquisition of the TOM FORD brand and higher net sales in fragrance, led by our luxury fragrances, partially offset by a decline in makeup reflecting the unfavorable year-over-year impact resulting from the recognition of previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK 2 M·A·C take-back program in fiscal 2023, and to a lesser extent, decreases in hair care and skin care.
•Net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa decreased slightly in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting lower net sales from our Asia travel retail business. Asia travel retail net sales declined, driven by a decline in the first half of fiscal 2024, primarily due to actions that we and our retailers took to reset inventory levels, in part in response to changes in government policies that began in the second half of fiscal 2023, as well as lower conversion. The net sales decrease in Asia travel retail was partially offset by the return to growth in the second half of fiscal 2024 primarily driven by a favorable comparison to the prior-year period due to the aforementioned changes in government policies as well as higher shipments. Partially offsetting the decrease in Europe, the Middle East & Africa were higher net sales in the United Kingdom, the Nordic countries and Germany.
•Net sales in Asia/Pacific decreased 6% in fiscal 2024, reflecting lower net sales from mainland China, and to a lesser extent Korea, partially offset by an increase in net sales in Hong Kong SAR. The decrease in net sales in mainland China was primarily driven by ongoing softness in overall prestige beauty. The lower net sales in Korea were primarily due to lower demand in the Dr.Jart+ travel retail business in Korea.
We approach distribution strategically by product category and location and seek to optimize distribution by matching our brands with appropriate opportunities while seeking to maintain high productivity per door. We are expanding our brands locations as we continue to seek high-growth opportunities to reach new consumers in online, freestanding stores, specialty-multi and travel retail, which we believe will be higher growth channels in the long term. We also focus on brand-building retail activities, technology-driven activations and omnichannel capabilities that enhance the shopping experience for consumers.
•As part of this strategy, we have built a leadership position in the global travel retail channel, that historically allowed us to leverage the robust and growing international passenger traffic. While the Asia travel retail business continued to be pressured in fiscal 2024, we believe that global travel retail is a long-term growth opportunity. Travel retail continues to be an important channel for brand building, particularly for those consumers who experience our brands for the first time while traveling. We continue to expand our strategic presence in travel retail across duty-free locations primarily in airports and downtown stores and increasingly through online retail. As examples, we engage consumers at the airport through pop-up activations in non-traditional commercial areas, and we tailor communications and curated assortments for targeted consumer groups. At the same time, travel retail is susceptible to a number of external factors, including fluctuations in currency exchange rates, changes in regulations or enforcement, and consumers’ willingness and ability to travel and spend.
•We continue to support e-commerce sites of our own, collaborate with our retailers on their e-commerce sites, and sell through select third-party online malls. We believe our success in the channel is a result of adapting our strategy to meet local market and cultural needs. We also continue to develop and implement omnichannel concepts, virtual try-on tools and compelling content to deliver an integrated consumer experience and better serve consumers as they shop across channels.
Outlook
We have experienced challenges within our business, including in our Asia travel retail business, and we expect volatility to continue. We have experienced, and are expecting to continue to experience, ongoing declines in overall prestige beauty due to current consumer sentiment in mainland China, which is also expected to impact Asia travel retail. In North America, we are experiencing ongoing competitive pressures along with a slowdown in prestige beauty growth. We also expect further business disruption in Israel and other parts of the Middle East. Net sales from Israel and the Middle East accounted for approximately 2% of consolidated net sales in each of fiscal 2023 and fiscal 2024. These challenges are collectively expected to impact net sales and profitability, including impacts to our effective tax rate from changes to our geographical mix of earnings.
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We believe that the best way to increase long-term stockholder value is to provide superior products and services in the most efficient and effective manner while recognizing shifts in consumers’ behaviors and shopping practices. Accordingly, our long-term strategy has numerous initiatives across geographic regions, product categories, brands, channels of distribution and functions designed to grow our sales, provide cost efficiencies, leverage our strengths and make us more productive and profitable. We plan to build upon and leverage our history of outstanding creativity and innovation, high quality products and services, and engaging communications while investing for long-term sustainable growth.
We continue to monitor the effects of the global macro environment, including the risk of recession; currency volatility; inflationary pressures; supply chain challenges; social and political issues; competitive pressures; regulatory matters, including the imposition of tariffs and sanctions; geopolitical tensions; and global security issues. For example, the geopolitical tensions between the United States and China could have a material adverse effect on our business. We are also mindful of inflationary pressures on our cost base and are monitoring the impact on consumer preferences. A decline in net sales and profitability may adversely impact the goodwill and other intangible assets associated with our brands, as well as long-lived assets, potentially resulting in impairments.
In December 2021, the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (“OECD”) issued "Pillar Two" Global Anti-Base Erosion model rules for countries to enact into domestic law that would establish a 15% global minimum tax applied on a country-by-country basis for multinational companies. Certain countries have enacted or are expected to enact legislation incorporating the global minimum tax, which will be effective for us beginning in fiscal 2025. We are continuing to evaluate the potential impact of such newly enacted legislation and we anticipate an increase to our global effective tax rate as a result of these changes.
Cybersecurity Incident Disclosed in July 2023
As initially disclosed on July 18, 2023, we identified a cybersecurity incident in which an unauthorized third party gained access to some of our systems. Our investigation into the cybersecurity incident is complete. We determined that the unauthorized third party obtained some data from our systems, including consumer and employee data. We continue to take steps to enhance the security of our systems and coordinate with law enforcement authorities. We provided notification to governmental authorities in certain jurisdictions and also notified affected individuals where required by law.
The incident did not have a material impact on net sales and was $.07 dilutive to earnings per common share for the year ended June 30, 2024, after reflecting the benefit of insurance recoveries received in fiscal 2024.
Restructuring Program Component of the Profit Recovery and Growth Plan
As previously communicated on November 1, 2023, we launched a Profit Recovery Plan, now known as the Profit Recovery and Growth Plan ("PRGP"), to help progressively rebuild our profit margins in fiscal years 2025 and 2026.
The PRGP is focused on rebuilding stronger, more sustainable profitability, supporting sales growth acceleration and increasing speed and agility. The plan is designed to improve gross margin, lower the cost base and reduce overhead expenses, while increasing investments in key consumer-facing activities. Upon completion of this plan, we expect to have improved our gross margin and expense base to drive greater operating leverage for the future.
As a component of the PRGP, on February 5, 2024, we announced a two-year restructuring program. The restructuring program’s main focus includes the reorganization and rightsizing of certain areas of our business as well as simplification and acceleration of processes. We committed to this course of action on February 1, 2024.
In connection with the restructuring program, as of June 30, 2024, we estimate a net reduction in the range of approximately 1,800 to 3,000 positions globally, which is about 3-5% of our positions including temporary and part-time employees as of June 30, 2023. This reduction takes into account the elimination of some positions as well as retraining and redeployment of certain employees in select areas.
We plan to substantially complete specific initiatives under the restructuring program through fiscal 2026. We expect that the restructuring program will result in restructuring and other charges totaling between $500 million and $700 million, before taxes, consisting of employee-related costs, contract terminations, asset write-offs and other costs associated with implementing these initiatives.
Once fully implemented, we expect the restructuring program to yield annual target gross benefits of between $350 million and $500 million, before taxes, a portion of which is expected to be reinvested in consumer-facing activities. The net benefits of the PRGP, which includes the restructuring program, are expected to be between $1,100 million and $1,400 million.
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Further information about the Restructuring Program Component of the Profit Recovery and Growth Plan, is described in Notes to Consolidated Financial Statements, Note 8 – Charges Associated with Restructuring and Other Activities herein.
Impairment Analysis
Based on our annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2024, we determined that the carrying value of the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit and trademark exceeded their estimated fair values. Given the lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions, the reporting unit has made a strategic shift in its operating plan to exit the travel retail channel. This revised strategy also includes increased direct investment in other areas of the business, including in China, to support the brand’s future growth. As a result of these changes in strategy, we made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit which were finalized and approved in the fiscal 2024 fourth quarter, and reflected in the goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2024. These changes in circumstances were also indicators that the carrying amounts of its respective long-lived assets may not be recoverable. We concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible asset exceeded its estimated fair value, which was determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded an impairment charge of $180 million. We then performed a recoverability analysis of the Dr.Jart+ long-lived asset group and, based on the estimated undiscounted cash flows of the asset group, concluded that the carrying amount of the long-lived assets were recoverable. After adjusting the carrying value of the trademark, we completed a quantitative impairment test for goodwill. As the carrying value of the reporting unit exceeded its estimated fair value, we recorded a goodwill impairment charge of $291 million. The estimated fair value of the reporting unit was based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal value, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows, comparable market multiples for the reporting unit, and royalty rate for the trademark. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair value of the reporting unit and trademark intangible asset was the weighted-average cost of capital, which was 10.5%.
A summary of the impairment charges for the twelve months ended June 30, 2024 and the remaining trademark and goodwill carrying values as of June 30, 2024 are as follows:
| Impairment Charges | Carrying Value | ||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | Twelve Months EndedJune 30, 2024 | As of June 30, 2024 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Reporting Unit | Geographic Region | Trademarks | Goodwill | Trademarks | Goodwill | ||||||||||||||||
| Dr.Jart+ | Asia/Pacific | $ | 180 | $ | 291 | $ | 129 | $ | — |
The impairment charges for the twelve months ended June 30, 2024 were reflected in the skin care product category.
Based on our annual goodwill impairment testing as of April 1, 2024, the estimated fair values of all reporting units, which were determined based on qualitative or quantitative assessments, with material goodwill were substantially in excess of their respective carrying values, with the exception of the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit, which we recorded an impairment charge of $291 million related to the Dr.Jart+ goodwill balance reducing the carrying value of goodwill to zero.
Based on our annual other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2024, the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+ trademark was equal to its carrying value subsequent to the impairment charges taken in the fiscal 2024 fourth quarter. The estimated fair value of the Too Faced trademark approximated its carrying value of $186 million and the estimated fair value of the TOM FORD trademark exceeded its carrying value of $2,578 million by 3%. For the TOM FORD trademark, if all other assumptions are held constant, a decrease of 4% in the estimated future net sales, inclusive of the terminal value, or an increase of 20 basis points in the weighted average cost of capital, would have caused the carrying value of the trademark to approximate its estimated fair value. The key assumptions used to determine the estimated fair value of the reporting units and their respective trademarks are primarily predicated on the success of future new product launches, the ability to secure strategic price increases, the achievement of distribution expansion plans, and the realization of cost reduction and other efficiency efforts. If such plans do not materialize, or if there are further challenges in the business environments where the reporting units operate, resulting changes in the key assumptions could negatively impact the estimated fair value of the reporting units and their respective trademarks. This could potentially lead to recognizing additional impairment charges in the future.
For additional information, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
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Fiscal 2023 as Compared with Fiscal 2022
See Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Results of Operations of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2023 for the fiscal 2023 to fiscal 2022 comparative discussion.
Fiscal 2024 as Compared with Fiscal 2023
NET SALES
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 15,608 | $ | 15,910 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (302) | (1,827) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (2) | % | (10) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (1) | % | (7) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales decreased in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting a decrease in skin care, and to a lesser extent, decreases in makeup and hair care, partially offset by an increase in fragrance. The decrease in skin care net sales was primarily driven by lower net sales from Estée Lauder, Clinique and Dr.Jart+, partially offset by higher net sales from La Mer and The Ordinary.
By region, reported net sales decreased in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting lower net sales in Asia/Pacific, and to a lesser extent, lower net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa, partially offset by an increase in net sales in The Americas. The decrease in net sales in Asia/Pacific was primarily driven by lower net sales from mainland China, reflecting ongoing softness in overall prestige beauty, partially offset by higher net sales in Hong Kong SAR.
The fiscal 2024 reported net sales decrease was impacted by approximately $105 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales decreased 2% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 8% and the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 1%. Partially offsetting these decreases was an increase from pricing of 7%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix.
Returns associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they are centrally directed and controlled, are not included in internal measures of product category or geographic region performance and result from activities that are deemed a Company-wide initiative to redesign, resize and reorganize select areas of the business. Accordingly, the following discussions of Net sales by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2024 and fiscal 2023 impacts of returns associated with restructuring and other activities of approximately $1 million and $27 million, respectively.
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Product Categories
Skin Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 7,908 | $ | 8,249 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (341) | (1,653) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (4) | % | (17) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (3) | % | (13) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported skin care net sales decreased in fiscal 2024, reflecting lower net sales from Estée Lauder, Clinique and Dr.Jart+, combined, of approximately $514 million, primarily driven by declines in mainland China and in our Asia travel retail business. In mainland China, net sales declined, primarily driven by ongoing softness in overall prestige beauty. Asia travel retail net sales declined, driven by a decline in the first half of fiscal 2024, primarily due to actions that we and our retailers took to reset inventory levels, in part in response to changes in government policies that began in the second half of fiscal 2023, as well as lower conversion. The net sales decrease in Asia travel retail for Estée Lauder was partially offset by the return to growth in the second half of fiscal 2024 primarily driven by a favorable comparison to the prior-year period due to the aforementioned changes in government policies as well as higher shipments. Also contributing to the net sales decrease in Dr.Jart+ was lower demand.
Partially offsetting these decreases in skin care net sales for fiscal 2024 were higher net sales from La Mer and The Ordinary, combined, of approximately $267 million. Net sales from La Mer increased, primarily driven by the success of hero products. The increase in net sales from The Ordinary was driven by growth in every geographic region, reflecting new product launches, continued success of hero products, and targeted expanded consumer reach.
Skin care net sales were impacted by approximately $79 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported skin care net sales decreased 4% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 11% and the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 1%. Partially offsetting these decreases was an increase from pricing of 8%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix.
Makeup
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 4,470 | $ | 4,532 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (62) | (138) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (1) | % | (3) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (1) | % | 1 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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Reported makeup net sales decreased slightly in fiscal 2024, reflecting lower net sales primarily from M·A·C, and to a lesser extent, TOM FORD and La Mer, combined, of approximately $127 million. Net sales from M·A·C decreased, primarily due to the unfavorable year-over-year impact resulting from the recognition of previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK 2 M·A·C take-back program in fiscal 2023 and the net impact of phasing out select products in preparation for new product launches in fiscal 2024. Net sales from TOM FORD decreased, primarily driven by lower net sales from the lip subcategory. The decrease in net sales from La Mer was primarily driven by a decline in our Asia travel retail business, reflecting actions that we and our retailers took to reset inventory levels, in part in response to changes in government policies in the second half of fiscal 2023, and lower conversion, as well as the impact of rationalizing product assortment within travel retail.
Partially offsetting the decrease in makeup net sales were higher net sales from Clinique, primarily driven by the success of hero products and targeted expanded consumer reach.
Makeup net sales were impacted by approximately $14 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported makeup net sales decreased 1% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 6%, partially offset by an increase from pricing of 5%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix.
Fragrance
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 2,487 | $ | 2,451 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 36 | (40) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 1 | % | (2) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 2 | % | 3 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported fragrance net sales increased slightly in fiscal 2024, reflecting higher net sales from Le Labo and Jo Malone London, combined, of approximately $96 million. Net sales from Le Labo increased in every geographic region, led by Asia/Pacific and primarily reflected growth of hero products, including the successful City Exclusive collection, targeted expanded consumer reach, including the brand's launch in mainland China during the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter, and new product launches. Net sales from Jo Malone London increased, primarily driven by new product launches and the success of hero products.
Partially offsetting the increase in fragrance net sales was lower net sales from Estée Lauder, as well as the unfavorable year-over-year impact of residual net sales in fiscal 2023 related to the transition of licenses due to the termination of certain of our designer fragrance licenses effective June 30, 2022, combined, of approximately $83 million. The decrease in net sales from Estée Lauder was driven by softer retail sales during holiday and key shopping moments and pressure in our Asia travel retail business that led to lower shipments for replenishment orders compared to the prior year, as well as lower net sales from new product innovation.
Fragrance net sales were impacted by approximately $12 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported fragrance net sales increased 1% in fiscal 2024, driven by an increase from pricing of 6%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix. This increase was partially offset by the decrease from volume of 4%.
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Hair Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 629 | $ | 652 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (23) | 21 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (4) | % | 3 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (4) | % | 6 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported hair care net sales decreased in fiscal 2024, driven by lower net sales from Aveda, due to declines in North America, primarily reflecting softness in the salon channel and our direct-to-consumer business.
Reported hair care net sales decreased 4% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 11%, partially offset by an increase from pricing of 7%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix.
Geographic Regions
We strategically time our new product launches by geographic market, which may account for differences in regional sales growth.
The Americas
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 4,581 | $ | 4,518 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 63 | (105) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 1 | % | (2) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 1 | % | (3) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales in The Americas increased slightly in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting higher net sales in Mexico, Brazil, and, to a lesser extent, the United States, combined, of approximately $57 million. The increase in net sales in Mexico and Brazil was primarily driven by growth in makeup, led by M·A·C, reflecting successful performance during key shopping moments and new product launches, as well as growth in skin care and fragrance. In the United States, net sales increased slightly, primarily driven by incremental royalty revenue associated with the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter acquisition of the TOM FORD brand and higher net sales in fragrance, led by our luxury fragrances, partially offset by a decline in makeup reflecting the unfavorable year-over-year impact resulting from the recognition of previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK 2 M·A·C take-back program in fiscal 2023, and to a lesser extent, decreases in hair care and skin care.
Reported net sales in The Americas included approximately $4 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in The Americas increased 1% in fiscal 2024, driven by an increase from pricing of 2% due to the favorable impact of strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix, and the impact from the royalty revenue from the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter acquisition of the TOM FORD brand of 1%. These increases were partially offset by the decrease from volume of 2%.
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Europe, the Middle East & Africa
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 6,140 | $ | 6,225 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (85) | (1,456) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (1) | % | (19) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (2) | % | (16) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales decreased slightly in Europe, the Middle East & Africa in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting lower net sales from our Asia travel retail business. Asia travel retail net sales declined, driven by a decline in the first half of fiscal 2024, primarily due to actions that we and our retailers took to reset inventory levels, in part in response to changes in government policies that began in the second half of fiscal 2023, as well as lower conversion. The net sales decrease in Asia travel retail was partially offset by the return to growth in the second half of fiscal 2024, primarily driven by a favorable comparison to the prior-year period due to the aforementioned changes in government policies as well as higher shipments.
Partially offsetting the decrease in Europe, the Middle East & Africa in fiscal 2024 was higher net sales in the United Kingdom, the Nordic countries and Germany, combined, of approximately $129 million. The increase in net sales from the United Kingdom was primarily driven by the favorable impact from foreign currency translation and growth from The Ordinary, reflecting targeted expanded consumer reach. The increase in net sales from the Nordic region was primarily driven by higher net sales across all major product categories, led by skin care. The increase in net sales from Germany was primarily driven by higher net sales in makeup.
Reported net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa included approximately $54 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa decreased 1% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 11%. This decrease was partially offset by an increase from pricing of 9%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix, and the favorable impact from foreign currency translation of 1%.
Asia/Pacific
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 4,888 | $ | 5,194 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (306) | (243) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (6) | % | (4) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (3) | % | 4 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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Reported net sales decreased in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2024, reflecting lower net sales from mainland China, and to a lesser extent Korea, combined, of approximately $401 million. The decrease in net sales from mainland China was primarily driven by ongoing softness in overall prestige beauty. The net sales decrease in Korea was led by the Dr.Jart+ travel retail business in Korea reflecting lower demand.
Partially offsetting the net sales decrease in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2024 was an increase in net sales in Hong Kong SAR, primarily driven by the resumption of travel from mainland China to Hong Kong SAR due to the lifting of travel restrictions which began during the fiscal 2023 third quarter.
The net sales decrease in Asia/Pacific included approximately $155 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in Asia/Pacific decreased 6% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 11% and the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 3%. Partially offsetting these decreases was an increase from pricing of 8%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix.
GROSS MARGIN
Gross margin in fiscal 2024 increased to 71.7% as compared with 71.3% in fiscal 2023.
| Fiscal 2024 vs. Fiscal 2023Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points | |
|---|---|
| As Reported: | |
| Mix of business | 155 |
| Obsolescence charges | 45 |
| Manufacturing costs and other | (95) |
| Foreign exchange transactions | (75) |
| Returns and charges associated with restructuring and other activities | 10 |
| As Reported Gross Margin Basis Point Variance | 40 |
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure Adjustments: | |
| Returns and charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (10) |
| Non-GAAP Gross Margin Basis Point Variance | 30 |
As reported, the increase in gross margin for fiscal 2024 reflected a favorable impact from our mix of business, reflecting the benefits of strategic pricing actions and changes in brand mix. The increase in gross margin for fiscal 2024 was partially offset by unfavorable impacts from higher manufacturing costs and other, driven primarily by the under absorption of manufacturing variances due to lower production volumes in the second half of fiscal 2023, that was accounted for in the early part of fiscal 2024, as well as the impact from the recognition of reduced manufacturing volumes on our standard cost within cost of sales in the fiscal 2024 third quarter, partially offset by favorability in cost management, including freight and transportation costs.
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OPERATING EXPENSES
Operating expenses as a percentage of net sales in fiscal 2024 increased to 65.4% as compared with 61.8% in fiscal 2023.
| Fiscal 2024 vs. Fiscal 2023Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points | |
|---|---|
| As Reported: | |
| General and administrative expenses | (10) |
| Advertising, merchandising, sampling and product development | (20) |
| Selling | (50) |
| Shipping | 20 |
| Store operating costs | (60) |
| Stock-based compensation | (40) |
| Foreign exchange transactions | 30 |
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (50) |
| Goodwill and other intangible asset impairments | (180) |
| As Reported Operating Expense Margin Basis Point Variance | (360) |
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure Adjustments: | |
| Impact of restructuring and other activities | 20 |
| Goodwill and other intangible asset impairments | 180 |
| Non-GAAP Operating Expense Margin Basis Point Variance | (160) |
Higher store operating costs and selling expenses in fiscal 2024 reflect our continued investments in our business including through targeted expanded consumer reach and increased demonstration expenses.
OPERATING RESULTS
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 970 | $ | 1,509 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (539) | (1,661) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (36) | % | (52) | % | |||
| Operating Margin | 6.2 | % | 9.5 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill and other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax | (13) | % | (48) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
The reported operating margin for fiscal 2024 decreased from the prior year, primarily driven by the decreases in net sales and operating expense margin, partially offset by an increase in gross margin, as discussed above.
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Charges associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they are centrally directed and controlled, are not included in internal measures of product category or geographic region performance and result from activities that are deemed Company-wide initiatives to redesign, resize and reorganize select areas of the business. Accordingly, the following discussions of Operating income by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2024 and 2023 impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities of $124 million, or approximately 1% of net sales and $85 million, or approximately 1% of net sales, respectively.
Product Categories
Skin Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 735 | $ | 1,277 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (542) | (1,499) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (42) | % | (54) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax | (12) | % | (53) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported skin care operating income decreased in fiscal 2024, reflecting lower operating results from Dr.Jart+, Estée Lauder and Clinique, combined, of approximately $580 million. The decrease in operating income from Dr.Jart+ was primarily driven by the unfavorable year-over-year impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments of $371 million as well as a decrease in net sales. Operating income from Estée Lauder and Clinique decreased, primarily driven by decreases in net sales, partially offset by disciplined advertising and promotional expense management and lower shipping expenses due to the decreases in net sales.
Partially offsetting the decrease in skin care operating income in fiscal 2024 was higher operating results from La Mer and The Ordinary, combined, of approximately $179 million. The increase in operating income from La Mer was primarily driven by an increase in net sales and a decrease in cost of sales, partially offset by an increase in advertising and promotional expenses to support growth of the business as well as higher selling costs due to an increase in demonstration expenses compared to the prior year and targeted expanded consumer reach. Operating income from The Ordinary increased, primarily driven by an increase in net sales and decrease in cost of sales due in part to the favorable impact from the shift of manufacturing production volume from third-party manufacturers to our own facilities, increased automation within such facilities, and lower obsolescence charges, partially offset by an increase in advertising and promotional activities and general and administrative expenses as the brand continues to invest and support the growth of the business.
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Makeup
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income (loss) | $ | 93 | $ | (21) | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 114 | (147) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 100+% | (100+)% | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of other intangible asset impairments | 8 | % | (31) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported makeup operating results increased for fiscal 2024, primarily driven by higher results from Clinique and Estée Lauder, combined, of approximately $108 million, and also reflecting the favorable year-over-year impact of other intangible asset impairments related to Too Faced and Smashbox of $107 million. The increase in operating income from Clinique was primarily driven by an increase in net sales, partially offset by higher selling expenses due to increased demonstration costs compared to the prior year. Operating income from Estée Lauder increased, primarily driven by disciplined advertising and promotional expense management and an increase in net sales.
Fragrance
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 265 | $ | 370 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (105) | (71) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (28) | % | (16) | % |
Reported fragrance operating income decreased in fiscal 2024, primarily driven by lower operating results from Clinique, Estée Lauder, and TOM FORD, combined, of approximately $47 million. The decrease in operating income from Clinique was primarily driven by a decrease in net sales. Operating income from Estée Lauder decreased, primarily driven by a decrease in net sales, partially offset by disciplined advertising and promotional expense management. The decrease in operating income from TOM FORD was primarily driven by higher cost of sales, due in part to an increase in promotional items, higher selling expenses due to an increase in demonstration expenses compared to the prior year, higher advertising and promotional expenses and an increase in general and administrative expenses, as the brand continues to invest and support the growth of the business, partially offset by a decrease in royalty expense as a result of the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter acquisition of TOM FORD brand.
Hair Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating loss | $ | (52) | $ | (36) | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (16) | (8) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (44) | % | (29) | % |
Reported hair care operating results decreased in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting lower net sales, partially offset by disciplined advertising and promotional expense management.
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Geographic Regions
The Americas
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 34 | $ | (73) | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 107 | (1,232) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 100+% | (100+)% | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax | (14) | % | (95) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported operating results increased in The Americas in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting higher operating results in Canada and the United States, combined, of approximately $89 million. These operating results include the full-year true-up of charges among the Company’s geographic regions to reflect the updated value of investments in innovation centralized in The Americas region of $174 million, with a corresponding decrease in Europe, the Middle East & Africa of $131 million and Asia/Pacific of $43 million. In Canada, the higher operating results were primarily driven by an increase in operating income from The Ordinary, reflecting the shift of the brand's manufacturing production volume from third-party manufacturers to our own facilities and increased automation.
In the United States, also contributing to the increase in operating results was the favorable year-over-year impact of other intangible asset impairments relating to Too Faced and Smashbox of $107 million during the fiscal 2023 second quarter. Partially offsetting these increases was a decrease in intercompany royalty income of $55 million compared to the prior year, driven by a decrease in net sales in our travel retail business, an increase in stock-based compensation, primarily driven by the unfavorable year-over-year comparisons in the recognition of expenses, and adjustments related to our performance share units, as well as an increase in store operating costs and product development costs as we continue to invest in our business.
Europe, the Middle East & Africa
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 836 | $ | 843 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (7) | (517) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (1) | % | (38) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax | — | % | (38) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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Reported operating income in Europe, the Middle East & Africa decreased 1% in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting lower operating results in Germany, the United Kingdom and in our travel retail business, combined, of approximately $72 million. These operating results, as well the results for other countries in the region, include the full-year true-up of charges among the Company’s geographic regions to reflect the updated value of investments in innovation centralized in The Americas region resulting in lower operating income of $131 million, with a corresponding increase in operating income in The Americas. In addition, the decrease in operating results from our travel retail business also reflected the decrease in net sales, partially offset by favorability in cost of sales, and a decrease in intercompany royalty expense to The Americas of $55 million driven by the decrease in net sales.
Partially offsetting these decreases in operating income in Europe, the Middle East & Africa for fiscal 2024, were higher results from the Balkans primarily driven by an increase in net sales.
Asia/Pacific
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 224 | $ | 824 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (600) | 29 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (73) | % | 4 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments | (25) | % | (10) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported operating income decreased in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2024, primarily driven by Korea, led by the Dr.Jart+ travel retail business in Korea, and lower results in mainland China, combined, of approximately $562 million. The decrease in operating income from Korea, led by the Dr.Jart+ travel retail business in Korea, was primarily driven by the unfavorable year-over-year impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments relating to Dr.Jart+ of $371 million and an increase in cost of sales. The decrease in operating income in mainland China was primarily driven by a decrease in net sales, partially offset by disciplined advertising and promotional expense management. Included within the decrease for Korea above, as well as in other countries in Asia/Pacific, is the full-year true-up of charges among the Company’s geographic regions to reflect the updated value of investments in innovation centralized in The Americas region resulting in lower operating income of $43 million, with a corresponding increase in operating income in The Americas.
INTEREST AND INVESTMENT INCOME
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| Interest expense | $ | 378 | $ | 255 | |||
| Interest income and investment income, net | $ | 167 | $ | 131 |
Interest expense increased for fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting a higher debt balance, due in part to the financing of our acquisition of the TOM FORD brand, including the issuance of Senior Notes in May 2023, as well as the issuance of Senior Notes in February 2024. Also contributing to the increase in interest expense was higher interest rates compared to the prior year. Interest income and investment income, net increased, primarily reflecting higher interest rates compared to the prior year.
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PROVISION FOR INCOME TAXES
The provision for income taxes represents U.S. federal, foreign, state and local income taxes. The effective rate differs from the federal statutory rate primarily due to the effect of state and local income taxes, the tax impact of stock-based compensation, the taxation of foreign income and income tax reserve adjustments, which represent changes in our net liability for unrecognized tax benefits including tax settlements and lapses of the applicable statutes of limitations. Our effective tax rate will change from year-to-year based on recurring and non-recurring factors including the geographical mix of earnings, enacted tax legislation, state and local income taxes, tax reserve adjustments, the tax impact of stock-based compensation, the interaction of various global tax strategies and the impact from certain acquisitions.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| Earnings before income taxes: | $ | 772 | $ | 1,397 | |||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes | 47.0 | % | 27.7 | % | |||
| Basis-point change from prior year | 1,930 | 700 | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes | 31.0 | % | 26.5 | % |
(1)Excludes the net impact on the effective tax rates of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill and other intangible asset impairments and changes in the fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax.
The effective tax rate for fiscal 2024 increased approximately 1,930 basis points. The increase was primarily attributable to the impact of nondeductible goodwill impairment charges associated with the our Dr.Jart+ reporting unit of approximately 790 basis points, as well as a higher effective tax rate on the our foreign operations of approximately 730 basis points, due to the our geographical mix of earnings for fiscal 2024, and an unfavorable impact associated with previously issued stock-based compensation of approximately 380 basis points.
NET EARNINGS ATTRIBUTABLE TO THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions, except per share data) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | $ | 390 | $ | 1,006 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (616) | (1,384) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (61) | % | (58) | % | |||
| Diluted net earnings per common share | $ | 1.08 | $ | 2.79 | |||
| % Change from prior year | (61) | % | (57) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in diluted net earnings per common share from the prior year adjusting for the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill and other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax. | (25) | % | (52) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” below for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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RECONCILIATIONS OF NON-GAAP FINANCIAL MEASURES
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period, or do not reflect the Company’s underlying ongoing business, provides transparency for such items and helps investors and others compare and analyze our operating performance from period to period. In the future, we expect to incur charges or adjustments similar in nature to those presented below; however, the impact to the Company’s results in a given period may be highly variable and difficult to predict. Our non-GAAP financial measures may not be comparable to similarly titled measures used by, or determined in a manner consistent with, other companies. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. The following tables present Net sales, Operating income and Diluted net earnings per common share adjusted to exclude the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities; goodwill and other intangible asset impairments; the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax; and the effects of foreign currency translation. The following tables provide reconciliations between these non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
| Year Ended June 30 | % Change | % Change in Constant Currency | ||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions, except per share data) | 2024 | 2023 | Variance | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales, as reported | $ | 15,608 | $ | 15,910 | $ | (302) | (2) | % | (1) | % | ||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | 1 | 27 | (26) | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales, as adjusted | $ | 15,609 | $ | 15,937 | $ | (328) | (2) | % | (1) | % | ||||||||
| Operating income, as reported | $ | 970 | $ | 1,509 | $ | (539) | (36) | % | (34) | % | ||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | 124 | 85 | 39 | |||||||||||||||
| Goodwill and other intangible asset impairments | 471 | 207 | 264 | |||||||||||||||
| Change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax | 23 | 22 | 1 | |||||||||||||||
| Operating income, as adjusted | $ | 1,588 | $ | 1,823 | $ | (235) | (13) | % | (10) | % | ||||||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share, as reported | $ | 1.08 | $ | 2.79 | $ | (1.71) | (61) | % | (60) | % | ||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | .27 | .18 | .09 | |||||||||||||||
| Goodwill and other intangible asset impairments | 1.19 | .44 | .75 | |||||||||||||||
| Change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax (less portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest) | .05 | .05 | — | |||||||||||||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share, as adjusted | $ | 2.59 | $ | 3.46 | $ | (.87) | (25) | % | (22) | % |
As diluted net earnings per common share, as adjusted, is used as a measure of the Company’s performance, we consider the impact of current and deferred income taxes when calculating the per-share impact of each of the reconciling items.
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The following table reconciles the change in net sales by product category and geographic region, as reported, to the change in net sales excluding the effects of foreign currency translation:
| As Reported | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year Ended June 30 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | Variance | Impact of foreign currency translation | Variance, in constant currency | % Change, as reported | % Change, in constant currency | |||||||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 7,908 | $ | 8,249 | $ | (341) | $ | 79 | $ | (262) | (4) | % | (3) | % | ||||||||||||
| Makeup | 4,470 | 4,532 | (62) | 14 | (48) | (1) | (1) | |||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 2,487 | 2,451 | 36 | 12 | 48 | 1 | 2 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | 629 | 652 | (23) | — | (23) | (4) | (4) | |||||||||||||||||||
| Other | 115 | 53 | 62 | — | 62 | 100+ | 100+ | |||||||||||||||||||
| 15,609 | 15,937 | (328) | 105 | (223) | (2) | (1) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (1) | (27) | 26 | — | 26 | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 15,608 | $ | 15,910 | $ | (302) | $ | 105 | $ | (197) | (2) | % | (1) | % | ||||||||||||
| By Region: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 4,581 | $ | 4,518 | $ | 63 | $ | 4 | $ | 67 | 1 | % | 1 | % | ||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 6,140 | 6,225 | (85) | (54) | (139) | (1) | (2) | |||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 4,888 | 5,194 | (306) | 155 | (151) | (6) | (3) | |||||||||||||||||||
| 15,609 | 15,937 | (328) | 105 | (223) | (2) | (1) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (1) | (27) | 26 | — | 26 | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 15,608 | $ | 15,910 | $ | (302) | $ | 105 | $ | (197) | (2) | % | (1) | % |
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The following tables reconcile the change in operating results by product category and geographic region, as reported, to the change in operating income excluding the impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax:
| As Reported | Add:Changes inGoodwill and other intangible asset impairments | Add:Change in fair value of DECIEM acquisition-related stock options inclusive of payroll tax | Variance, as adjusted | % Change, as reported | % Change, as adjusted | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year Ended June 30 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | 2024 | 2023 | Variance | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 735 | $ | 1,277 | $ | (542) | $ | 371 | $ | 1 | $ | (170) | (42)% | (12)% | ||||||||||||||||
| Makeup | 93 | (21) | 114 | (107) | — | 7 | 100+ | 8 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 265 | 370 | (105) | — | — | (105) | (28) | (28) | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | (52) | (36) | (16) | — | — | (16) | (44) | (44) | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| Other | 53 | 4 | 49 | — | — | 49 | 100+ | 100+ | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| 1,094 | 1,594 | $ | (500) | $ | 264 | $ | 1 | $ | (235) | (31)% | (13)% | |||||||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (124) | (85) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 970 | $ | 1,509 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| By Region: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 34 | $ | (73) | $ | 107 | $ | (107) | $ | (8) | $ | (8) | 100+% | (14)% | ||||||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 836 | 843 | (7) | — | 9 | 2 | (1) | — | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 224 | 824 | (600) | 371 | — | (229) | (73) | (25) | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| 1,094 | 1,594 | $ | (500) | $ | 264 | $ | 1 | $ | (235) | (31)% | (13)% | |||||||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (124) | (85) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 970 | $ | 1,509 |
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FINANCIAL CONDITION
LIQUIDITY AND CAPITAL RESOURCES
Overview
Our principal sources of funds historically have been cash flows from operations, borrowings pursuant to our commercial paper program, borrowings from the issuance of long-term debt and committed and uncommitted credit lines provided by banks and other lenders in the United States and abroad. At June 30, 2024, we had cash and cash equivalents of $3,395 million compared with $4,029 million at June 30, 2023. Our cash and cash equivalents are maintained at a number of financial institutions. To mitigate the risk of uninsured balances, we select financial institutions based on their credit ratings and financial strength, and we perform ongoing evaluations of these institutions to limit our concentration risk exposure. During fiscal 2023, we temporarily reduced our holdings of bank deposits and increased our holdings of government money market funds, due to stresses in the global banking system. During fiscal 2024, we have rebalanced our cash allocations, increasing our holdings of bank deposits and decreasing our holdings in government money market funds.
Based on past performance and current expectations, we believe that cash on hand, cash generated from operations, available credit lines and access to credit markets will be adequate to support seasonal working capital needs, currently planned business operations, information technology enhancements, capital expenditures, acquisitions, dividends, stock repurchases, restructuring initiatives, commitments and other contractual obligations on both a near-term and long-term basis.
The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act (the "TCJA") resulted in the Transition Tax on unrepatriated earnings of our foreign subsidiaries and changed the tax law in ways that present opportunities to repatriate cash without additional U.S. federal income tax. During the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter, we changed our assertion regarding our ability and intent to indefinitely reinvest undistributed earnings from certain foreign subsidiaries. We continue to analyze the indefinite reinvestment assertion on our remaining applicable foreign earnings. We do not believe that continuing to reinvest these remaining applicable foreign earnings impairs our ability to meet our domestic debt or working capital obligations. If these reinvested earnings were repatriated into the United States as dividends, we would be subject to state income taxes and applicable foreign taxes in certain jurisdictions.
Inflation impacted our operating results during fiscal 2024 and we expect it to continue. Generally, we have plans to introduce new products at higher prices, increase prices and implement other operating efficiencies which we expect to offset some of these cost increases.
Credit Ratings
Changes in our credit ratings will likely result in changes in our borrowing costs. Our credit ratings also impact the cost of our revolving credit facility. Downgrades in our credit ratings may reduce our ability to issue commercial paper and/or long-term debt and would likely increase the relative costs of borrowing. A credit rating is not a recommendation to buy, sell, or hold securities, is subject to revision or withdrawal at any time by the assigning rating organization, and should be evaluated independently of any other rating. As of August 12, 2024, our long-term debt is rated A with a negative outlook by Standard & Poor’s and A1 with a negative outlook by Moody’s.
Debt and Access to Liquidity
Total debt as a percent of total capitalization was 59% at June 30, 2024 and 2023.
For further information regarding our current and long-term debt and available financing, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Debt.
Cash Flows
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2024 | 2023 | |||||
| Net cash provided by operating activities | $ | 2,360 | $ | 1,731 | |||
| Net cash used for investing activities | $ | (960) | $ | (3,217) | |||
| Net cash provided by (used for) financing activities | $ | (2,035) | $ | 1,590 |
The change in net cash flows provided by operating activities was primarily driven by a favorable change in working capital variances, reflecting a favorable change in inventory and promotional merchandise, other accrued and noncurrent liabilities, which includes the favorable impact from the settlement of foreign currency forward contracts not designated as hedging instruments compared to the prior year, and a favorable year-over-year impact in accounts payable, partially offset by lower earnings before tax, excluding non-cash items.
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The change in net cash flows used for investing activities was primarily driven by a favorable year-over-year impact from the cash paid in connection with the acquisition of the TOM FORD brand during the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter, partially offset to a lesser extent, by an unfavorable impact from the settlement of net investment hedges compared to the prior year, for which there is a partially offsetting favorable impact related to foreign currency forward contracts not designated as hedging instruments that is reflected in working capital noted above.
The change in net cash flows provided by (used for) financing activities primarily reflected an unfavorable impact from the issuance and redemption of long-term debt compared to the prior year, repayments of commercial paper during fiscal 2024 as compared to the proceeds from the issuance of commercial paper in the prior year, and payments associated with the purchase of the remaining interest in DECIEM during the fiscal 2024 fourth quarter, partially offset by lower treasury stock repurchases compared to the prior year.
See Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Financial Condition of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2023 for the fiscal 2023 to fiscal 2022 comparative discussions.
Dividends
For a summary of quarterly cash dividends declared per share on our Class A and Class B Common Stock during the year ended June 30, 2024 and through August 16, 2024, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 18 – Common Stock.
Pension and Post-retirement Plan Funding
Several factors influence the annual funding requirements for our pension plans. For our domestic trust-based noncontributory qualified defined benefit pension plan (“U.S. Qualified Plan”), we seek to maintain appropriate funded percentages. For any future contributions to the U.S. Qualified Plan, we would seek to contribute an amount or amounts that would not be less than the minimum required by the Employee Retirement Income Security Act of 1974, as amended, (“ERISA”) and subsequent pension legislation, and would not be more than the maximum amount deductible for income tax purposes. For each international plan, our funding policies are determined by local laws and regulations. In addition, amounts necessary to fund future obligations under these plans could vary depending on estimated assumptions. The effect of our pension plan funding on future operating results will depend on economic conditions, employee demographics, mortality rates, the number of participants electing to take lump-sum distributions, investment performance and funding decisions.
For the U.S. Qualified Plan, we maintain an investment strategy of matching the duration of a substantial portion of the plan assets with the duration of the underlying plan liabilities. This strategy assists us in maintaining our overall funded ratio. For fiscal 2024 and 2023, we met or exceeded all contribution requirements under ERISA regulations for the U.S. Qualified Plan.
The following table summarizes actual and expected benefit payments and contributions for our other pension and post-retirement plans:
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | Expected 2025 | 2024 | 2023 | ||||||||
| Non-qualified domestic noncontributory pension plan benefit payments | $ | 28 | $ | 8 | $ | 14 | |||||
| International defined benefit pension plan contributions | $ | 29 | $ | 24 | $ | 35 | |||||
| Post-retirement plan benefit payments | $ | 13 | $ | 13 | $ | 13 |
Commitments and Contingencies
For a discussion of our contingencies, see to Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 17 – Commitments and Contingencies.
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Contractual Obligations
For a discussion of our contractual obligations, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 17 – Commitments and Contingencies (Contractual Obligations).
Derivative Financial Instruments and Hedging Activities
For a discussion of our derivative financial instruments and hedging activities, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 13 – Derivative Financial Instruments.
Foreign Exchange Risk Management
For a discussion of foreign exchange risk management, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 13 – Derivative Financial Instruments (Fair value hedges, Cash Flow Hedges, Net Investment Hedges).
Credit Risk
For a discussion of credit risk, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 13 – Derivative Financial Instruments (Credit Risk).
Market Risk
We address certain financial exposures through a controlled program of market risk management that includes the use of foreign currency forward contracts to reduce the effects of fluctuating foreign currency exchange rates and to mitigate the change in fair value of specific assets and liabilities on the balance sheet. To perform a sensitivity analysis of our foreign currency forward contracts, we assess the change in fair values from the impact of hypothetical changes in foreign currency exchange rates. A hypothetical 10% weakening of the U.S. dollar against the foreign exchange rates for the currencies in our portfolio would have resulted in a net decrease in the fair value of our portfolio of approximately $371 million and $265 million as of June 30, 2024 and 2023, respectively. This potential change does not consider our underlying foreign currency exposures.
We also enter into cross-currency swap contracts to hedge the impact of foreign currency changes on certain intercompany foreign currency denominated debt. A hypothetical 10% weakening of the U.S. dollar against the foreign exchange rates for the currencies in our cross-currency swap contracts would have resulted in a net decrease in the fair value of our cross-currency swap contracts of approximately $49 million as of June 30, 2024 and 2023.
In addition, we enter into interest rate derivatives to manage the effects of interest rate movements on our aggregate liability portfolio, including future debt issuances. Based on a hypothetical 100 basis point increase in interest rates, the estimated fair value of our interest rate derivatives would decrease by approximately $48 million and $55 million as of June 30, 2024 and 2023, respectively.
Our sensitivity analysis represents an estimate of reasonably possible net losses that would be recognized on our portfolio of derivative financial instruments assuming hypothetical movements in future market rates and is not necessarily indicative of actual results, which may or may not occur. It does not represent the maximum possible loss or any expected loss that may occur, since actual future gains and losses will differ from those estimated, based upon actual fluctuations in market rates, operating exposures, and the timing thereof, and changes in our portfolio of derivative financial instruments during the year. We believe, however, that any such loss incurred would be offset by the effects of market rate movements on the respective underlying transactions for which the derivative financial instrument was intended.
OFF-BALANCE SHEET ARRANGEMENTS
We do not maintain any off-balance sheet arrangements, transactions, obligations or other relationships with unconsolidated entities that would be expected to have a material current or future effect upon our financial condition or results of operations.
RECENTLY ISSUED ACCOUNTING STANDARDS
Refer to Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies for discussion regarding the impact of accounting standards that were recently issued but not yet effective, on our consolidated financial statements.
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CRITICAL ACCOUNTING POLICIES AND ESTIMATES
The discussion and analysis of our financial condition at June 30, 2024 and our results of operations for the three fiscal years ended June 30, 2024 are based upon our consolidated financial statements, which have been prepared in conformity with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles (“U.S. GAAP”). The preparation of these financial statements requires us to make estimates and assumptions that affect the amounts of assets, liabilities, revenues and expenses reported in those financial statements. These estimates and assumptions can be subjective and complex and, consequently, actual results could differ from those estimates. We consider accounting estimates to be critical if the accounting estimate both (i) involves a significant level of estimation uncertainty, and (ii) has had or is reasonably likely to have a material impact on the Company's financial condition or results of operations. Our critical accounting policies relate to Goodwill and Other Indefinite-lived Intangible Assets - Impairment Assessment and Income Taxes.
Our management has discussed the selection of critical accounting policies and the effect of estimates with the Audit Committee of our Board of Directors.
Goodwill and Other Indefinite-lived Intangible Assets – Impairment Assessment
Goodwill is calculated as the excess of the cost of purchased businesses over the fair value of their underlying net assets. Other indefinite-lived intangible assets principally consist of trademarks. Goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets are not amortized.
When testing goodwill for impairment, we have the option of first performing a qualitative assessment to determine whether it is more-likely-than-not that the fair value of a reporting unit is less than its carrying amount as a basis for determining whether it is necessary to perform a quantitative goodwill impairment test. We use a single quantitative step when determining the subsequent measurement of goodwill by comparing the fair value of a reporting unit with its carrying amount and recording an impairment charge for the amount that the carrying amount exceeds the fair value, up to the total amount of goodwill allocated to that reporting unit.
When testing other indefinite-lived intangible assets for impairment, we also have the option of first performing a qualitative assessment to determine whether it is more-likely-than-not that the other indefinite-lived intangible asset is impaired as a basis for determining whether it is necessary to perform a quantitative test. The quantitative impairment test for other indefinite-lived intangible assets encompasses calculating the fair value of an other indefinite-lived intangible asset and comparing the fair value to its carrying value. If the carrying value exceeds the fair value, an impairment charge is recorded.
For fiscal 2024 and 2023, we elected to perform the qualitative assessment for the goodwill in certain of our reporting units and other indefinite-lived intangible assets. This qualitative assessment included the review of certain macroeconomic factors and entity-specific qualitative factors to determine if it was more-likely-than-not that the fair values of its reporting units were below carrying value. We considered macroeconomic factors including the global economic growth, general macroeconomic trends for the markets in which the reporting units operate and the intangible assets are employed, and the growth of the global prestige beauty industry. In addition to these macroeconomic factors, among other things, we considered the reporting units’ current results and forecasts, any changes in the nature of the business, any significant legal, regulatory, contractual, political or other business climate factors, changes in the industry/competitive environment, changes in the composition or carrying amount of net assets and its intention to sell or dispose of a reporting unit or cease the use of a trademark.
For fiscal 2024 and 2023, a quantitative assessment was performed for the goodwill in certain of our reporting units and other indefinite-lived intangible assets. We engaged third-party valuation specialists and used industry accepted valuation models and criteria that were reviewed and approved by various levels of management. To determine the estimated fair value of the reporting units, we used an equal weighting of the income and market approaches. Under the income approach, we determined fair value using a discounted cash flow method, projecting future cash flows of each reporting unit, as well as a terminal value, and discounting such cash flows at a rate of return that reflected the relative risk of the cash flows. Under the market approach, we utilized market multiples from publicly traded companies with similar operating and investment characteristics as the reporting unit. The significant assumptions used in these two approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal value, the weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and comparable market multiples. To determine the estimated fair value of other indefinite-lived intangible assets, we used an income approach, specifically the relief-from-royalty method. This method assumes that, in lieu of ownership, a third party would be willing to pay a royalty in order to obtain the rights to use the comparable asset. The significant assumptions used in this approach include revenue growth rates, terminal value, the weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rate.
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For further discussion of the methods used and factors considered in our estimates as part of the impairment testing for Goodwill and Other Indefinite-lived Intangible Assets, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
Income Taxes
We calculate and provide for income taxes in each tax jurisdiction in which we operate. As the application of various tax laws relevant to our global business is often uncertain, significant judgment is required in determining our annual tax expense and in evaluating our tax positions. The provision for income taxes includes the amounts payable or refundable for the current year, the effect of deferred taxes and impacts from uncertain tax positions.
We recognize deferred tax assets and liabilities for future tax consequences attributable to differences between financial statement carrying amounts of existing assets and liabilities and their respective tax basis, net operating losses, tax credit and other carryforwards. Deferred tax assets and liabilities are measured using enacted tax rates when the assets and liabilities are expected to be realized or settled. We regularly review deferred tax assets for realizability and establish valuation allowances based on available evidence including historical operating losses, projected future taxable income, expected timing of the reversals of existing temporary differences, and appropriate tax planning strategies. If our assessment of the realizability of a deferred tax asset changes, an increase to a valuation allowance will result in a reduction of net earnings at that time, while the reduction of a valuation allowance will result in an increase of net earnings at that time.
We provide tax reserves for U.S. federal, state, local and foreign tax exposures relating to periods subject to audit. The development of reserves for these exposures requires judgments about tax issues, potential outcomes and timing, and is a subjective critical estimate. We assess our tax positions and record tax benefits for all years subject to examination based upon management’s evaluation of the facts, circumstances, and information available at the reporting dates. For those tax positions where it is more-likely-than-not that a tax benefit will be sustained, we have recorded the largest amount of tax benefit with a greater than 50% likelihood of being realized upon settlement with a tax authority that has full knowledge of all relevant information. For those tax positions where it is more-likely-than-not that a tax benefit will not be sustained, no tax benefit has been recognized in the consolidated financial statements. We classify applicable interest and penalties as a component of the provision for income taxes. Although the outcome relating to these exposures is uncertain, in our opinion adequate provisions for income taxes have been made for estimable potential liabilities emanating from these exposures. If actual outcomes differ materially from these estimates, they could have a material impact on our consolidated net earnings.
For further discussion of Income Taxes, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 9 – Income Taxes.
CAUTIONARY NOTE REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING INFORMATION
We and our representatives from time to time make written or oral forward-looking statements, including in this and other filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, in our press releases and in our reports to stockholders, which may constitute “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. Such statements may address our expectations regarding sales, earnings or other future financial performance and liquidity, other performance measures, product introductions, entry into new geographic regions, information technology initiatives, new methods of sale, our long-term strategy, restructuring and other charges and resulting cost savings, and future operations or operating results. These statements may contain words like “expect,” “will,” “will likely result,” “would,” “believe,” “estimate,” “planned,” “plans,” “intends,” “may,” “should,” “could,” “anticipate,” “estimate,” “project,” “projected,” “forecast,” and “forecasted” or similar expressions. Although we believe that our expectations are based on reasonable assumptions within the bounds of our knowledge of our business and operations, actual results may differ materially from our expectations. Factors that could cause actual results to differ from expectations include, without limitation:
(1)increased competitive activity from companies in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care businesses;
(2)our ability to develop, produce and market new products on which future operating results may depend and to successfully address challenges in our business;
(3)consolidations, restructurings, bankruptcies and reorganizations in the retail industry causing a decrease in the number of stores that sell our products, an increase in the ownership concentration within the retail industry, ownership of retailers by our competitors or ownership of competitors by our customers that are retailers and our inability to collect receivables;
(4)destocking and tighter working capital management by retailers;
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(5)the success, or changes in timing or scope, of new product launches and the success, or changes in timing or scope, of advertising, sampling and merchandising programs;
(6)shifts in the preferences of consumers as to where and how they shop;
(7)social, political and economic risks to our foreign or domestic manufacturing, distribution and retail operations, including changes in foreign investment and trade policies and regulations of the host countries and of the United States;
(8)changes in the laws, regulations and policies (including the interpretations and enforcement thereof) that affect, or will affect, our business, including those relating to our products or distribution networks, changes in accounting standards, tax laws and regulations, environmental or climate change laws, regulations or accords, trade rules and customs regulations, and the outcome and expense of legal or regulatory proceedings, and any action we may take as a result;
(9)foreign currency fluctuations affecting our results of operations and the value of our foreign assets, the relative prices at which we and our foreign competitors sell products in the same markets and our operating and manufacturing costs outside of the United States;
(10)changes in global or local conditions, including those due to volatility in the global credit and equity markets, natural or man-made disasters, real or perceived epidemics, supply chain challenges, inflation, or increased energy costs, that could affect consumer purchasing, the willingness or ability of consumers to travel and/or purchase our products while traveling, the financial strength of our customers, suppliers or other contract counterparties, our operations, the cost and availability of capital which we may need for new equipment, facilities or acquisitions, the returns that we are able to generate on our pension assets and the resulting impact on funding obligations, the cost and availability of raw materials and the assumptions underlying our critical accounting estimates;
(11)shipment delays, commodity pricing, depletion of inventory and increased production costs resulting from disruptions of operations at any of the facilities that manufacture our products or at our distribution or inventory centers, including disruptions that may be caused by the implementation of information technology initiatives, or by restructurings;
(12)real estate rates and availability, which may affect our ability to increase or maintain the number of retail locations at which we sell our products and the costs associated with our other facilities;
(13)changes in product mix to products which are less profitable;
(14)our ability to acquire, develop or implement new information technology, including operational technology and websites, on a timely basis and within our cost estimates; to maintain continuous operations of our new and existing information technology; and to secure the data and other information that may be stored in such technologies or other systems or media;
(15)our ability to capitalize on opportunities for improved efficiency, such as publicly-announced strategies and restructuring and cost-savings initiatives, and to integrate acquired businesses and realize value therefrom;
(16)consequences attributable to local or international conflicts around the world, as well as from any terrorist action, retaliation and the threat of further action or retaliation;
(17)the timing and impact of acquisitions, investments and divestitures; and
(18)additional factors as described in our filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, including this Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2024.
We assume no responsibility to update forward-looking statements made herein or otherwise.
FY 2023 10-K MD&A
SEC filing source: 0001001250-23-000112.
Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
We manufacture, market and sell beauty products including those in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care categories, which are distributed in approximately 150 countries and territories. The following table is a comparative summary of operating results for fiscal 2023, 2022 and 2021 and reflects the basis of presentation described in Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 22 – Segment Data and Related Information for all periods presented. Products and services that do not meet our definition of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care have been included in the “other” category.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2023 | 2022 | 2021 | ||||||||
| NET SALES | |||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 8,202 | $ | 9,886 | $ | 9,484 | |||||
| Makeup | 4,516 | 4,667 | 4,203 | ||||||||
| Fragrance | 2,512 | 2,508 | 1,926 | ||||||||
| Hair Care | 653 | 631 | 571 | ||||||||
| Other | 54 | 49 | 45 | ||||||||
| 15,937 | 17,741 | 16,229 | |||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (27) | (4) | (14) | ||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 15,910 | $ | 17,737 | $ | 16,215 | |||||
| By Region(1): | |||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 4,518 | $ | 4,623 | $ | 3,797 | |||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 6,225 | 7,681 | 6,946 | ||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 5,194 | 5,437 | 5,486 | ||||||||
| 15,937 | 17,741 | 16,229 | |||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (27) | (4) | (14) | ||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 15,910 | $ | 17,737 | $ | 16,215 | |||||
| OPERATING INCOME (LOSS) | |||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 1,204 | $ | 2,753 | $ | 3,036 | |||||
| Makeup | (22) | 133 | (384) | ||||||||
| Fragrance | 440 | 456 | 215 | ||||||||
| Hair Care | (34) | (28) | (19) | ||||||||
| Other | 6 | — | (2) | ||||||||
| 1,594 | 3,314 | 2,846 | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (85) | (144) | (228) | ||||||||
| Operating income | $ | 1,509 | $ | 3,170 | $ | 2,618 | |||||
| By Region(1): | |||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | (73) | $ | 1,159 | $ | 518 | |||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 843 | 1,360 | 1,335 | ||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 824 | 795 | 993 | ||||||||
| 1,594 | 3,314 | 2,846 | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (85) | (144) | (228) | ||||||||
| Operating income | $ | 1,509 | $ | 3,170 | $ | 2,618 |
(1)The net sales from the Company’s travel retail business are included in the Europe, the Middle East & Africa region, with the exception of net sales of Dr.Jart+ in the travel retail channel that are reflected in Korea in the Asia/Pacific region. Operating income attributable to the travel retail sales included in Europe, the Middle East & Africa is included in that region and in The Americas.
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The following table presents certain consolidated earnings data as a percentage of net sales:
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2023 | 2022 | 2021 | |||||||
| Net sales | 100.0 | % | 100.0 | % | 100.0 | % | |||
| Cost of sales | 28.7 | 24.3 | 23.6 | ||||||
| Gross profit | 71.3 | 75.7 | 76.4 | ||||||
| Operating expenses: | |||||||||
| Selling, general and administrative | 60.2 | 55.7 | 57.8 | ||||||
| Restructuring and other charges | 0.3 | 0.8 | 1.3 | ||||||
| Goodwill impairment | — | — | 0.3 | ||||||
| Impairment of other intangible and long-lived assets | 1.3 | 1.4 | 0.8 | ||||||
| Total operating expenses | 61.8 | 57.9 | 60.2 | ||||||
| Operating income | 9.5 | 17.9 | 16.1 | ||||||
| Interest expense | 1.6 | 0.9 | 1.1 | ||||||
| Interest income and investment income, net | 0.8 | 0.2 | 0.3 | ||||||
| Other components of net periodic benefit cost | (0.1) | — | 0.1 | ||||||
| Other income, net | — | — | 5.2 | ||||||
| Earnings before income taxes | 8.8 | 17.1 | 20.5 | ||||||
| Provision for income taxes | 2.4 | 3.5 | 2.8 | ||||||
| Net earnings | 6.3 | 13.6 | 17.7 | ||||||
| Net earnings attributable to noncontrolling interests | — | — | (0.1) | ||||||
| Net loss (earnings) attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest | — | (0.1) | — | ||||||
| Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | 6.3 | % | 13.5 | % | 17.7 | % | |||
| Not adjusted for differences caused by rounding |
Period-over-period changes in our net sales are generally attributable to the impacts from (i) pricing on our base portfolio, including changes in mix and those due to strategic pricing actions, (ii) volume, including changes driven by the impact of new product innovation, (iii) acquisitions and/or divestitures, and/or (iv) foreign currency translation. The percentages disclosed for these impacts are calculated on an individual basis.
The net sales impact from pricing consists of changes in list prices, due to strategic pricing actions, and mix shifts within and among product categories, geographic regions, brands and distribution channels. The prices at which we sell our products vary by brand, distribution channel (e.g., wholesale or direct-to-consumer) and may also vary by country. Our brands and products cover a broad array of pricing tiers. Prices of skin care and fragrance products are typically higher than makeup and hair care products.
New product innovation includes the introduction of new products, as well as changes related to existing products or where they are sold, including reformulations, regional expansion, repackaging and sets. A product is considered "new innovation" for the twelve-month period following the initial shipment date. Our innovation is launched at different price points than existing products and value derived from innovation may vary from year to year. We continually introduce new products, support new and established products through advertising, merchandising and sampling and phase out existing products that no longer meet the needs of our consumers or our objectives. The economics of developing, producing, launching, supporting and discontinuing products impact our sales and operating performance each period. The introduction of new products often has some cannibalizing effect on sales of existing products, which we take into account in our business planning. The impact of new product introductions, including timing compared to introductions in prior periods, also affects our results.
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Non-GAAP Financial Measures
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period helps investors and others compare operating performance between periods. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. See Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
We operate on a global basis, with the majority of our net sales generated outside the United States. Accordingly, fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates can affect our results of operations. Therefore, we present certain net sales, operating results and diluted net earnings per common share information excluding the effect of foreign currency rate fluctuations to provide a framework for assessing the performance of our underlying business outside the United States. Constant currency information compares results between periods as if exchange rates had remained constant period-over-period. We calculate constant currency information by translating current-period results using monthly average foreign currency exchange rates and adjusting for the period-over-period impact of foreign currency cash flow hedging activities.
Overview
Business Update
We are a leader in prestige beauty, which combines the repeat purchase and relative affordability of consumer goods with high quality products and services. Within prestige beauty, we are diversified by product category, geography, brand, product sub-category, channel, consumer segment and price point. We also leverage consumer analytics and insights with agility by deploying our brands to fast growing and profitable opportunities. These analytics and insights, combined with our creativity, inform our innovation to provide a broad, locally-relevant and inclusive range of prestige products allowing us to compete effectively for a greater share of a consumer's beauty routine.
During the fiscal year ended June 30, 2023, the operating environment continued to be disrupted by the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. Most notably, the pace of recovery in Asia travel retail and mainland China was slower than anticipated. In Hainan, prolonged store closures initially presented a headwind and, thereafter, low levels of conversion occurred when travel resumed. This was compounded by inventory tightening by certain retailers. In Korea, the travel retail business slowed during the transition to post-COVID-19 regulations. In addition, the slower than anticipated resumption of international flights, granting of visas, and organized group tours further challenged the Asia travel retail recovery. As a result, our Asia travel retail business was challenged throughout the fiscal year by the slower than anticipated recovery. In mainland China, our performance in the first half of fiscal 2023 was hindered by low retail traffic as a result of COVID-19-related restrictions and the rise in COVID-19 cases.
Elsewhere, the recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic progressed across markets globally over the course of the fiscal year as restrictions lifted. In the West, our recovery from the pandemic continued with net sales growth in many markets in Europe, the Middle East & Africa and in Latin America. In Asia/Pacific, certain of our markets emerged strongly into recovery across the fiscal year, to deliver net sales growth throughout the region.
In the United States, net sales was unfavorably impacted by the slower than anticipated pace of our improvement at retail and the tightening of inventory in certain retailers in the first half of fiscal 2023 due to inflationary pressures and recession concerns.
Finally, our business was also pressured by the strong U.S dollar, inflation and recession concerns globally.
During fiscal 2023, net sales decreased 10%, reflecting the impacts noted above.
•Our skin care net sales declined 17%, including the unfavorable impact of foreign currency translation of 3%, driven by declines from Estée Lauder, La Mer and Dr.Jart+, primarily reflecting the challenges in our Asia travel retail business throughout the year, as previously discussed. Partially offsetting these declines was growth in every geographic region from The Ordinary, reflecting the success of hero products and new product launches, and from M·A·C, driven by the launch of the Hyper Real line of products.
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•Our makeup net sales decreased 3%, primarily due to the unfavorable impact of foreign currency translation of 4%. Net sales declines from Estée Lauder, TOM FORD and La Mer, primarily reflect the challenges in Asia travel retail throughout the year and in mainland China in the first half of the fiscal year, as previously discussed, were partially offset by higher net sales from M·A·C, primarily driven by the recognition of the previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK-To-M·A·C take back program, and Clinique.
•Our fragrance net sales remained virtually flat as growth driven by Estée Lauder, Le Labo, TOM FORD, Clinique, and Kilian Paris was offset by the impact of the license terminations effective June 30, 2022 related to certain of our designer fragrances of 9% and the unfavorable impact of foreign currency translation of 4%.
•Our hair care net sales increased 3%, driven by higher net sales from The Ordinary reflecting the recent launch of hair care products by the brand, partially offset by the unfavorable impact of foreign currency translation of 3%.
Our global distribution capability and operations allow us to focus on targeted expanded consumer reach wherever consumer demographics and trends are attractive. Our regional organizations, and the expertise of our people there, enable our brands to be more locally and culturally relevant in both product assortment and communications. We are evolving the way we connect with our consumers in stores, online and where they travel, including by expanding our digital and social media presence and the engagement of global and local influencers to amplify brand or product stories. We tailor implementation of our strategy by market to drive consumer engagement and embrace inclusion and cultural diversity. We continuously strengthen our presence in large, image-building core markets, while broadening our presence in emerging markets.
•Net sales in The Americas decreased 2%, primarily driven by a decrease in the United States, reflecting the slower than anticipated pace of our improvement at retail, the tightening of inventory from certain of our retailers during the first half of fiscal 2023 and the impact of the license terminations related to certain of our designer fragrances. Partially offsetting this decrease in The Americas was an increase in net sales in Latin America, led by Brazil and Mexico, driven by growth in makeup, which reflected new product launches and successful performance during key shopping moments.
•Net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa decreased 19%, including the unfavorable impact of foreign currency translation of 3%, driven primarily by lower net sales from our travel retail business reflecting the challenges in our Asia travel retail business as previously discussed.
•Net sales in Asia/Pacific decreased 4%, driven by the unfavorable impact of foreign currency translation of 8% and the challenges stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic, led by our Dr.Jart+ travel retail business in Korea, partially offset by the increase in net sales in Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR and Southeast Asia, reflecting the continued COVID-19 recovery and successful brand activations and new product launches in Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR.
We approach distribution strategically by product category and location and seek to optimize distribution by matching our brands with appropriate opportunities while seeking to maintain high productivity per door. We are expanding our brands in online and travel retail, which we believe will be higher growth channels in the long term. We also focus on brand-building retail activities, technology-driven activations and omnichannel capabilities that enhance the shopping experience for consumers.
•As part of this strategy, we have built a leadership position in the global travel retail channel, that historically allowed us to leverage the robust and growing international passenger traffic. While the Asia travel retail business continued to be pressured by the slower than anticipated recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic, we realized recovery in The Americas and Europe, the Middle East & Africa and we continue to believe that global travel retail is a long-term growth opportunity. Travel retail continues to be an important channel for brand building, particularly for those consumers who experience our brands for the first time while traveling. We continue to expand our strategic presence in travel retail across duty-free locations primarily in airports and downtown stores and increasingly through online retail. We engage consumers at the airport through compelling pop-up activations in non-traditional commercial areas, and we ensure we have appropriate communication and curated assortments for targeted consumer groups. At the same time, travel retail is susceptible to a number of external factors, including fluctuations in currency exchange rates and consumers’ willingness and ability to travel and spend.
•We continue to support e- and m-commerce sites of our own, collaborate with our retailers on their e-commerce sites, and sell through select third-party online malls. We believe our success in the channel is a result of adapting our strategy to meet local market and cultural needs. We also continue to develop and implement omnichannel concepts, virtual try-on tools and compelling content to deliver an integrated consumer experience and better serve consumers as they shop across channels.
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In fiscal 2023, we continued to further integrate social impact and sustainability into our strategy and business operations. Areas of focus include climate and energy; packaging; sourcing; green chemistry and ingredient transparency; inclusion, diversity and equity; employee health and safety; and social investments.
Outlook
We are experiencing a more gradual and prolonged recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic, particularly in our Asia travel retail business. In Asia travel retail, there have been, and are likely to continue to be, impacts on our business in the near-term, from the slower than anticipated depletion of elevated levels of retailer inventory and, therefore, lower replenishment orders, as well as the slower than anticipated resumption of international flights, granting of visas, and organized group tours. Additionally, in Korea, the shipments to duty free retailers were pressured owing to the transition to post-COVID-19 regulations as traveling consumers gradually return. In addition to impacting net sales and profitability, including any unfavorable impacts to our effective tax rate from changes to our geographical mix of earnings, these and other challenges may adversely impact the goodwill and other intangible assets associated with our brands, as well as long-lived assets (i.e. potentially resulting in impairments).
We believe that the best way to increase long-term stockholder value is to continue providing superior products and services in the most efficient and effective manner while recognizing shifts in consumers’ behaviors and shopping practices. Accordingly, our long-term strategy has numerous initiatives across geographic regions, product categories, brands, channels of distribution and functions designed to grow our sales, provide cost efficiencies, leverage our strengths and make us more productive and profitable. We plan to build upon and leverage our history of outstanding creativity and innovation, high quality products and services, and engaging communications while investing for long-term sustainable growth.
We continue to monitor the effects of the global macro environment, including the risk of recession; currency volatility; inflationary pressures; supply chain challenges; social and political issues; regulatory matters, including the imposition of tariffs and sanctions; geopolitical tensions; and global security issues. For example, the strengthening of the U.S. dollar could negatively impact results within Europe, the Middle East & Africa due to pricing pressures on our retail customers and consumers in key international travel retail locations. Additionally, we continue to monitor the geopolitical tensions between the United States and China, which could have a material adverse effect on our business. We are also mindful of inflationary pressures on our cost base and are monitoring the impact on consumer preferences.
As the invasion of Ukraine continues and international sanctions evolve, we have scaled down our operations in Russia. We expect to continue selling a limited selection of products to retailers in Russia. We will continue to monitor the risks and evolving situation that may further affect our business and will adjust our plans accordingly. In fiscal 2023, our net sales in Ukraine and Russia accounted for approximately 1% of consolidated net sales. There are uncertainties related to the future impacts on our business, including possible new sanctions that are difficult to predict due to the high level of geopolitical volatility. On a broader perspective, there could be additional negative impacts to our net sales, earnings, assets and cash flows from such uncertainties. We also note that worsening conditions could exacerbate economic challenges in other countries such as inflationary pressures, energy shortages, recessions or other consequences. Please refer to Risk Factors in Part I, Item 1A of the Company's Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2023, for a more complete discussion of the risks we encounter in our business and industry.
The uncertainty around the timing, speed and duration of the recovery from the adverse impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic, including the impacts on our business in Asia travel retail and mainland China and the other macro challenges we are facing, will continue to affect our ability to grow sales profitably. We believe we can, to some extent, offset the impact of some of these challenges by continually developing and pursuing a diversified strategy with multiple engines of growth and by accelerating initiatives focused on areas of strength, discipline and agility, including continuing to execute upon and benefit from efficiencies attributable to previously approved initiatives under the Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program. As the current situation continues to progress, if economic and social conditions or the degree of uncertainty or volatility worsen, or the adverse conditions previously described are further prolonged, there could be a further negative effect on consumer confidence, demand, spending and willingness or ability to travel and, as a result, on our business. We are continuing to monitor these and other risks that may affect our business.
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Cybersecurity Incident Disclosed in July 2023
As previously disclosed on July 18, 2023, we identified a cybersecurity incident in which an unauthorized third party gained access to some of our systems. After becoming aware of the incident, we proactively took down some of our systems to help secure our business operations and subsequently brought back online core systems within days. While the response to the incident resulted in some disruptions to our business operations, most notably general corporate activities and order processing, our production and sales operations were minimally impacted.
Our investigation into the systems and the unauthorized access is substantially complete. We determined that the unauthorized third party obtained some data from our systems. We are continuing to work to understand the nature and scope of the data obtained, and can confirm, based on the investigation to date, that the data obtained includes some consumer data (such as names, contact information, and dates of birth). We took steps, and continue to take steps, to enhance the security of our systems. We are also continuing to coordinate with law enforcement authorities. We have provided and will continue to provide notification to governmental authorities in certain jurisdictions and we also will notify affected individuals where required by law.
Based on the information available to date, we believe the incident is contained. Based on this information, the incident is not expected to have a material impact on net sales and is expected to be dilutive approximately $.07 to earnings per share for the fiscal 2024 first quarter and full year.
Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program
On August 20, 2020, we announced a two-year restructuring program, Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program (the “PCBA Program”), designed to realign our business to address the dramatic shifts to our distribution landscape and consumer behaviors in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. The PCBA Program was designed to help improve efficiency and effectiveness by rebalancing resources to growth areas of prestige beauty. The PCBA Program’s main areas of focus include accelerating the shift to online with the realignment of our distribution network reflecting freestanding store and certain department store closures, with a focus on North America and Europe, the Middle East & Africa; the reduction in brick-and-mortar point of sale employees and related support staff; and the redesign of our regional branded marketing organizations, plus select opportunities in global brands and functions. This program is expected to position us to better execute our long-term strategy and strengthen our financial flexibility. We approved specific initiatives under the PCBA Program through fiscal 2022 and substantially completed those initiatives through fiscal 2023. For additional information about restructuring and other charges, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 8 – Charges Associated with Restructuring and Other Activities.
Impairment Analysis
We assess goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets at least annually for impairment or more frequently if certain events or circumstances exist.
During the fiscal 2023 second quarter, given the lower-than-expected results in the overall business, we revised the internal forecasts relating to our Smashbox reporting unit. We concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting unit triggered the need for an interim impairment review of its trademark intangible asset. The remaining carrying value of the trademark intangible asset was not recoverable and we recorded an impairment charge of $21 million reducing the carrying value to zero.
During the fiscal 2023 second quarter, the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit experienced lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels that continue to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants, resurgence in cases, and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the reporting unit. In addition, due to macro-economic factors, Dr.Jart+ has experienced lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions. The Too Faced reporting unit experienced lower-than-expected results in key geographic regions and channels coupled with delays in future international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19. As a result, we revised the internal forecasts relating to our Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced reporting units. Additionally, there were increases in the weighted average cost of capital for both reporting units as compared to the prior year annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2022.
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We concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting units, along with increases in the weighted average cost of capital, triggered the need for interim impairment reviews of their trademarks and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of Dr.Jart+’s and Too Faced’s long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, we performed interim impairment tests for the trademarks and a recoverability test for the long-lived assets as of November 30, 2022. We concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible assets exceeded their estimated fair values, which were determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows and recorded an impairment charge of $100 million for Dr.Jart+ and $86 million for Too Faced. We concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets were recoverable. After adjusting the carrying values of the trademarks, we completed interim quantitative impairment tests for goodwill. As the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced reporting units were in excess of their carrying values, we concluded that the carrying amounts of the goodwill were recoverable and did not record a goodwill impairment charge related to these reporting units. The fair values of these reporting units were based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates for trademarks. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair values of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced trademark intangible assets was the weighted average cost of capital, which was 11% and 13%, respectively.
A summary of the trademark impairment charges for fiscal 2023 and the remaining carrying values as of June 30, 2023, for each reporting unit, are as follows:
| Impairment Charges | Carrying Value | ||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | Year Ended June 30, 2023 | As of June 30, 2023 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Reporting Unit | Geographic Region | Trademarks | Goodwill | Trademarks | Goodwill | ||||||||||||||||
| Smashbox | The Americas | $ | 21 | $ | — | $ | — | $ | — | ||||||||||||
| Dr.Jart+ | Asia/Pacific | 100 | — | 325 | 304 | ||||||||||||||||
| Too Faced | The Americas | 86 | — | 186 | 13 | ||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 207 | $ | — | $ | 511 | $ | 317 |
The impairment charges for fiscal 2023 were reflected in the skin care product category for Dr.Jart+ and the makeup product category for Smashbox and Too Faced.
Based on our annual goodwill impairment testing as of April 1, 2023, the fair values of all reporting units, which were determined based on qualitative or quantitative assessments, with material goodwill were substantially in excess of their respective carrying values.
Based on our annual other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2023, the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced trademarks exceeded their carrying values by 12% and 14%, respectively. For the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced trademarks, if all other assumptions are held constant, a decrease of 10% in the estimated future cash flows, inclusive of the terminal value, or an increase of 75 basis points for Dr.Jart+ and 100 basis points for Too Faced in the weighted average cost of capital, would have caused the carrying value of these trademarks to approximate their fair value. The key assumptions used to determine the estimated fair value of the reporting units and their respective trademarks are primarily predicated on the anticipated recovery from the impacts of COVID-19, the success of future new product launches, ability to secure strategic price increases, the achievement of distribution expansion plans, and the realization of cost reduction and other efficiency efforts. If such plans do not materialize, or if there are further challenges in the business environments in which the reporting unit operates, resulting changes in the key assumptions could have negative impacts on the estimated fair value of the reporting units, and their respective trademarks, and it is possible we could recognize additional impairment charges in the future.
For additional information, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
Fiscal 2022 as Compared with Fiscal 2021
Except as disclosed herein, see Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Results of Operations of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2022 for the fiscal 2022 to fiscal 2021 comparative discussion.
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Fiscal 2023 as Compared with Fiscal 2022
NET SALES
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 15,910 | $ | 17,737 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (1,827) | 1,522 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (10) | % | 9 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (7) | % | 10 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales decreased in fiscal 2023, driven by lower net sales from the skin care and makeup product categories, slightly offset by higher net sales in the hair care product category. Fragrance net sales were virtually flat.
Reported net sales decreased in fiscal 2023, reflecting lower net sales from all geographic regions.
During fiscal 2023, our business was challenged by the slower than anticipated recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic, including restrictions in mainland China and the rising number of COVID-19 cases earlier in the fiscal year. This impacted our business in Asia travel retail, including the tightening of inventory by certain of our retailers, as well as the low levels of conversion when travel resumed. This resulted in lower product shipments, compounded by the impact of retailers continuing to reduce inventory. In mainland China, the aforementioned restrictions earlier in the fiscal year negatively impacted our business, however, lower COVID-19 related restrictions in the second half of fiscal 2023, as compared to the second half of fiscal 2022, resulted in increased net sales in the second half of fiscal 2023.
The fiscal 2023 reported net sales decrease was impacted by approximately $629 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales decreased 10% in fiscal 2023, driven by the decrease from volume of 7%, the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 4% and the net impact from acquisitions, divestitures and brand closures of 1%. Partially offsetting these decreases was an increase from pricing of 1%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix.
Returns associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they result from activities that are deemed a Company-wide initiative to redesign, resize and reorganize select corporate functions and go-to-market structures. Accordingly, the following discussions of Net sales by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2023 and fiscal 2022 impacts of returns associated with restructuring and other activities of approximately $27 million and $4 million, respectively.
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Product Categories
Skin Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 8,202 | $ | 9,886 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (1,684) | 402 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (17) | % | 4 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (14) | % | 4 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported skin care net sales decreased in fiscal 2023, primarily driven by lower net sales from Estée Lauder, La Mer, Dr.Jart+, Clinique and Origins, combined, of approximately $1,830 million, that were mostly attributable to the aforementioned challenges in Asia travel retail.
Partially offsetting these decreases in skin care net sales in fiscal 2023 were higher net sales from The Ordinary and M·A·C, combined, of approximately $133 million. The increase in net sales from The Ordinary was driven by growth in every geographic region, reflecting success of hero products and new product launches. The increase in net sales from M·A·C was primarily driven by the fiscal 2023 launch of the Hyper Real line of products.
The skin care net sales decrease was impacted by approximately $337 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported skin care net sales decreased 17% in fiscal 2023, driven by the decrease from volume of 13% and the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 3%. The impact from pricing was flat period-over-period, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions offset by changes in mix.
Makeup
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 4,516 | $ | 4,667 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (151) | 464 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (3) | % | 11 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | — | % | 12 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported makeup net sales decreased in fiscal 2023, primarily driven by lower net sales from Estée Lauder, TOM FORD and La Mer, combined, of approximately $271 million, primarily reflecting the aforementioned challenges in Asia travel retail and mainland China, as well as the unfavorable impacts of foreign currency translation.
Partially offsetting these decreases in makeup net sales in fiscal 2023 was an increase in net sales from M·A·C and Clinique, combined, of approximately $114 million. The increase in net sales from M·A·C was driven by the recognition of previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK-To-M·A·C take back program, as well as growth in the face, lip, and eye subcategories. Net sales from Clinique increased, benefiting from solid performance in the lip, face and eye subcategories.
The makeup net sales decrease was impacted by approximately $166 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
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Reported makeup net sales decreased 3% in fiscal 2023, driven by the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 4% and the decrease from volume of 3%. Partially offsetting these decreases was an increase from pricing of 3% due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix.
Fragrance
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 2,512 | $ | 2,508 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 4 | 582 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | — | % | 30 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 4 | % | 32 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported fragrance net sales remained virtually flat in fiscal 2023, driven by higher net sales from Estée Lauder, Le Labo, TOM FORD, Clinique, and Kilian Paris, combined, of approximately $261 million. Net sales from Estée Lauder increased, reflecting a successful campaign for Beautiful Magnolia and successful performance during holiday and key shopping moments. Net sales from Le Labo increased, reflecting the continued success of hero product franchises, targeted expanded consumer reach, successful performance during holiday and key shopping moments and new product launches. The increase in net sales from TOM FORD reflected the continued success of Signature and Private Blend fragrances, expanded distribution, new product launches and successful performance during holiday and key shopping moments. Net sales from Clinique increased, primarily reflecting growth in the Clinique Happy franchise line of products. Net sales from Kilian Paris increased, reflecting new product launches and expanded distribution.
Offsetting these increases in fragrance net sales was the impact of the license terminations related to certain of our designer fragrances effective June 30, 2022 and lower net sales from Jo Malone London, combined, of approximately $261 million. The decrease in net sales from Jo Malone London primarily reflected the unfavorable impact of foreign currency translation.
Fragrance net sales was impacted by approximately $108 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported fragrance net sales remained virtually flat in fiscal 2023, driven by the increase in volume of 10% and the increase from pricing of 4%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix. Offsetting these increases were the impact from the license terminations of certain of our designer fragrances of 9% and the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 4%.
Hair Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 653 | $ | 631 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 22 | 60 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 3 | % | 11 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 6 | % | 12 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported hair care net sales increased in fiscal 2023, driven by higher net sales from The Ordinary due to the recent launch of hair care products.
The hair care net sales increase was impacted by approximately $16 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
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Reported hair care net sales increased 3% in fiscal 2023, driven by an increase from pricing of 5%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix, and the increase in volume of 1%. Partially offsetting these increases was the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 3%.
Geographic Regions
We strategically time our new product launches by geographic market, which may account for differences in regional sales growth.
The Americas
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 4,518 | $ | 4,623 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (105) | 826 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (2) | % | 22 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (3) | % | 21 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales in The Americas decreased in fiscal 2023, primarily driven by a decrease in net sales in the United States of approximately $133 million, reflecting the slower than anticipated pace of our improvement at retail, the tightening of inventory from certain of our retailers in the first half of the fiscal year and the impact of the license terminations related to certain of our designer fragrances. Partially offsetting this decrease in The Americas in fiscal 2023 was an increase in net sales in Latin America of approximately $51 million, led by Brazil and Mexico, driven by growth in makeup, which reflected new product launches and successful performance during key shopping moments.
The net sales decrease in The Americas included approximately $11 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in The Americas decreased 2% in fiscal 2023, driven by the decrease from volume of 4% and the net impact from acquisitions, divestitures and brand closures of 2%. Partially offsetting these decreases was an increase from pricing of 3%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix.
Europe, the Middle East & Africa
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 6,225 | $ | 7,681 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (1,456) | 735 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (19) | % | 11 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (16) | % | 12 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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Reported net sales decreased in Europe, the Middle East & Africa in fiscal 2023, primarily driven by lower net sales from our travel retail business, and to a significantly lesser extent, Russia and the United Kingdom, combined, of approximately $1,551 million. The decrease in net sales from our travel retail business reflects the aforementioned challenges in Asia travel retail. Net sales from Russia decreased in fiscal 2023, as we sold a limited selection of products to certain retailers, and completed the closure of all of our freestanding stores during the first half of fiscal 2023. The decrease in net sales from the United Kingdom in fiscal 2023 is driven by the unfavorable impact of foreign currency translation, partially offset by brick-and-mortar recovery, reflecting an increase in traffic, compared to the prior year.
Partially offsetting the decreases in net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa in fiscal 2023 were increases in net sales from Turkey and India, combined, of approximately $55 million. The net sales increase in Turkey and India was driven by growth across all product categories.
The net sales decrease in Europe, the Middle East & Africa included approximately $205 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa decreased 19% in fiscal 2023, driven by the decrease from volume of 15%, the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 3%, a decrease from pricing of 1%, due to the unfavorable impact from changes in mix, partially offset by strategic pricing actions, and the impact from the license terminations of certain of our designer fragrances of 1%.
Asia/Pacific
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 5,194 | $ | 5,437 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (243) | (49) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (4) | % | (1) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 4 | % | (1) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales decreased in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2023, primarily driven by the unfavorable impact of foreign currency of 8%. The decrease in net sales, including the unfavorable impact of foreign currency, was primarily driven by mainland China and Korea, led by the Dr.Jart+ travel retail business in Korea, combined, of approximately $371 million. The decrease in net sales in mainland China reflects the unfavorable impact of foreign currency translation as well as the aforementioned challenges in mainland China in the first half of the fiscal year. The decrease in net sales in our Dr.Jart+ travel retail business in Korea reflects the aforementioned challenges in Asia travel retail.
Partially offsetting the net sales decrease in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2023 were increases in Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR and Southeast Asia, combined, of approximately $136 million, reflecting the continued COVID-19 recovery. Also contributing to the net sales increase in Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR were successful brand activations and new product launches.
The net sales decrease in Asia/Pacific included approximately $435 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in Asia/Pacific decreased 4% in fiscal 2023, driven by the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 8%. Partially offsetting this decrease was an increase from pricing of 2%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix, and the increase in volume of 1%.
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GROSS MARGIN
Gross margin in fiscal 2023 decreased to 71.3% as compared with 75.7% in fiscal 2022.
| Fiscal 2023 vs. Fiscal 2022Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points | |
|---|---|
| Mix of business | (225) |
| Obsolescence charges | (100) |
| Manufacturing costs and other | (145) |
| Foreign exchange transactions | 30 |
| Total | (440) |
The decrease in gross margin in fiscal 2023 reflected unfavorable impacts from changes in our mix of business, higher manufacturing costs and other, and higher obsolescence charges. The unfavorable impact from our mix of business is primarily driven by category mix, driven by the decrease in skin care net sales which typically have higher margins than other product categories, as well as higher costs associated with promotional items. Manufacturing costs and other increased, driven by higher expenses within our inventory deferrals recognized during the current year reflecting lower production volume due to lower demand and higher costs for freight and material commodities. The unfavorable impact from obsolescence charges is primarily due to excess inventory on hand and increased levels of inventory destruction and reserves driven by lower demand that resulted in lower product shipments.
OPERATING EXPENSES
Operating expenses as a percentage of net sales in fiscal 2023 increased to 61.8% as compared with 57.9% in fiscal 2022.
| Fiscal 2023 vs. Fiscal 2022Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points | |
|---|---|
| General and administrative expenses | (80) |
| Advertising, merchandising, sampling and product development | (190) |
| Selling | (90) |
| Shipping | (40) |
| Store operating costs | (50) |
| Stock-based compensation | 30 |
| Foreign exchange transactions | 10 |
| Subtotal | (410) |
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | 50 |
| Other intangible asset impairments | 10 |
| Changes in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | (40) |
| Total | (390) |
The unfavorable change in operating expense margin in fiscal 2023 reflected unfavorable impacts relating to advertising, merchandising, sampling and product development, selling expenses, general and administrative expenses, and shipping expenses, driven by the decrease in net sales.
Operating expenses in total decreased $425 million in fiscal 2023, at a slower pace as compared to the decrease in net sales, as we continued to invest in our business, particularly in advertising, merchandising sampling and product development, as well as in selling, while also decreasing certain expenses through disciplined expense management. Additionally, general and administrative expenses decreased in fiscal 2023, driven by lower employee incentive compensation.
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OPERATING RESULTS
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 1,509 | $ | 3,170 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (1,661) | 552 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (52) | % | 21 | % | |||
| Operating Margin | 9.5 | % | 17.9 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | (48) | % | 14 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
The reported operating margin for fiscal 2023 decreased from the prior year, primarily driven by the decreases in net sales, gross margin and operating expense margin, discussed above.
Charges associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they are centrally directed and controlled, are not included in internal measures of product category or geographic region performance and result from activities that are deemed Company-wide initiatives to redesign, resize and reorganize select areas of the business. Accordingly, the following discussions of Operating income by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2023 and 2022 impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities of $85 million, or approximately 1% of net sales and $144 million, or approximately 1% of net sales, respectively.
Product Categories
Skin Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 1,204 | $ | 2,753 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (1,549) | (283) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (56) | % | (9) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | (55) | % | (8) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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Reported skin care operating income decreased in fiscal 2023 reflecting lower operating results from Estée Lauder, La Mer, Clinique and Origins, combined, of approximately $1,556 million, primarily driven by decreases in net sales, partially offset by disciplined advertising and promotional expense management, as well as an unfavorable year-over-year impact for the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options of $75 million relating to the fiscal 2021 increase in our investment in DECIEM. Also contributing to the decrease in skin care operating income from Estée Lauder, La Mer and Clinique was a higher cost of sales. The increase in cost of sales from Estée Lauder was due in part to higher manufacturing costs and obsolescence charges. The increase in cost of sales from La Mer was due in part to higher manufacturing costs and the increase in cost of sales from Clinique was due in part to higher costs for promotional items. The decrease in operating income from Origins was also partially offset by a lower cost of sales due to the net sales decrease and lower selling expenses due to the closure of freestanding stores during fiscal 2023.
Partially offsetting the decrease in skin care operating income in fiscal 2023 was the favorable year-over-year impact of other intangible asset impairments related to Dr.Jart+ and GLAMGLOW of $141 million, combined, and lower employee incentive compensation compared to the prior year.
Makeup
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income (loss) | $ | (22) | $ | 133 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (155) | 517 | |||||
| (100+)% | 100+% | ||||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | (35) | % | 100+% |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported makeup operating income decreased in fiscal 2023, reflecting lower results from Estée Lauder, TOM FORD and La Mer, combined, of approximately $191 million, primarily driven by a decrease in net sales, as well as the fiscal 2023 second quarter other intangible asset impairments related to Too Faced and Smashbox of $107 million, combined. The decrease in operating income from TOM FORD also reflected a higher cost of sales, due in part to higher manufacturing costs and higher obsolescence charges. Also contributing to the decrease in operating income from La Mer was higher advertising and promotional activities, partially offset by a lower cost of sales due to lower net sales compared to the prior year. Partially offsetting the decrease in operating income from Estée Lauder was disciplined advertising and promotional expense management.
Partially offsetting the decrease in makeup operating income in fiscal 2023 were higher results from M·A·C, primarily driven by the recognition of previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK-To-M·A·C take back program and lower store operating costs, partially offset by an increase in cost of sales, as well as lower employee incentive compensation compared to the prior year.
Fragrance
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 440 | $ | 456 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (16) | 241 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (4) | % | 100+% |
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Reported fragrance operating income decreased in fiscal 2023, reflecting lower results from Jo Malone London and the impact of license terminations related to certain of our designer fragrances effective June 30, 2022, combined, of approximately $98 million. The lower results from Jo Malone London were driven by a decrease in net sales, higher cost of sales, due, in part, to an increase in promotional items, and higher selling expenses due to increased staffing costs compared to the prior year.
Partially offsetting the decrease in fragrance operating income were higher results from Estée Lauder and Le Labo, combined, of approximately $83 million, driven by increases in net sales. Also contributing to the increase in operating income from Estée Lauder was disciplined advertising and promotional expense management, partially offset by a higher cost of sales. Partially offsetting the increase in operating income from Le Labo was higher advertising and promotional activities, higher selling expenses due to increased staffing costs compared to the prior year and higher store operating costs. Also partially offsetting the decrease in fragrance operating income was lower employee incentive compensation compared to the prior year.
Hair Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating loss | $ | (34) | $ | (28) | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (6) | (9) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (21) | % | (47) | % |
Reported hair care operating results decreased in fiscal 2023, primarily driven by lower results from Aveda and Bumble and bumble, combined, of approximately $53 million. The lower results from Aveda reflected a higher cost of sales, higher advertising and promotional activities to support the brand's expansion into mainland China during fiscal 2023 and key shopping moments and a decrease in net sales. Operating results from Bumble and bumble decreased, primarily driven by higher cost of sales.
Partially offsetting the decrease in hair care operating income was lower employee incentive compensation compared to the prior year.
Geographic Regions
The Americas
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | (73) | $ | 1,159 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (1,232) | 641 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (100+)% | 100+% | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | (95) | % | 60 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported operating results decreased in The Americas in fiscal 2023, primarily reflecting lower operating results from North America of approximately $1,226 million. The decrease in operating results in North America was primarily driven by the United States, reflecting lower intercompany royalty income of $670 million compared to the prior year, driven by a decrease in net sales in our travel retail business, higher cost of sales driven by higher manufacturing costs and obsolescence charges, a decrease in net sales, and the unfavorable year-over-year impact of other intangible asset impairments of $96 million. Also contributing to the decrease in operating income in North America was the unfavorable year-over-year impact of the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options of $77 million relating to the fiscal 2021 increase in our investment in DECIEM.
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Europe, the Middle East & Africa
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 843 | $ | 1,360 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (517) | 25 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (38) | % | 2 | % |
Reported operating income decreased in Europe, the Middle East & Africa in fiscal 2023, primarily driven by lower results from our travel retail business, primarily driven by the decrease in net sales, partially offset by the associated decrease in intercompany royalty expense to The Americas of $670 million.
Asia/Pacific
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 824 | $ | 795 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 29 | (198) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 4 | % | (20) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from the prior year adjusting for the impact of other intangible asset impairments | (10) | % | 3 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported operating income increased in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2023, primarily reflecting a favorable year-over-year impact of other intangible asset impairments of $130 million and higher results from Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR and Southeast Asia, combined of approximately $67 million, primarily driven by an increase in net sales, partially offset by a higher cost of sales.
Partially offsetting the increase in operating income in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2023 were lower operating results in mainland China, Korea and Japan, combined, of approximately $149 million. The lower operating results in mainland China were driven by a decrease in net sales and an increase in cost of sales reflecting higher obsolescence charges and an increase in promotional items, partially offset by disciplined advertising and promotional expense management and lower selling costs compared to the prior year. Operating income in Korea decreased, led by Dr.Jart+, due to decreases in net sales, partially offset by lower selling expenses and cost of sales. Operating income in Japan decreased, driven by the decrease in net sales, partially offset by lower selling expenses.
INTEREST AND INVESTMENT INCOME
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| Interest expense | $ | 255 | $ | 167 | |||
| Interest income and investment income, net | $ | 131 | $ | 30 |
Interest expense increased in fiscal 2023, primarily reflecting a higher debt balance, due in part to the financing of our acquisition of the TOM FORD brand, including the issuance of commercial paper primarily in the second half of fiscal 2023, and the issuance of Senior Notes in May 2023 and higher interest rates compared to the prior year. Interest income and investment income, net increased, primarily reflecting higher interest rates compared to the prior year.
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OTHER INCOME, NET
On May 18, 2021, we acquired additional shares in DECIEM, a Toronto-based skin care company, for $1,092 million in cash, including proceeds from the issuance of debt. DECIEM is a multi-brand beauty company with a brand portfolio that includes The Ordinary and NIOD. We originally acquired a minority interest in DECIEM in June 2017. The minority interest was accounted for as an equity method investment, which had a carrying value of $65 million at the acquisition date. The acquisition of additional shares increased our fully diluted equity interest from approximately 29% to approximately 76% and was considered a step acquisition. On a fully diluted basis, the DECIEM stock options approximated 4% of the total capital structure. Accordingly, for purposes of determining the consideration transferred, we excluded the DECIEM stock options, which resulted in an increase in our post-acquisition undiluted equity interest from approximately 30% to approximately 78% and the post-acquisition undiluted equity interest of the remaining noncontrolling interest holders of approximately 22%. We remeasured the previously held equity method investment to its fair value of $913 million, resulting in the recognition of a gain of $848 million. The gain on our previously held equity method investment is included in Other income, net in the accompanying consolidated statements of earnings for the year ended June 30, 2021. As part of the increase in our investment, we were granted the right to purchase ("Call Option"), and granted the remaining investors a right to sell to us ("Put Option"), the remaining interests after a three-year period, with a purchase price based on the future performance of DECIEM (the "net Put (Call) Option"). As a result of this redemption feature, we recorded redeemable noncontrolling interest, at its acquisition‑date fair value, that is classified as mezzanine equity in the accompanying consolidated balance sheets at June 30, 2021. The accounting for the DECIEM business combination was finalized during the fiscal 2022 third quarter.
See Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 5 – Business and Asset Acquisitions for additional information.
PROVISION FOR INCOME TAXES
The provision for income taxes represents U.S. federal, foreign, state and local income taxes. The effective rate differs from the federal statutory rate primarily due to the effect of state and local income taxes, the tax impact of share-based compensation, the taxation of foreign income and income tax reserve adjustments, which represent changes in our net liability for unrecognized tax benefits including tax settlements and lapses of the applicable statutes of limitations. Our effective tax rate will change from year-to-year based on recurring and non-recurring factors including the geographical mix of earnings, enacted tax legislation, state and local income taxes, tax reserve adjustments, the tax impact of share-based compensation, the interaction of various global tax strategies and the impact from certain acquisitions.
The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act (the “TCJA”) included broad and complex changes to the U.S. tax code that impacted our accounting and reporting for income taxes. See Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 9 – Income Taxes for further discussion relating to the TCJA.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| Earnings before income taxes: | $ | 1,397 | $ | 3,036 | |||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes | 27.7 | % | 20.7 | % | |||
| Basis-point change from prior year | 700 | 700 | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes | 26.5 | % | 21.3 | % |
(1)Excludes the net impact on the effective tax rates of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, other intangible asset impairments and changes in the fair value of acquisition-related stock options.
The effective tax rate for fiscal 2023 increased approximately 700 basis points. The increase was primarily attributable to a higher effective tax rate on the Company's foreign operations of approximately 720 basis points, due to the Company's geographical mix of earnings for fiscal 2023.
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NET EARNINGS ATTRIBUTABLE TO THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions, except per share data) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | $ | 1,006 | $ | 2,390 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (1,384) | (480) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (58) | % | (17) | % | |||
| Diluted net earnings per common share | $ | 2.79 | $ | 6.55 | |||
| % Change from prior year | (57) | % | (16) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in diluted net earnings per common share from the prior year adjusting for the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | (52) | % | 12 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” below for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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RECONCILIATIONS OF NON-GAAP FINANCIAL MEASURES
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period, or do not reflect the Company’s underlying ongoing business, provides transparency for such items and helps investors and others compare and analyze our operating performance from period to period. In the future, we expect to incur charges or adjustments similar in nature to those presented below; however, the impact to the Company’s results in a given period may be highly variable and difficult to predict. Our non-GAAP financial measures may not be comparable to similarly titled measures used by, or determined in a manner consistent with, other companies. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. The following tables present Net sales, Operating income and Diluted net earnings per common share adjusted to exclude the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities; other intangible asset impairments; the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options; and the effects of foreign currency translation. The following tables provide reconciliations between these non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
| Year Ended June 30 | % Change | % Change in Constant Currency | ||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions, except per share data) | 2023 | 2022 | Variance | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales, as reported | $ | 15,910 | $ | 17,737 | $ | (1,827) | (10) | % | (7) | % | ||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | 27 | 4 | 23 | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales, as adjusted | $ | 15,937 | $ | 17,741 | $ | (1,804) | (10) | % | (7) | % | ||||||||
| Operating income, as reported | $ | 1,509 | $ | 3,170 | $ | (1,661) | (52) | % | (49) | % | ||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | 85 | 144 | (59) | |||||||||||||||
| Other intangible asset impairments | 207 | 241 | (34) | |||||||||||||||
| Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | 22 | (55) | 77 | |||||||||||||||
| Operating income, as adjusted | $ | 1,823 | $ | 3,500 | $ | (1,677) | (48) | % | (44) | % | ||||||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share, as reported | $ | 2.79 | $ | 6.55 | $ | (3.76) | (57) | % | (54) | % | ||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | .18 | .31 | (.13) | |||||||||||||||
| Other intangible asset impairments | .44 | .50 | (.06) | |||||||||||||||
| Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options (less portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest) | .05 | (.12) | .17 | |||||||||||||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share, as adjusted | $ | 3.46 | $ | 7.24 | $ | (3.78) | (52) | % | (49) | % |
As diluted net earnings per common share, as adjusted, is used as a measure of the Company’s performance, we consider the impact of current and deferred income taxes when calculating the per-share impact of each of the reconciling items.
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The following table reconciles the change in net sales by product category and geographic region, as reported, to the change in net sales excluding the effects of foreign currency translation:
| As Reported | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year Ended June 30 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | Variance | Impact of foreign currency translation | Variance, in constant currency | % Change, as reported | % Change, in constant currency | |||||||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 8,202 | $ | 9,886 | $ | (1,684) | $ | 337 | $ | (1,347) | (17) | % | (14) | % | ||||||||||||
| Makeup | 4,516 | 4,667 | (151) | 166 | 15 | (3) | — | |||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 2,512 | 2,508 | 4 | 108 | 112 | — | 4 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | 653 | 631 | 22 | 16 | 38 | 3 | 6 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Other | 54 | 49 | 5 | 2 | 7 | 10 | 14 | |||||||||||||||||||
| 15,937 | 17,741 | (1,804) | 629 | (1,175) | (10) | (7) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (27) | (4) | (23) | — | (23) | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 15,910 | $ | 17,737 | $ | (1,827) | $ | 629 | $ | (1,198) | (10) | % | (7) | % | ||||||||||||
| By Region: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 4,518 | $ | 4,623 | $ | (105) | $ | (11) | $ | (116) | (2) | % | (3) | % | ||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 6,225 | 7,681 | (1,456) | 205 | (1,251) | (19) | (16) | |||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 5,194 | 5,437 | (243) | 435 | 192 | (4) | 4 | |||||||||||||||||||
| 15,937 | 17,741 | (1,804) | 629 | (1,175) | (10) | (7) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (27) | (4) | (23) | — | (23) | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 15,910 | $ | 17,737 | $ | (1,827) | $ | 629 | $ | (1,198) | (10) | % | (7) | % |
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The following tables reconcile the change in operating results by product category and geographic region, as reported, to the change in operating income excluding the impact of other intangible asset impairments and the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options:
| As Reported | Add: Changes in Other intangible asset impairments | Add: Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | Variance, as adjusted | % Change, as reported | % Change, as adjusted | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year Ended June 30 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | 2023 | 2022 | Variance | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 1,204 | $ | 2,753 | $ | (1,549) | $ | (141) | $ | 75 | $ | (1,615) | (56)% | (55)% | ||||||||||||||||
| Makeup | (22) | 133 | (155) | 107 | 2 | (46) | (100+) | (35) | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 440 | 456 | (16) | — | — | (16) | (4) | (4) | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | (34) | (28) | (6) | — | — | (6) | (21) | (21) | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| Other | 6 | — | 6 | — | — | 6 | 100 | 100 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| 1,594 | 3,314 | $ | (1,720) | $ | (34) | $ | 77 | $ | (1,677) | (52)% | (48)% | |||||||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (85) | (144) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 1,509 | $ | 3,170 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| By Region: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | (73) | $ | 1,159 | $ | (1,232) | $ | 96 | $ | 77 | $ | (1,059) | (100+)% | (95)% | ||||||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 843 | 1,360 | (517) | — | — | (517) | (38) | (38) | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 824 | 795 | 29 | (130) | — | (101) | 4 | (10) | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| 1,594 | 3,314 | $ | (1,720) | $ | (34) | $ | 77 | $ | (1,677) | (52)% | (48)% | |||||||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (85) | (144) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 1,509 | $ | 3,170 |
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FINANCIAL CONDITION
LIQUIDITY AND CAPITAL RESOURCES
Overview
Our principal sources of funds historically have been cash flows from operations, borrowings pursuant to our commercial paper program, borrowings from the issuance of long-term debt and committed and uncommitted credit lines provided by banks and other lenders in the United States and abroad. At June 30, 2023, we had cash and cash equivalents of $4,029 million compared with $3,957 million at June 30, 2022. Our cash and cash equivalents are maintained at a number of financial institutions. To mitigate the risk of uninsured balances, we select financial institutions based on their credit ratings and financial strength, and we perform ongoing evaluations of these institutions to limit our concentration risk exposure. During the fourth quarter of fiscal 2023, we temporarily reduced our holdings of bank deposits and increased our allocation of government money market funds, due to stresses in the global banking system.
Based on past performance and current expectations, we believe that cash on hand, cash generated from operations, available credit lines and access to credit markets will be adequate to support seasonal working capital needs, currently planned business operations, information technology enhancements, capital expenditures, acquisitions, dividends, stock repurchases, restructuring initiatives, commitments and other contractual obligations on both a near-term and long-term basis.
The TCJA resulted in the Transition Tax on unrepatriated earnings of our foreign subsidiaries and changed the tax law in ways that present opportunities to repatriate cash without additional U.S. federal income tax. As a result, we changed our indefinite reinvestment assertion related to certain foreign earnings. As explained in further detail in Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 9 – Income Taxes, during the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter, we changed our assertion regarding our ability and intent to indefinitely reinvest undistributed earnings from certain foreign subsidiaries. We continue to analyze the indefinite reinvestment assertion on our remaining applicable foreign earnings. We do not believe that continuing to reinvest these remaining applicable foreign earnings impairs our ability to meet our domestic debt or working capital obligations. If these reinvested earnings were repatriated into the United States as dividends, we would be subject to state income taxes and applicable foreign taxes in certain jurisdictions.
Inflation impacted our operating results during fiscal 2023 and we expect it to continue. Generally, we have plans to introduce new products at higher prices, increase prices and implement other operating efficiencies which we expect to offset some of these cost increases.
Credit Ratings
Changes in our credit ratings will likely result in changes in our borrowing costs. Our credit ratings also impact the cost of our revolving credit facility. Downgrades in our credit ratings may reduce our ability to issue commercial paper and/or long-term debt and would likely increase the relative costs of borrowing. A credit rating is not a recommendation to buy, sell, or hold securities, is subject to revision or withdrawal at any time by the assigning rating organization, and should be evaluated independently of any other rating. As of August 11, 2023, our long-term debt is rated A+ with a negative outlook by Standard & Poor’s and A1 with a stable outlook by Moody’s.
Debt and Access to Liquidity
Total debt as a percent of total capitalization (excluding noncontrolling interests) increased to 59% at June 30, 2023 from 49% at June 30, 2022, primarily due to the increase in total debt, reflecting the financing of our acquisition of the TOM FORD brand, including the issuance of commercial paper primarily in the second half of fiscal 2023, and the issuance of Senior Notes in May 2023.
For further information regarding our current and long-term debt and available financing, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 11 – Debt.
Cash Flows
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2023 | 2022 | |||||
| Net cash provided by operating activities | $ | 1,731 | $ | 3,040 | |||
| Net cash used for investing activities | $ | (3,217) | $ | (945) | |||
| Net cash provided by (used for) financing activities | $ | 1,590 | $ | (3,036) |
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The change in net cash flows provided by operating activities primarily reflected lower earnings before tax, excluding non-cash items, partially offset by the favorable change in working capital, reflecting a favorable change in inventory and promotional merchandise and accounts receivable, partially offset by lower accounts payable due to timing of payments and lower other accrued and noncurrent liabilities, which includes the settlement of net investment hedges.
The change in net cash flows used for investing activities was primarily driven by cash paid in connection with the acquisition of the TOM FORD brand during the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter and also reflects a favorable impact from the settlement of net investment hedges, which is offset by the unfavorable change in other accrued liabilities as discussed above.
The change in net cash flows provided by (used for) financing activities primarily reflected lower treasury stock purchases compared to the prior year, an increase in debt due to the issuance of Senior Notes in May 2023 and the issuance of commercial paper in the second half of fiscal 2023, due in part to finance our acquisition of the TOM FORD brand, partially offset by an increase in repayments of long-term debt.
See Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Financial Condition of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2022 for the fiscal 2022 to fiscal 2021 comparative discussions.
Dividends
For a summary of quarterly cash dividends declared per share on our Class A and Class B Common Stock during the year ended June 30, 2023 and through August 11, 2023, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 17 – Common Stock.
Pension and Post-retirement Plan Funding
Several factors influence the annual funding requirements for our pension plans. For our domestic trust-based noncontributory qualified defined benefit pension plan (“U.S. Qualified Plan”), we seek to maintain appropriate funded percentages. For any future contributions to the U.S. Qualified Plan, we would seek to contribute an amount or amounts that would not be less than the minimum required by the Employee Retirement Income Security Act of 1974, as amended, (“ERISA”) and subsequent pension legislation, and would not be more than the maximum amount deductible for income tax purposes. For each international plan, our funding policies are determined by local laws and regulations. In addition, amounts necessary to fund future obligations under these plans could vary depending on estimated assumptions. The effect of our pension plan funding on future operating results will depend on economic conditions, employee demographics, mortality rates, the number of participants electing to take lump-sum distributions, investment performance and funding decisions.
For the U.S. Qualified Plan, we maintain an investment strategy of matching the duration of a substantial portion of the plan assets with the duration of the underlying plan liabilities. This strategy assists us in maintaining our overall funded ratio. For fiscal 2023 and 2022, we met or exceeded all contribution requirements under ERISA regulations for the U.S. Qualified Plan. We expect to make a $50 million discretionary contribution to the U.S. Qualified Plan in the first quarter of fiscal 2024. As we continue to monitor the funded status, we may decide to make additional cash contributions to the U.S. Qualified Plan or our post-retirement medical plan in the United States during fiscal 2024.
The following table summarizes actual and expected benefit payments and contributions for our other pension and post-retirement plans:
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | Expected 2024 | 2023 | 2022 | ||||||||
| Non-qualified domestic noncontributory pension plan benefit payments | $ | 22 | $ | 14 | $ | 18 | |||||
| International defined benefit pension plan contributions | $ | 28 | $ | 35 | $ | 38 | |||||
| Post-retirement plan benefit payments | $ | 11 | $ | 13 | $ | 11 |
Commitments and Contingencies
For a discussion of our contingencies, see to Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 16 – Commitments and Contingencies (Contractual Obligations).
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Contractual Obligations
For a discussion of our contractual obligations, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 16 – Commitments and Contingencies (Contractual Obligations).
Derivative Financial Instruments and Hedging Activities
For a discussion of our derivative financial instruments and hedging activities, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Derivative Financial Instruments.
Foreign Exchange Risk Management
For a discussion of foreign exchange risk management, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Derivative Financial Instruments (Cash Flow Hedges, Net Investment Hedges).
Credit Risk
For a discussion of credit risk, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Derivative Financial Instruments (Credit Risk).
Market Risk
We address certain financial exposures through a controlled program of market risk management that includes the use of foreign currency forward contracts to reduce the effects of fluctuating foreign currency exchange rates and to mitigate the change in fair value of specific assets and liabilities on the balance sheet. To perform a sensitivity analysis of our foreign currency forward contracts, we assess the change in fair values from the impact of hypothetical changes in foreign currency exchange rates. A hypothetical 10% weakening of the U.S. dollar against the foreign exchange rates for the currencies in our portfolio would have resulted in a net decrease in the fair value of our portfolio of approximately $265 million and $259 million as of June 30, 2023 and 2022, respectively. This potential change does not consider our underlying foreign currency exposures.
We also enter into cross-currency swap contracts to hedge the impact of foreign currency changes on certain intercompany foreign currency denominated debt. A hypothetical 10% weakening of the U.S. dollar against the foreign exchange rates for the currencies in our cross-currency swap contracts would have resulted in a net decrease in the fair value of our cross-currency swap contracts of approximately $49 million as of June 30, 2023.
In addition, we enter into interest rate derivatives to manage the effects of interest rate movements on our aggregate liability portfolio, including future debt issuances. Based on a hypothetical 100 basis point increase in interest rates, the estimated fair value of our interest rate derivatives would decrease by approximately $55 million and $41 million as of June 30, 2023 and 2022, respectively.
Our sensitivity analysis represents an estimate of reasonably possible net losses that would be recognized on our portfolio of derivative financial instruments assuming hypothetical movements in future market rates and is not necessarily indicative of actual results, which may or may not occur. It does not represent the maximum possible loss or any expected loss that may occur, since actual future gains and losses will differ from those estimated, based upon actual fluctuations in market rates, operating exposures, and the timing thereof, and changes in our portfolio of derivative financial instruments during the year. We believe, however, that any such loss incurred would be offset by the effects of market rate movements on the respective underlying transactions for which the derivative financial instrument was intended.
OFF-BALANCE SHEET ARRANGEMENTS
We do not maintain any off-balance sheet arrangements, transactions, obligations or other relationships with unconsolidated entities that would be expected to have a material current or future effect upon our financial condition or results of operations.
RECENTLY ISSUED ACCOUNTING STANDARDS
Refer to Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies for discussion regarding the impact of accounting standards that were recently issued but not yet effective, on our consolidated financial statements.
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CRITICAL ACCOUNTING POLICIES AND ESTIMATES
The discussion and analysis of our financial condition at June 30, 2023 and our results of operations for the three fiscal years ended June 30, 2023 are based upon our consolidated financial statements, which have been prepared in conformity with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles (“U.S. GAAP”). The preparation of these financial statements requires us to make estimates and assumptions that affect the amounts of assets, liabilities, revenues and expenses reported in those financial statements. These estimates and assumptions can be subjective and complex and, consequently, actual results could differ from those estimates. We consider accounting estimates to be critical if both (i) the nature of the estimate or assumption is material due to the levels of subjectivity and judgment involved, and (ii) the impact within a reasonable range of outcomes of the estimate and assumption is material to the Company’s financial condition. Our critical accounting policies relate to Goodwill and Other Indefinite-lived Intangible Assets - Impairment Assessment, Income Taxes, and Asset Acquisition.
Management of the Company has discussed the selection of critical accounting policies and the effect of estimates with the Audit Committee of the Company’s Board of Directors.
Goodwill and Other Indefinite-lived Intangible Assets – Impairment Assessment
Goodwill is calculated as the excess of the cost of purchased businesses over the fair value of their underlying net assets. Other indefinite-lived intangible assets principally consist of trademarks. Goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets are not amortized.
When testing goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets for impairment, we have the option of first performing a qualitative assessment to determine whether it is more-likely-than-not that the fair value of a reporting unit is less than its carrying amount as a basis for determining whether it is necessary to perform a quantitative impairment test. If necessary, we can perform a single step quantitative goodwill impairment test by comparing the fair value of a reporting unit with its carrying amount and record an impairment charge for the amount that the carrying amount exceeds the fair value, up to the total amount of goodwill allocated to that reporting unit.
For fiscal 2023, we elected to perform the qualitative assessment for the goodwill in certain of our reporting units and other indefinite-lived intangible assets. This qualitative assessment included the review of certain macroeconomic factors and entity-specific qualitative factors to determine if it was more-likely-than-not that the fair values of its reporting units were below carrying value. We considered macroeconomic factors including the global economic growth, general macroeconomic trends for the markets in which the reporting units operate and the intangible assets are employed, and the growth of the global prestige beauty industry. In addition to these macroeconomic factors, among other things, we considered the reporting units’ current results and forecasts, any changes in the nature of the business, any significant legal, regulatory, contractual, political or other business climate factors, changes in the industry/competitive environment, changes in the composition or carrying amount of net assets and its intention to sell or dispose of a reporting unit or cease the use of a trademark.
For fiscal 2023, a quantitative assessment was performed for the goodwill in certain of our reporting units and other indefinite-lived intangible assets. We engaged third-party valuation specialists and used industry accepted valuation models and criteria that were reviewed and approved by various levels of management. To determine the estimated fair value of the reporting units, we used an equal weighting of the income and market approaches. Under the income approach, we determined fair value using a discounted cash flow method, projecting future cash flows of each reporting unit, as well as a terminal value, and discounting such cash flows at a rate of return that reflected the relative risk of the cash flows. Under the market approach, we utilized market multiples from publicly traded companies with similar operating and investment characteristics as the reporting unit. The significant assumptions used in these two approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal value, the weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and comparable market multiples. To determine the estimated fair value of other indefinite-lived intangible assets, we used an income approach, specifically the relief-from-royalty method. This method assumes that, in lieu of ownership, a third party would be willing to pay a royalty in order to obtain the rights to use the comparable asset. The significant assumptions used in this approach include revenue growth rates, terminal value, the weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rate.
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For fiscal 2022, we elected to perform the quantitative assessment for the goodwill in each of its reporting units and indefinite-lived intangible assets. We engaged a third-party valuation specialist and used industry accepted valuation models and criteria that were reviewed and approved by various levels of management. To determine the estimated fair value of the reporting units, we used an equal weighting of the income and market approaches. Under the income approach, we determined fair value using a discounted cash flow method, projecting future cash flows of each reporting unit, as well as a terminal value, and discounting such cash flows at a rate of return that reflected the relative risk of the cash flows. Under the market approach, we utilized market multiples from publicly traded companies with similar operating and investment characteristics as the reporting unit. The significant assumptions used in these two approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal value, the weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and comparable market multiples. To determine the estimated fair value of other indefinite-lived intangible assets, we used an income approach, specifically the relief-from-royalty method. This method assumes that, in lieu of ownership, a third party would be willing to pay a royalty in order to obtain the rights to use the comparable asset. The significant assumptions used in this approach include revenue growth rates, terminal value, the weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rate.
For further discussion of the methods used and factors considered in our estimates as part of the impairment testing for Goodwill and Other Indefinite-lived Intangible Assets, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
Income Taxes
We calculate and provide for income taxes in each tax jurisdiction in which we operate. As the application of various tax laws relevant to our global business is often uncertain, significant judgment is required in determining our annual tax expense and in evaluating our tax positions. The provision for income taxes includes the amounts payable or refundable for the current year, the effect of deferred taxes and impacts from uncertain tax positions.
We recognize deferred tax assets and liabilities for future tax consequences attributable to differences between financial statement carrying amounts of existing assets and liabilities and their respective tax basis, net operating losses, tax credit and other carryforwards. Deferred tax assets and liabilities are measured using enacted tax rates when the assets and liabilities are expected to be realized or settled. We regularly review deferred tax assets for realizability and establish valuation allowances based on available evidence including historical operating losses, projected future taxable income, expected timing of the reversals of existing temporary differences, and appropriate tax planning strategies. If our assessment of the realizability of a deferred tax asset changes, an increase to a valuation allowance will result in a reduction of net earnings at that time, while the reduction of a valuation allowance will result in an increase of net earnings at that time.
We provide tax reserves for U.S. federal, state, local and foreign tax exposures relating to periods subject to audit. The development of reserves for these exposures requires judgments about tax issues, potential outcomes and timing, and is a subjective critical estimate. We assess our tax positions and record tax benefits for all years subject to examination based upon management’s evaluation of the facts, circumstances, and information available at the reporting dates. For those tax positions where it is more-likely-than-not that a tax benefit will be sustained, we have recorded the largest amount of tax benefit with a greater than 50% likelihood of being realized upon settlement with a tax authority that has full knowledge of all relevant information. For those tax positions where it is more-likely-than-not that a tax benefit will not be sustained, no tax benefit has been recognized in the consolidated financial statements. We classify applicable interest and penalties as a component of the provision for income taxes. Although the outcome relating to these exposures is uncertain, in our opinion adequate provisions for income taxes have been made for estimable potential liabilities emanating from these exposures. If actual outcomes differ materially from these estimates, they could have a material impact on our consolidated net earnings.
For further discussion of Income Taxes, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 9 – Income Taxes.
Asset Acquisition
We recognize assets acquired in an asset acquisition based on the cost to the Company on a relative fair value basis, which includes transaction costs in addition to consideration transferred and liabilities assumed or issued as part of the transaction. Neither goodwill nor bargain purchase gains are recognized in an asset acquisition; any excess of consideration transferred over the fair value of the net assets acquired, or the opposite, is allocated to qualifying assets based on their relative fair values. The determination of fair value, as well as the expected useful lives of certain assets acquired, requires management to make judgments and may involve the use of significant estimates, including assumptions with respect to estimated future cash flows and discount rates, among other things. Management estimates of fair value are based upon assumptions believed to be reasonable, but which are inherently uncertain and unpredictable.
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During fiscal 2023, we acquired 100% of the equity interests in 001 Del LLC (“001”) in exchange for $2,550 million in consideration (the “TOM FORD Acquisition”). The TOM FORD Acquisition has been accounted for as an asset acquisition as the fair value of the gross assets acquired is concentrated in the value of the TOM FORD trademark intangible asset. The acquisition of 001 included existing license relationships for certain uses of the brand name, which were modified, terminated or otherwise renegotiated in connection with the transaction.
The total cost of the asset acquisition is $2,578 million and was allocated to the TOM FORD trademark. We engaged a third-party valuation specialist and used an income approach, specifically the relief-from-royalty method, to determine the fair value of the TOM FORD trademark. This method assumes that, in lieu of ownership, a third party would be willing to pay a royalty in order to obtain the rights to use the comparable asset. The significant assumptions used to estimate the fair value were revenue growth rates, terminal value, beauty royalty savings, the weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates.
For further discussion of Business Combinations and Asset Acquisitions, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Note 5 – Business and Asset Acquisitions and Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
CAUTIONARY NOTE REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING INFORMATION
We and our representatives from time to time make written or oral forward-looking statements, including in this and other filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, in our press releases and in our reports to stockholders, which may constitute “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. Such statements may address our expectations regarding sales, earnings or other future financial performance and liquidity, other performance measures, product introductions, entry into new geographic regions, information technology initiatives, new methods of sale, our long-term strategy, restructuring and other charges and resulting cost savings, and future operations or operating results. These statements may contain words like “expect,” “will,” “will likely result,” “would,” “believe,” “estimate,” “planned,” “plans,” “intends,” “may,” “should,” “could,” “anticipate,” “estimate,” “project,” “projected,” “forecast,” and “forecasted” or similar expressions. Although we believe that our expectations are based on reasonable assumptions within the bounds of our knowledge of our business and operations, actual results may differ materially from our expectations. Factors that could cause actual results to differ from expectations include, without limitation:
(1)increased competitive activity from companies in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care businesses;
(2)our ability to develop, produce and market new products on which future operating results may depend and to successfully address challenges in our business;
(3)consolidations, restructurings, bankruptcies and reorganizations in the retail industry causing a decrease in the number of stores that sell our products, an increase in the ownership concentration within the retail industry, ownership of retailers by our competitors or ownership of competitors by our customers that are retailers and our inability to collect receivables;
(4)destocking and tighter working capital management by retailers;
(5)the success, or changes in timing or scope, of new product launches and the success, or changes in timing or scope, of advertising, sampling and merchandising programs;
(6)shifts in the preferences of consumers as to where and how they shop;
(7)social, political and economic risks to our foreign or domestic manufacturing, distribution and retail operations, including changes in foreign investment and trade policies and regulations of the host countries and of the United States;
(8)changes in the laws, regulations and policies (including the interpretations and enforcement thereof) that affect, or will affect, our business, including those relating to our products or distribution networks, changes in accounting standards, tax laws and regulations, environmental or climate change laws, regulations or accords, trade rules and customs regulations, and the outcome and expense of legal or regulatory proceedings, and any action we may take as a result;
(9)foreign currency fluctuations affecting our results of operations and the value of our foreign assets, the relative prices at which we and our foreign competitors sell products in the same markets and our operating and manufacturing costs outside of the United States;
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(10)changes in global or local conditions, including those due to volatility in the global credit and equity markets, natural or man-made disasters, real or perceived epidemics, supply chain challenges, inflation, or increased energy costs, that could affect consumer purchasing, the willingness or ability of consumers to travel and/or purchase our products while traveling, the financial strength of our customers, suppliers or other contract counterparties, our operations, the cost and availability of capital which we may need for new equipment, facilities or acquisitions, the returns that we are able to generate on our pension assets and the resulting impact on funding obligations, the cost and availability of raw materials and the assumptions underlying our critical accounting estimates;
(11)impacts attributable to the COVID-19 pandemic, including disruptions to our global business;
(12)shipment delays, commodity pricing, depletion of inventory and increased production costs resulting from disruptions of operations at any of the facilities that manufacture our products or at our distribution or inventory centers, including disruptions that may be caused by the implementation of information technology initiatives, or by restructurings;
(13)real estate rates and availability, which may affect our ability to increase or maintain the number of retail locations at which we sell our products and the costs associated with our other facilities;
(14)changes in product mix to products which are less profitable;
(15)our ability to acquire, develop or implement new information technology, including operational technology and websites, on a timely basis and within our cost estimates; to maintain continuous operations of our new and existing information technology; and to secure the data and other information that may be stored in such technologies or other systems or media;
(16)our ability to capitalize on opportunities for improved efficiency, such as publicly-announced strategies and restructuring and cost-savings initiatives, and to integrate acquired businesses and realize value therefrom;
(17)consequences attributable to local or international conflicts around the world, as well as from any terrorist action, retaliation and the threat of further action or retaliation;
(18)the timing and impact of acquisitions, investments and divestitures; and
(19)additional factors as described in our filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, including this Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2023.
We assume no responsibility to update forward-looking statements made herein or otherwise.
FY 2022 10-K MD&A
SEC filing source: 0001001250-22-000122.
Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
We manufacture, market and sell beauty products including those in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care categories, which are distributed in approximately 150 countries and territories. The following table is a comparative summary of operating results for fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020 and reflects the basis of presentation described in Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 22 – Segment Data and Related Information for all periods presented. Products and services that do not meet our definition of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care have been included in the “other” category.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2022 | 2021 | 2020 | ||||||||
| NET SALES | |||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 9,886 | $ | 9,484 | $ | 7,382 | |||||
| Makeup | 4,667 | 4,203 | 4,794 | ||||||||
| Fragrance | 2,508 | 1,926 | 1,563 | ||||||||
| Hair Care | 631 | 571 | 515 | ||||||||
| Other | 49 | 45 | 40 | ||||||||
| 17,741 | 16,229 | 14,294 | |||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (4) | (14) | — | ||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 17,737 | $ | 16,215 | $ | 14,294 | |||||
| By Region(1): | |||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 4,623 | $ | 3,797 | $ | 3,794 | |||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 7,681 | 6,946 | 6,262 | ||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 5,437 | 5,486 | 4,238 | ||||||||
| 17,741 | 16,229 | 14,294 | |||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (4) | (14) | — | ||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 17,737 | $ | 16,215 | $ | 14,294 | |||||
| OPERATING INCOME (LOSS) | |||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 2,753 | $ | 3,036 | $ | 2,125 | |||||
| Makeup | 133 | (384) | (1,438) | ||||||||
| Fragrance | 456 | 215 | 17 | ||||||||
| Hair Care | (28) | (19) | (19) | ||||||||
| Other | — | (2) | 4 | ||||||||
| 3,314 | 2,846 | 689 | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (144) | (228) | (83) | ||||||||
| Operating income | $ | 3,170 | $ | 2,618 | $ | 606 | |||||
| By Region(1): | |||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 1,159 | $ | 518 | $ | (1,044) | |||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 1,360 | 1,335 | 997 | ||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 795 | 993 | 736 | ||||||||
| 3,314 | 2,846 | 689 | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (144) | (228) | (83) | ||||||||
| Operating income | $ | 3,170 | $ | 2,618 | $ | 606 |
(1)The net sales from the Company’s travel retail business are included in the Europe, the Middle East & Africa region, with the exception of net sales of Dr.Jart+ in the travel retail channel that are reflected in Korea in the Asia/Pacific region. Operating income attributable to the travel retail sales included in Europe, the Middle East & Africa is included in that region and in The Americas.
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The following table presents certain consolidated earnings data as a percentage of net sales:
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2022 | 2021 | 2020 | |||||||
| Net sales | 100.0 | % | 100.0 | % | 100.0 | % | |||
| Cost of sales | 24.3 | 23.6 | 24.8 | ||||||
| Gross profit | 75.7 | 76.4 | 75.2 | ||||||
| Operating expenses: | |||||||||
| Selling, general and administrative | 55.7 | 57.8 | 60.4 | ||||||
| Restructuring and other charges | 0.8 | 1.3 | 0.5 | ||||||
| Goodwill impairment | — | 0.3 | 5.7 | ||||||
| Impairment of other intangible and long-lived assets | 1.4 | 0.8 | 4.3 | ||||||
| Total operating expenses | 57.9 | 60.2 | 70.9 | ||||||
| Operating income | 17.9 | 16.1 | 4.2 | ||||||
| Interest expense | 0.9 | 1.1 | 1.1 | ||||||
| Interest income and investment income, net | 0.2 | 0.3 | 0.3 | ||||||
| Other components of net periodic benefit cost | — | (0.1) | — | ||||||
| Other income, net | — | 5.2 | 3.9 | ||||||
| Earnings before income taxes | 17.1 | 20.5 | 7.3 | ||||||
| Provision for income taxes | (3.5) | (2.8) | (2.4) | ||||||
| Net earnings | 13.6 | 17.7 | 4.9 | ||||||
| Net earnings attributable to noncontrolling interests | — | (0.1) | (0.1) | ||||||
| Net loss (earnings) attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest | (0.1) | — | — | ||||||
| Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | 13.5 | % | 17.7 | % | 4.8 | % | |||
| Not adjusted for differences caused by rounding |
Period-over-period changes in our net sales are generally attributable to the impacts from (i) pricing on our base portfolio, including changes in strategic pricing actions and mix, (ii) volume, including changes driven by the impact of new product innovation, (iii) acquisitions and/or divestitures, and/or (iv) foreign currency translation.
The net sales impact from pricing consists of changes in list prices, due to strategic pricing initiatives, and mix shifts within and among product categories, geographic regions and distribution channels. The prices at which we sell our products vary by brand, distribution channel (e.g., wholesale or direct-to-consumer) and may also vary by country. Our brands and products cover a broad array of pricing tiers. Prices of skin care and fragrance products are typically higher than makeup and hair care products.
New product innovation includes the introduction of new products, as well as the innovation of existing products, including reformulations, regional expansion, repackaging and sets. A product is considered "new innovation" for the twelve-month period following the initial shipment date. Our innovation is launched at different price points than existing products and value derived from innovation may vary from year to year. We continually introduce new products, support new and established products through advertising, merchandising and sampling and phase out existing products that no longer meet the needs of our consumers or our objectives. The economics of developing, producing, launching, supporting and discontinuing products impact our sales and operating performance each period. The introduction of new products often has some cannibalizing effect on sales of existing products, which we take into account in our business planning. The impact of new product introductions, including timing compared to introductions in prior periods, also affects our results.
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Non-GAAP Financial Measures
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period helps investors and others compare operating performance between periods. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. See Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
We operate on a global basis, with the majority of our net sales generated outside the United States. Accordingly, fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates can affect our results of operations. Therefore, we present certain net sales, operating results and diluted net earnings per common share information excluding the effect of foreign currency rate fluctuations to provide a framework for assessing the performance of our underlying business outside the United States. Constant currency information compares results between periods as if exchange rates had remained constant period-over-period. Beginning in fiscal 2022, we calculate constant currency information by translating current-period results using monthly average foreign currency exchange rates and adjusting for the period-over-period impact of foreign currency cash flow hedging activities. Prior to fiscal 2022, constant currency information was calculated using the prior-year period weighted-average exchange rates. This change is not material to prior-period constant currency information presented herein.
Overview
COVID-19 Business Update
The COVID-19 pandemic continued to disrupt our operating environment globally, primarily impacting supply chain, inventory levels and other logistics during the year ended June 30, 2022. The resurgence of COVID-19 cases in many Chinese provinces led to restrictions late in the fiscal 2022 third quarter that remained in place through the end of fiscal 2022 to prevent further spread of the virus. Consequently, retail traffic, travel, and distribution capabilities were temporarily curtailed. Our distribution facilities in Shanghai operated with limited capacity to fulfill brick-and-mortar and online orders beginning in mid-March 2022 and returned to normal capacity by early June 2022.
Government Assistance
Beginning in the second half of fiscal 2020, many governments in locations where we operate announced programs to assist employers whose businesses were impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, including programs that provide rebates to incentivize employers to maintain employees on payroll who were unable to work for their usual number of hours. During fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020, we qualified for and recorded $12 million, $84 million and $99 million, respectively, in government assistance, which reduced Selling, general and administrative expenses by $9 million, $78 million and $87 million, respectively, and Cost of sales by $3 million, $6 million and $10 million, respectively. The remaining $2 million recorded in fiscal 2020 was deferred and recognized in fiscal 2021 as a reduction to Cost of sales.
We will continue to monitor the impacts of COVID-19 and adjust our action plans accordingly as the situation progresses.
Business Update
We are a leader in prestige beauty, which combines the repeat purchase and relative affordability of consumer goods with high quality products and services. Within prestige beauty, we are well diversified by product category, geography, brand, product sub-category, channel, consumer segment and price point. This diversification allows us to leverage consumer analytics and insights with agility by deploying our brands to fast growing and profitable opportunities. These analytics and insights, combined with our creativity, inform our innovation to provide a broad, locally-relevant and inclusive range of prestige products allowing us to compete effectively for a greater share of a consumer's beauty routine.
•In fiscal 2022, our global prestige fragrance net sales increased 30%, leading category growth. Consumers gravitated to luxury and artisanal offerings from Jo Malone London, Tom Ford Beauty, Le Labo and Kilian Paris. Colognes led growth at Jo Malone London, while bath & body and home subcategories continued to thrive. Tom Ford Beauty saw strong fragrance growth across regions owing to the popularity of Oud Wood and the launch of Ombre Leather Parfum. Outstanding growth from Le Labo and Kilian Paris reflected compelling activations and expanded consumer reach.
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•We began to see demand for makeup products increase as COVID restrictions lifted and consumers returned to social and professional settings. In fiscal 2022, net sales in makeup grew double-digits driven by strong activations, expanded consumer reach and the launch of MACStack mascara, increases in Estée Lauder DoubleWear and Futurist foundation products, as well as a strong performance in foundation and lip from Clinique.
•Our skin care net sales growth reflected incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter, as well as continued strength in La Mer hero products and the launches of the Hydrating Infused Emulsion and the upgrade to The Treatment Lotion. The category has been pressured by COVID restrictions, primarily in Asian markets, at various points throughout fiscal 2022.
•Our hair care net sales also grew double digits, reflecting brick-and-mortar channel recovery and new product launches from both Aveda and Bumble and bumble.
Our global distribution capability and operations allow us to focus on targeted expanded consumer reach wherever consumer demographics and trends are the most attractive. Our regional organizations, and the expertise of our people there, enable our brands to be more locally and culturally relevant in both product assortment and communications. We are evolving the way we connect with our consumers in stores, online and where they travel, including by expanding our digital and social media presence and the engagement of global and local influencers to amplify brand or product stories. We tailor implementation of our strategy by market to drive consumer engagement and embrace cultural diversity. We continuously strengthen our presence in large, image-building core markets, while broadening our presence in emerging markets.
•The increase in net sales during fiscal 2022 was led by The Americas, primarily reflecting the recovery of brick-and-mortar stores, targeted expanded consumer reach and incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter.
•Net sales rose in Europe, the Middle East & Africa, led by recovery in western markets and emerging markets as brick-and-mortar retail reopened across the region. Europe, the Middle East & Africa also benefited from ongoing increases in our travel retail business, partly relating to the increase in traffic as a result of the easing of travel restrictions in The Americas and Europe, the Middle East & Africa.
•Net sales decreased slightly in Asia/Pacific, reflecting the resurgence of COVID-19 cases in many Chinese provinces which led to restrictions to further prevent the spread of the virus during the second half of fiscal 2022. Online continued to thrive, primarily due to the current-year launch on a new third-party online platform, while brick-and-mortar retail remains challenged.
As a result of the invasion of Ukraine, we suspended our business investments and initiatives and commercial activity in Russia and Ukraine in early March 2022. This included the temporary closure of our owned and authorized freestanding stores and our own brand sites.
As the safety of our employees remains a top priority, we continue to take significant steps to support our employees in Ukraine, including the continuance of compensation, maintenance of regular communication and offering relocation assistance, and continue to provide compensation and support to our employees in Russia. We are monitoring the effects of this conflict, including risks that may affect our business, and expect that we will adjust our plans accordingly as the situation progresses.
For the year ended June 30, 2022, the results of operations related to Russia and Ukraine were not material to our consolidated financial statements.
We approach distribution strategically by product category and location and seek to optimize distribution by matching our brands with appropriate opportunities while seeking to maintain high productivity per door. We are expanding our brands in online and travel retail, which we believe will be higher growth channels in the long term. We also focus on brand-building retail activities, technology-driven activations and omnichannel capabilities that enhance the shopping experience for consumers.
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•As part of this strategy, we have built a leadership position in the global travel retail channel, that historically allowed us to leverage the robust and growing international passenger traffic. While COVID-19 has significantly curtailed international travel in the near-term, we are seeing some recovery in The Americas and Europe, the Middle East & Africa and we continue to believe that global travel retail is a long-term growth opportunity. Travel retail continues to be an important channel for brand building due to the increase in traveling consumers, particularly those from emerging markets, who often experience our brands for the first time while traveling. We continue to expand our strategic presence in travel retail across duty-free locations primarily in airports and downtown stores and increasingly through online retail. We engage consumers at the airport through compelling pop-up activations in non-traditional commercial areas, and we ensure we have appropriate communication and curated assortments for targeted consumer groups. At the same time, travel retail is susceptible to a number of external factors, including fluctuations in currency exchange rates and consumers’ willingness and ability to travel and spend.
•Online net sales have continued to grow on a global basis, rising double digits for fiscal 2022. We continue to enhance and launch e- and m-commerce sites of our own in new and existing markets, collaborate with our retail customers on their e-commerce sites, and sell through select third-party online malls. We believe our success in delivering strong online growth is a result of adapting our strategy to meet local market and cultural needs. We also continue to develop and implement omnichannel concepts, virtual try-on tools and compelling content to deliver an integrated consumer experience and better serve consumers as they shop across channels.
Our multiple engines of growth, which have historically enabled us to produce excellent net sales growth, are also helping to mitigate the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. We also benefited from the transformation of certain operations that freed up resources to invest behind further growth opportunities. Our Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program (described below) enabled us to reduce costs and invest in new capabilities such as digital marketing and data analytics as well as increased advertising.
In fiscal 2022, we continued to further integrate social impact and sustainability into our strategy and business operations. Areas of differentiation include climate & energy, green chemistry, social investments, employee engagement and safety and inclusion, diversity & equity. Other areas of focus include responsible sourcing, plastics & packaging, ingredient transparency, and animal welfare.
Outlook
The COVID-19 pandemic continues to disrupt business for us, retailers and other companies with which we do business. There have been, and are likely to continue to be, intermittent store closures and supply chain disruptions. We are mindful that these trends may continue to impact the pace of recovery. The continued curtailment in international travel is also affecting our travel retail business, particularly in Asia, which had been historically one of our fastest growth areas. In addition to impacting net sales and profitability, these and other challenges may adversely impact the goodwill and other intangible assets associated with our brands, as well as long-lived assets (i.e. potentially resulting in impairments).
We believe that the best way to increase long-term stockholder value is to continue providing superior products and services in the most efficient and effective manner while recognizing shifts in consumers’ behaviors and shopping practices. Accordingly, our long-term strategy has numerous initiatives across geographic regions, product categories, brands, channels of distribution and functions designed to grow our sales, provide cost efficiencies, leverage our strengths and make us more productive and profitable. We plan to build upon and leverage our history of outstanding creativity and innovation, high quality products and services, and engaging communications while investing for long-term sustainable growth.
We continue to monitor the effects of the global macro environment, including the risk of recession; currency volatility; increasing inflationary pressures; supply chain disruptions; social and political issues; regulatory matters, including the imposition of tariffs and sanctions; geopolitical tensions; and global security issues. For example, we continue to monitor the geopolitical tensions between the United States and China, which could have a material adverse effect on our business. We are also mindful of inflationary pressures on our cost base and are monitoring the impact on consumer preferences.
In fiscal 2022, net sales from Donna Karan New York, DKNY, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger and Ermenegildo Zegna accounted for approximately 1% of consolidated net sales and 10% of fragrance net sales. As noted above, we previously announced that we would not be renewing our license agreements for these product lines when their respective terms expire in June 2023. We have since negotiated early termination agreements with each of the licensors effective June 30, 2022 and continued to sell products under these licenses until such time. We are working with the licensors and their respective new licensee, where applicable, to transition the business to the new licensees.
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The invasion of Ukraine has negatively impacted our operations in both Russia and Ukraine. In fiscal 2022, our operations in Ukraine and Russia accounted for approximately 1% of consolidated net sales. In March 2022, we announced a suspension of our business investments and initiatives and commercial activity in Russia. In July 2022, we liquidated the majority of our remaining in-market inventory. Future impacts on our business, including sanctions and counter-sanctions, are difficult to predict due to the high level of uncertainty as to how these developments will evolve. On a broader perspective, there could be additional negative impacts to our net sales, earnings, assets and cash flows should these matters continue or escalate; such impacts could include economic challenges in other countries because of inflationary pressures or other consequences. Please refer to Risk Factors in Part I, Item 1A of the Company's Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2022, for a more complete discussion of the risks we encounter in our business and industry.
The uncertainty around the timing, speed and duration of the recovery from the adverse impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic, including the impacts on our business of the ongoing restrictions in China, will continue to affect our ability to grow sales profitably. We believe we can, to some extent, offset the impact of more ordinary challenges by continually developing and pursuing a diversified strategy with multiple engines of growth and by accelerating initiatives focused on areas of strength, discipline and agility, and by executing upon our Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program. As the current situation continues to progress, if economic and social conditions or the degree of uncertainty or volatility worsen, or the adverse conditions previously described are further prolonged, there could be a further negative effect on consumer confidence, demand, spending and willingness or ability to travel and, as a result, on our business. We are continuing to monitor these and other risks that may affect our business.
Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program
On August 20, 2020, we announced a two-year restructuring program, Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program (the “PCBA Program”), designed to realign our business to address the dramatic shifts to our distribution landscape and consumer behaviors in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. The PCBA Program is designed to help improve efficiency and effectiveness by rebalancing resources to growth areas of prestige beauty. It is expected to further strengthen us by building upon the foundational capabilities in which we have invested.
The PCBA Program’s main areas of focus include accelerating the shift to online with the realignment of our distribution network reflecting freestanding store and certain department store closures, with a focus on North America and Europe, the Middle East & Africa; the reduction in brick-and-mortar point of sale employees and related support staff; and the redesign of our regional branded marketing organizations, plus select opportunities in global brands and functions. This program is expected to position us to better execute our long-term strategy while strengthening our financial flexibility.
We previously estimated a net reduction over the duration of the PCBA Program in the range of approximately 2,000 to 2,500 positions globally, including temporary and part-time employees. We have revised these estimates based on the review of the PCBA Program. As of June 30, 2022, we estimate a net reduction over the duration of the PCBA Program in the range of 2,500 to 3,000 positions globally, including temporary and part-time employees. This reduction takes into account the elimination of some positions, retraining and redeployment of certain employees and investment in new positions in key areas. We also estimate the closure over the duration of the PCBA Program of approximately 10% to 15% of our freestanding stores globally, primarily in Europe, the Middle East & Africa and in North America.
We approved specific initiatives under the PCBA Program through fiscal 2022 and expect to substantially complete those initiatives through fiscal 2023. We previously estimated that the PCBA Program would result in related restructuring and other charges totaling between $400 million and $500 million, before taxes. After concluding the final approvals and reviewing the progress of previously approved initiatives under the PCBA Program that are being implemented, we have revised our estimates for cost approvals under the PCBA Program. Inclusive of approvals from inception through June 28, 2022, we now estimate that the PCBA Program may result in related restructuring and other charges totaling between $500 million and $515 million, before taxes.
We previously expected, once fully implemented, the PCBA Program to yield annual benefits, primarily in Selling, general and administrative expenses, of between $300 million and $400 million, before taxes. As of June 30, 2022, we now expect, once fully implemented, the PCBA Program to yield annual benefits, primarily in Selling, general and administrative expenses, of between $390 million and $410 million, before taxes. We expect to reinvest a portion of the savings behind future growth initiatives.
For additional information about restructuring and other charges, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 8 – Charges Associated with Restructuring and Other Activities.
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Impairment Testing
We assess goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets at least annually for impairment or more frequently if certain events or circumstances exist.
During the fiscal 2022 third quarter, given the lower-than-expected results from international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19, we made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to our GLAMGLOW reporting unit. We concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting unit triggered the need for an interim impairment review of its trademark intangible asset. The remaining carrying value of the trademark intangible asset was not recoverable and we recorded an impairment charge of $11 million reducing the carrying value to zero.
During the fiscal 2022 third quarter, given the lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels for Dr.Jart+ that continue to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants and resurgence in cases and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the brand, the lower than expected growth in key retail channels for DECIEM, and the lower than expected results from international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19 for Too Faced, we made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to the Dr.Jart+, DECIEM and Too Faced reporting units.
We concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting units triggered the need for interim impairment reviews of their trademarks and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of Dr.Jart+’s, DECIEM’s and Too Faced’s long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, we performed interim impairment tests for the trademarks and a recoverability test for the long-lived assets as of February 28, 2022. We concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets were recoverable. For the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit, we also concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible asset exceeded its estimated fair value, which was determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded an impairment charge of $205 million. For the Too Faced and DECIEM reporting units, as the carrying values of the trademarks did not exceed their estimated fair values, which were determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, we did not record impairment charges. The estimated fair values of Too Faced’s and DECIEM's trademarks exceeded their carrying values by 13% and 3%, respectively. For the Too Faced and DECIEM trademark intangible assets, if all other assumptions are held constant, an increase of 100 basis points and 50 basis points, respectively, in the weighted average cost of capital would result in an impairment charge. After adjusting the carrying values of the trademarks, we completed interim quantitative impairment tests for goodwill. As the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+, DECIEM and Too Faced reporting units were in excess of their carrying values, we concluded that the carrying amounts of the goodwill were recoverable and did not record a goodwill impairment charge related to these reporting units. The fair values of these reporting units were based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates for trademarks. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair value of the Dr.Jart+ trademark intangible asset was the weighted-average cost of capital, which was 10.5%.
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Based on our annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2022, we determined that the carrying value of the Dr.Jart+ trademark exceeded its fair value. This determination was made based on updated internal forecasts. Given the lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels that continued to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants, the resurgence in cases, regional lockdowns and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the brand, we made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit. These changes in circumstances were also indicators that the carrying amounts of their respective long-lived assets may not be recoverable. We concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible asset exceeded its estimated fair value, which was determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded an impairment charge of $25 million. We concluded that the carrying amount of the long-lived assets were recoverable. After adjusting the carrying value of the trademark, we completed a quantitative impairment test for goodwill. As the estimated fair value of the reporting unit was in excess of its carrying value, we concluded that the carrying amount of the goodwill was recoverable and did not record a goodwill impairment charge related to the reporting unit. The fair value of the reporting unit was based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates for trademarks. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair value of the trademark intangible asset was the weighted-average cost of capital, which was 10.5%.
A summary of the trademark impairment charges for the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2022 and the remaining carrying values as of June 30, 2022, for each reporting unit, are as follows:
| (In millions) | Impairment Charge | Carrying Value | |||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Reporting Unit: | Geographic Region | Three Months Ended June 30, 2022 | Twelve Months Ended June 30, 2022 | As of June 30, 2022 | |||||||||||||||
| GLAMGLOW | The Americas | $ | — | $ | 11 | $ | — | ||||||||||||
| Dr.Jart+ | Asia/Pacific | 25 | 230 | 428 | |||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 25 | $ | 241 | $ | 428 |
The impairment charges for the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2022 were reflected in the skin care product category.
The fair values of all reporting units, which were determined based on quantitative assessments, with goodwill were substantially in excess of their respective carrying values, with the exception of the DECIEM reporting unit. The carrying value of the DECIEM reporting unit as of June 30, 2022 approximated its fair value.
The fair value of the Dr.Jart+ trademark was equal to its carrying value subsequent to the impairment charge taken as of April 1, 2022. Additionally, the fair values of the Smashbox, DECIEM and Too Faced trademark intangible assets approximated their carrying values as of April 1, 2022. The key assumptions used to determine the estimated fair value of the reporting unit are primarily predicated on the estimated future impacts of COVID-19, the success of future new product launches, the achievement of distribution expansion plans, and the realization of cost reduction and other efficiency efforts. If such plans do not materialize, or if there are further challenges in the business environments in which the reporting unit operates, resulting changes in the key assumptions could have negative impacts on the estimated fair value of the reporting unit and it is possible we could recognize additional impairment charges in the future.
For additional information, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
Fiscal 2021 as Compared with Fiscal 2020
Except as disclosed herein, see Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Results of Operations of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2021 for the fiscal 2021 to fiscal 2020 comparative discussion.
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Fiscal 2022 as Compared with Fiscal 2021
NET SALES
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 17,737 | $ | 16,215 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 1,522 | 1,921 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 9 | % | 13 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 10 | % | 11 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales increased in fiscal 2022, driven by higher net sales from every product category and in The Americas and Europe, the Middle East & Africa primarily reflecting (i) the continued progression towards brick-and-mortar and travel recovery compared to the prior-year challenges, which included widespread store closures, lower retail traffic, travel restrictions and quarantines, stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic; (ii) the continued success of hero product franchises; (iii) successful performance for holiday and key shopping moments (iv) new product launches; and (v) targeted expanded consumer reach.
Reported net sales increased from every product category in fiscal 2022. Fragrance net sales grew double digits, led by Jo Malone London, Tom Ford Beauty and Le Labo. The continued progression towards recovery in makeup compared to the prior-year period contributed to the double-digit increase in makeup net sales, led by M·A·C and Estée Lauder. Skin care net sales benefited from incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter and higher results from La Mer, Bobbi Brown and Clinique, partially offset by lower results from Estée Lauder and Origins. Hair care net sales increased, due to higher net sales from Aveda and Bumble and bumble.
Fiscal 2022 reported net sales grew double digits in The Americas and Europe, the Middle East & Africa benefiting from incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter. Net sales increased in Europe, the Middle East & Africa, reflecting recovery across the region, led by our travel retail business and the United Kingdom. The increases in net sales in The Americas reflected higher net sales throughout the region. Partially offsetting the increase in reported net sales in fiscal 2022 were lower net sales in Asia/Pacific, primarily due to a resurgence of COVID-19 cases across many Chinese provinces which led to restrictions to further prevent the spread of the virus during the second half of fiscal 2022.
The fiscal 2022 reported net sales increase was impacted by approximately $88 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales increased 9% in fiscal 2022, driven by the increase from pricing of 7%, due to favorable impacts from changes in mix and strategic pricing actions; incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter of 2%; and the increase from volume of 1%. Partially offsetting these increases was the unfavorable impact of foreign currency translation of 1%.
Reported net sales increased 13% in fiscal 2021, driven by the increase from volume of 7%, due to new product innovation. The increases from foreign currency translation, pricing and acquisitions individually accounted for approximately 2% of the increase in fiscal 2021 net sales.
Returns associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they result from activities that are deemed a Company-wide initiative to redesign, resize and reorganize select corporate functions and go-to-market structures. Accordingly, the following discussions of Net sales by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2022 and fiscal 2021 impacts of returns associated with restructuring and other activities of approximately $4 million and $14 million, respectively.
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Product Categories
Skin Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 9,886 | $ | 9,484 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 402 | 2,102 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 4 | % | 28 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 4 | % | 25 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported skin care net sales increased in fiscal 2022, primarily reflecting incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter and higher net sales from La Mer, Bobbi Brown and Clinique, combined, of approximately $837 million. Net sales from La Mer increased, led by our travel retail business and mainland China, primarily reflecting continued success of hero products, including Crème de la Mer and the upgrade to The Treatment Lotion, the current-year launch of The Hydrating Infused Emulsion, and targeted expanded consumer reach, including the current-year launch of a new third-party online platform in mainland China. Bobbi Brown net sales increased, led by our travel retail business and mainland China, primarily driven by continued success of hero products, such as Soothing Cleansing Oil and Vitamin Enriched Face Base, successful performance during holiday and key shopping moments and targeted expanded consumer reach. Clinique net sales increased, primarily driven by our travel retail business and North America, reflecting the continued success of existing products, such as the Take The Day Off line of products and Even Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter, and the current-year launch of Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum.
Partially offsetting the fiscal 2022 increase in skin care net sales were lower net sales from Estée Lauder and Origins of approximately $528 million, combined. The decrease in net sales from Estée Lauder and Origins reflected the challenges due to the resurgence of COVID-19 cases in Asia during the second half of fiscal 2022, which led to restrictions to prevent further spread of the virus. Also contributing to the decrease in net sales for Estée Lauder was lower net sales from the Advanced Night Repair product franchise primarily due to the prior-period launch of Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex.
Reported skin care net sales increased 4% in fiscal 2022, driven by incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter of 4%. Pricing contributed 9% to growth, due to favorable impacts from changes in mix and strategic pricing actions and was offset by the decrease from changes in volume of 9%, primarily due to new product innovation that reflected a difficult comparison to the prior year due to the launch of Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex and the challenges due to the resurgence of COVID-19 cases in Asia during the second half of fiscal 2022.
Reported skin care net sales increased 28% in fiscal 2021, driven by the increase from volume of 23%, due to new product innovation; incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of Dr.Jart+ in the second quarter of fiscal 2020 and the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter of 4%, combined; the favorable impact from foreign currency translation of 3%. Partially offsetting these increases was a decrease from pricing of 2%, due to unfavorable impacts from changes in mix.
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Makeup
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 4,667 | $ | 4,203 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 464 | (591) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 11 | % | (12) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 12 | % | (14) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported makeup net sales increased in fiscal 2022, led by higher net sales from M·A·C and Estée Lauder, of approximately $337 million, combined. The continued progression towards recovery in makeup, including increased usage occasions compared to the prior-year period, led to the increase in makeup net sales in The Americas and Europe, the Middle East & Africa. The increase in net sales from M·A·C was primarily driven by the continued success of hero products, such as Studio Fix, current-year new product launches, such as MACStack mascara, and successful social media campaigns during key shopping moments. Net sales from Estée Lauder increased, led by our travel retail business, primarily due to the continued success of existing products, such as the Double Wear and Futurist product franchises and new product launches, such as the current-year launches of Double Wear Sheer Long-Wear Makeup.
The makeup net sales increase was impacted by approximately $50 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported makeup net sales increased 11% in fiscal 2022, driven by the increase from volume of 12%, given the continued progression towards recovery and increased makeup usage occasions compared to the prior-year period, partially offset by the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 1%.
Reported makeup net sales decreased 12% in fiscal 2021, driven by the decrease from volume of 19%, due to the continued challenges from the COVID-19 pandemic, including fewer makeup usage occasions. Partially offsetting this decrease was an increase from pricing of 5%, due to favorable impacts from changes in mix and strategic pricing actions, and the favorable impact from foreign currency translation of 2%.
Fragrance
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 2,508 | $ | 1,926 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 582 | 363 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 30 | % | 23 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 32 | % | 21 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported fragrance net sales increased in fiscal 2022, primarily driven by Jo Malone London, Tom Ford Beauty and Le Labo of approximately $440 million, combined. Fragrance net sales grew in every geographic region, reflecting continued growth in luxury fragrances, the brick-and-mortar and travel recovery in various parts of the world due to more store openings, and successful performance during holiday and key shopping moments. The increases in net sales from Jo Malone London also reflected the continued success of our hero products, current-year launches and continued growth of the cologne, home and bath & body subcategories. Net sales increased from Tom Ford Beauty, also reflecting the continued success of Private Blend and Signature fragrances, current-year product launches and the diversification of product offerings by region. Net sales from Le Labo increased, also reflecting the continued success of hero product franchises, current-year product launches and targeted expanded consumer reach.
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The fragrance net sales increase was impacted by approximately $33 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported fragrance net sales increased 30% in fiscal 2022, driven by the increase from volume of 29%, primarily due to the continued growth in luxury fragrances, as well as the brick-and-mortar and travel recovery, and the increase from pricing of 3%, due to the favorable impacts from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix. Partially offsetting these increases was the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 2%.
Reported fragrance net sales increased 23% in fiscal 2021, driven by the increase in pricing of 15%, due to favorable impacts from changes in mix and strategic pricing actions; the increase in volume of 5%, reflecting a recovery compared to the prior-year challenges and growth in luxury fragrances; and the favorable impact from foreign currency translation of 3%.
Hair Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 631 | $ | 571 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 60 | 56 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 11 | % | 11 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 12 | % | 9 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported hair care net sales increased in fiscal 2022, reflecting higher net sales from Aveda and Bumble and bumble of approximately $47 million, combined, primarily due to the continued progression towards salon and retail store recovery in North America. Net sales from Aveda increased, reflecting the continued success of existing product franchises, the current-year relaunch of Full Spectrum Semi-Permanent Treatment Hair Color and Smooth Infusion, as well as new product launches. The increase in net sales from Bumble and bumble also reflected the success of hero products, current-year product launches of Bb. Thickening Plumping Mask and Bb. Thickening Go Big Plumping Treatment, and targeted expanded consumer reach.
The hair care net sales increase was impacted by approximately $8 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported hair care net sales increased 11% in fiscal 2022, driven by the increase from pricing of 15%, due to favorable impacts from changes in mix and strategic pricing actions. Partially offsetting this increase was a decrease from volume of 3%, due to new product innovation, including the launches of lower-priced products as compared to the prior-year period, and the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 1%.
Reported hair care net sales increased 11% in fiscal 2021, driven by the increase from volume of 7%, due to new product innovation, including the launches of higher-priced products as compared to the prior-year period; the increase from pricing of 2%, primarily due to a favorable impact from strategic pricing actions; and the favorable impact from foreign currency translation of 2%.
Geographic Regions
We strategically time our new product launches by geographic market, which may account for differences in regional sales growth.
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The Americas
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 4,623 | $ | 3,797 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 826 | 3 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 22 | % | — | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 21 | % | 1 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales in The Americas increased in every country and product category in fiscal 2022, reflecting the brick-and-mortar and makeup recovery from the prior-year challenges that included store closures, lower retail traffic, fewer makeup usage occasions and quarantines, stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic. The net sales increases were led by higher net sales in North America of approximately $761 million, reflecting incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter, higher net sales from many of our brands, led by M·A·C and Clinique, and targeted expanded consumer reach.
The net sales increase in The Americas included approximately $22 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in The Americas increased 22% in fiscal 2022, driven by the increase from volume of 16%, reflecting the brick-and-mortar and makeup recovery from the prior-year challenges; incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter of 5%; and the favorable impact from foreign currency translation of 1%.
Europe, the Middle East & Africa
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 7,681 | $ | 6,946 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 735 | 684 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 11 | % | 11 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 12 | % | 9 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa increased in fiscal 2022, reflecting continued recovery across the region, primarily due to store openings, increased retail traffic, and the easing of travel restrictions compared to the prior year, led by our travel retail business and the United Kingdom of approximately $541 million, combined. Despite the resurgence in COVID-19 cases in many Chinese provinces, which led to restrictions to prevent further spread of the virus and the curtailment of travel during the second half of fiscal 2022, net sales increased in our travel retail business, reflecting continued strength of our brands with the Chinese consumer, the easing of travel restrictions in Europe, the Middle East & Africa and The Americas, and continued success of hero product franchises from La Mer, Jo Malone London, Tom Ford Beauty, Clinique and M·A·C. These benefits were partially offset by lower net sales from Estée Lauder products, primarily reflecting lower net sales from the Advanced Night Repair product franchise primarily due to the prior-period launch of Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex. Net sales in the United Kingdom increased, primarily reflecting incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter, brick-and-mortar recovery, as noted above, and benefiting from the growth in makeup and fragrance.
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The net sales increase in Europe, the Middle East & Africa included approximately $117 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa increased 11% in fiscal 2022, driven by the increase from pricing of 9%, due to favorable impacts from changes in mix and strategic pricing actions, and incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter of 2%.
Reported net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa increased 11% in fiscal 2021, driven by the increase from volume of 6%, primarily due to new product innovation, including the launches of higher-priced products compare to the prior-year period; the increase from pricing of 3%, due to strategic price increases and the favorable impact from changes in mix; the favorable impact from foreign currency translation of 2%.
Asia/Pacific
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 5,437 | $ | 5,486 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (49) | 1,248 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (1) | % | 29 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (1) | % | 22 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales decreased in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2022, primarily driven by lower results in Korea, led by Dr.Jart+, Hong Kong and Thailand of approximately $134 million, combined, due to the resurgence of COVID-19 cases during the second half of fiscal 2022 that led to border closures to prevent further spread of the virus.
Partially offsetting the fiscal 2022 decrease in Asia/Pacific were increased net sales from mainland China and Australia of approximately $82 million, combined. Net sales increased in mainland China, primarily due to the continued success of hero products franchises from La Mer and Jo Malone London, reflecting continued growth in skin care and strong momentum in fragrance, successful performance during holiday and key shopping moments, new product launches, and the current-year launch on a new third-party online platform. This increase was achieved despite the resurgence in COVID-19 cases in many Chinese provinces during the second half of fiscal 2022, which led to restrictions to prevent further spread of the virus and the curtailment of travel. Net sales in Australia increased, primarily driven by incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter.
The net sales decrease in Asia/Pacific included approximately $7 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in Asia/Pacific decreased 1% in fiscal 2022, driven by the decrease from volume of 9%, reflecting the challenges stemming from the resurgence of COVID-19 cases during the second half of fiscal 2022. Partially offsetting this decrease was an increase from pricing of 7%, due to favorable impact from changes in mix and strategic pricing actions, and the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter of 1%.
Reported net sales in Asia/Pacific increased 29% in fiscal 2021, due to the increase from volume of 15%, driven by new product innovation, including the launches of higher-priced products compared to the prior-year period; the favorable impact of foreign currency translation of 7%; incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of Dr.Jart+ in the second quarter of fiscal 2020 and the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter of 6%, combined; and the increase from pricing of 1%.
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GROSS MARGIN
Gross margin in fiscal 2022 decreased to 75.7% as compared with 76.4% in fiscal 2021.
| Fiscal 2022 vs. Fiscal 2021Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points | |
|---|---|
| Mix of business | (35) |
| Obsolescence charges | (15) |
| Foreign exchange transactions | 50 |
| Manufacturing costs and other | (60) |
| Subtotal | (60) |
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (10) |
| Total | (70) |
The decrease in gross margin for fiscal 2022 reflected unfavorable impacts from manufacturing costs and our mix of business, partially offset by a favorable impact from transactional foreign exchange due to the strengthening of the U.S. Dollar. The unfavorable impact from manufacturing costs was primarily due to supply chain disruptions, including manufacturing and transportation delays, port congestion, labor and container shortages, and shipment delays. The unfavorable impact from our mix of business was primarily due to the change in category mix, driven by the increase in makeup and fragrance net sales, higher costs from new products and product sets, and lower gross margins on DECIEM products, partially offset by strategic price increases.
OPERATING EXPENSES
Operating expenses as a percentage of net sales in fiscal 2022 decreased to 57.9% as compared with 60.2% in fiscal 2021.
| Fiscal 2022 vs. Fiscal 2021Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points | |
|---|---|
| General and administrative expenses | 100 |
| Advertising, merchandising, sampling and product development | 80 |
| Selling | 60 |
| Shipping | (70) |
| Store operating costs | (20) |
| Stock-based compensation | 20 |
| Foreign exchange transactions | (20) |
| Subtotal | 150 |
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | 50 |
| Goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | (30) |
| Changes in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | 60 |
| Total | 230 |
The favorable change in operating expense margin in fiscal 2022 was driven by the increase in net sales, disciplined general and administrative expense management, disciplined advertising and promotional activities primarily to support new product launches and holiday and key shopping moments, and the favorable impact from selling expenses, primarily due to the shift in channel mix to specialty-multi and pure-play sites, partially offset by higher shipping costs due to the increase in net sales volume and increased shipping rates.
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OPERATING RESULTS
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 3,170 | $ | 2,618 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 552 | 2,012 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 21 | % | 100+% | ||||
| Operating Margin | 17.9 | % | 16.1 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments, the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options and changes in fair value of contingent consideration | 14 | % | 46 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
The reported operating margin for fiscal 2022 increased from the prior-year period, primarily driven by the increase in net sales and the decrease in operating expenses as a percentage of net sales, partially offset by the decrease in gross margin, as noted above.
Charges associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they are centrally directed and controlled, are not included in internal measures of product category or geographic region performance and result from activities that are deemed Company-wide initiatives to redesign, resize and reorganize select areas of the business. Accordingly, the following discussions of Operating income by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2022 and 2021 impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities of $144 million, or approximately 1% of net sales and $228 million, or approximately 1% of net sales, respectively.
Product Categories
Skin Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 2,753 | $ | 3,036 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (283) | 911 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (9) | % | 43 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments and the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | (8) | % | 44 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported skin care operating income decreased in fiscal 2022, reflecting lower results from Estée Lauder and Origins of approximately $571 million, combined, as well as the unfavorable year-over-year impact of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments of $135 million. The decrease in operating income from Estée Lauder and Origins was primarily due to a decrease in net sales.
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Partially offsetting the decreases in operating income in fiscal 2022 were higher results from La Mer and Bobbi Brown of approximately $217 million, combined, as well as the favorable year-over-year impact of changes in fair value of acquisition-related stock options relating to the increase in our investment in DECIEM during the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter of $93 million. The higher results from La Mer reflected an increase in net sales, partially offset by the increase in cost of sales that was mostly due to higher costs for promotional items and higher advertising and promotional activities primarily to support holiday and key shopping moments and new product launches. Operating income from Bobbi Brown increased, primarily driven by an increase in net sales.
See Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 18 – Stock Programs for additional information relating to DECIEM stock options.
Makeup
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 133 | $ | (384) | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 517 | 1,054 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 100+% | 73 | % | ||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments and the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | 100+% | (100+)% |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported makeup operating income increased in fiscal 2022, reflecting higher results from M·A·C and Estée Lauder of approximately $248 million, combined, and the favorable year-over-year impact of other intangible and long-lived asset impairments of $63 million. Operating income from M·A·C increased due to the increase in net sales, partially offset by higher advertising and promotional activities to support new product launches and higher selling costs due to the brick-and-mortar recovery, including more stores being open and increased retail traffic compared to the prior year. Operating income from Estée Lauder increased primarily due to the increase in net sales, partially offset by higher advertising and promotional activities relating to strategic investments to support the makeup recovery and digital advertising and social media spending.
Fragrance
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 456 | $ | 215 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 241 | 198 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 100+% | 100+% | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for long-lived asset impairments and changes in fair value of contingent consideration | 100+% | 100+% |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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Reported fragrance operating income increased in fiscal 2022, primarily driven by higher results from Jo Malone London, Tom Ford Beauty and Le Labo of approximately $182 million, combined. The higher results from Jo Malone London primarily reflected the increase in net sales, partially offset by higher cost of sales given the growth of the home subcategory and the increase in advertising and promotional activities and the increase in selling costs resulting from the brick-and-mortar recovery and new product launches. Operating results from Tom Ford Beauty increased, primarily due to higher net sales, partially offset by higher cost of sales due, in part, to the increase in promotional items and the increase in advertising and promotional activities to support strategic investments in digital advertising and social media spending (including costs associated with influencers), hero product franchises, and new product launches. The increases in operating income from Le Labo was primarily driven by the increase in net sales.
Hair Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating loss | $ | (28) | $ | (19) | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (9) | — | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (47) | % | — | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of long-lived asset impairments | (87) | % | (100+)% |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported hair care operating results decreased in fiscal 2022, primarily driven by lower results from Aveda due to increased operating expenses to support the salon and retail store recovery, partially offset by higher results from Bumble and bumble, primarily due to the increase in net sales, as discussed above.
Geographic Regions
The Americas
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 1,159 | $ | 518 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 641 | 1,562 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 100+% | 100+% | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments and the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | 60 | % | 100+% |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported operating results increased in The Americas in fiscal 2022, primarily reflecting higher operating results from North America of approximately $612 million, primarily due to the increase in net sales, higher intercompany royalty income primarily from growth in our travel retail business, favorable year-over-year impact of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments of $129 million and the favorable year-over-year impact of changes in fair value of acquisition-related stock options relating to the increase in our investment in DECIEM during the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter of $95 million.
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Partially offsetting these increases in operating income were higher advertising and promotional activities, primarily to support strategic investments in digital advertising and social media spending and in-store promotions given the increase in brick-and-mortar traffic, and increases in selling expense due to the brick-and-mortar and makeup recovery compared to the prior-year.
Europe, the Middle East & Africa
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 1,360 | $ | 1,335 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 25 | 338 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 2 | % | 34 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of long-lived asset impairments and changes in fair value of contingent consideration | (2) | % | 27 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported operating income increased in Europe, the Middle East & Africa in fiscal 2022, primarily driven by higher results from several affiliates across the region, led by the United Kingdom, reflecting the brick-and-mortar recovery, compared to the prior-year periods and favorable year-over-year impact of long-lived asset impairments of $48 million. Partially offsetting the increase in reported operating income was lower results from our travel retail business. The decrease in operating income from our travel retail business was primarily driven by an increase in intercompany royalty expense to The Americas primarily due to the growth of our travel retail business. Also contributing to the decrease in operating income from our travel retail business was higher advertising and promotional activity primarily to support strategic investments in key areas of growth (primarily hero products and the skin care product category), as well as to capture the current-year increase in airport traffic. These higher expenses were partially offset by the increase in net sales.
Asia/Pacific
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 795 | $ | 993 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (198) | 257 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (20) | % | 35 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for other intangible asset impairments | 3 | % | 33 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 49 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported operating income decreased in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2022, reflecting the current year other intangible asset impairment relating to Dr.Jart+ of $230 million.
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INTEREST AND INVESTMENT INCOME
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| Interest expense | $ | 167 | $ | 173 | |||
| Interest income and investment income, net | $ | 30 | $ | 51 |
Interest income and investment income, net decreased primarily due to equity method investment income recognized in the prior-year period relating to our previously held equity method investment in DECIEM.
OTHER INCOME, NET
On May 18, 2021, we acquired additional shares in DECIEM, a Toronto-based skin care company, for $1,092 million in cash, including proceeds from the issuance of debt. DECIEM is a multi-brand beauty company with a brand portfolio that includes The Ordinary and NIOD. This acquisition is expected to further strengthen our leadership position in prestige skin care, expand our global consumer reach and complement our business in the online and specialty-multi channels. We originally acquired a minority interest in DECIEM in June 2017. The minority interest was accounted for as an equity method investment, which had a carrying value of $65 million at the acquisition date. The acquisition of additional shares increased our fully diluted equity interest from approximately 29% to approximately 76% and was considered a step acquisition. On a fully diluted basis, the DECIEM stock options approximated 4% of the total capital structure. Accordingly, for purposes of determining the consideration transferred, we excluded the DECIEM stock options, which resulted in an increase in our post-acquisition undiluted equity interest from approximately 30% to approximately 78% and the post-acquisition undiluted equity interest of the remaining noncontrolling interest holders of approximately 22%. We remeasured the previously held equity method investment to its fair value of $913 million, resulting in the recognition of a gain of $848 million. The gain on our previously held equity method investment is included in Other income, net in the accompanying consolidated statements of earnings for the year ended June 30, 2021. As part of the increase in our investment, we were granted the right to purchase ("Call Option"), and granted the remaining investors a right to sell to us ("Put Option"), the remaining interests after a three-year period, with a purchase price based on the future performance of DECIEM (the "net Put (Call) Option"). As a result of this redemption feature, we recorded redeemable noncontrolling interest, at its acquisition‑date fair value, that is classified as mezzanine equity in the accompanying consolidated balance sheets at June 30, 2021. The accounting for the DECIEM business combination was finalized during the fiscal 2022 third quarter.
See Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 5 – Acquisition of Businesses for additional information.
On December 18, 2019, we acquired the remaining equity interest in Have&Be Co. Ltd. (“Have & Be”), the global skin care company behind Dr.Jart+ and men’s grooming brand Do The Right Thing, for $1,268 million in cash. Based on the final purchase price and working capital adjustments, we estimated a refund receivable of $32 million that was outstanding as of June 30, 2020 and was received in the first quarter of fiscal 2021. We originally acquired a minority interest in Have & Be in December 2015, which included a formula-based call option for the remaining equity interest. The original minority interest was accounted for as an equity method investment, which had a carrying value of $133 million at the acquisition date. The acquisition of the remaining equity interest in Have & Be was considered a step acquisition, whereby we remeasured the previously held equity method investment to its fair value of $660 million, resulting in the recognition of a gain of $530 million. The acquisition of the remaining equity interest also resulted in the recognition of a previously unrealized foreign currency gain of $4 million, which was reclassified from accumulated other comprehensive income. The total gain on our previously held equity method investment of $534 million is included in Other income, net in the accompanying consolidated statements of earnings for the year ended June 30, 2020.
The amount paid at closing was funded by cash on hand including the proceeds from the issuance of debt. In anticipation of the closing, we transferred cash to a foreign subsidiary for purposes of making the closing payment. As a result, we recognized a foreign currency gain of $23 million, which is also included in Other income, net in the accompanying consolidated statements of earnings for the year ended June 30, 2020.
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PROVISION FOR INCOME TAXES
The provision for income taxes represents U.S. federal, foreign, state and local income taxes. The effective rate differs from the federal statutory rate primarily due to the effect of state and local income taxes, the tax impact of share-based compensation, the taxation of foreign income and income tax reserve adjustments, which represent changes in our net liability for unrecognized tax benefits including tax settlements and lapses of the applicable statutes of limitations. Our effective tax rate will change from year-to-year based on recurring and non-recurring factors including the geographical mix of earnings, enacted tax legislation, state and local income taxes, tax reserve adjustments, the tax impact of share-based compensation, the interaction of various global tax strategies and the impact from certain acquisitions.
The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act (the “TCJA”) included broad and complex changes to the U.S. tax code that impacted our accounting and reporting for income taxes. See Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 9 – Income Taxes for further discussion relating to the TCJA.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| Earnings before income taxes: | $ | 3,036 | $ | 3,331 | |||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes | 20.7 | % | 13.7 | % | |||
| Basis-point change from prior year | 700 | (1,980) | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes | 21.3 | % | 18.7 | % |
(1)Excludes the net impact on the effective tax rates of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments, other income, net, changes in the fair value of contingent consideration and changes in the fair value of acquisition-related stock options. There was no tax expense associated with the fiscal 2021 other income, net adjustment (previously held equity method investment in DECIEM).
The effective tax rate for fiscal 2022 increased approximately 700 basis points. The increase was primarily attributable to the prior year impact of the fiscal 2021 gain on our previously held equity method investment in DECIEM with no associated tax expense of approximately 530 basis points, as well as the prior-year impact of retroactively electing the global intangible low-taxed income (“GILTI”) high-tax exception under the TCJA of approximately 140 basis points.
NET EARNINGS ATTRIBUTABLE TO THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions, except per share data) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | $ | 2,390 | $ | 2,870 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (480) | 2,186 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (17) | % | 100+% | ||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share | $ | 6.55 | $ | 7.79 | |||
| % Change from prior year | (16) | % | 100+% | ||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in diluted net earnings per common share from prior year adjusting for the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments, other income, net, changes in fair value of contingent consideration and changes in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | 12 | % | 57 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” below for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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RECONCILIATIONS OF NON-GAAP FINANCIAL MEASURES
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period, or do not reflect the Company’s underlying ongoing business, provides transparency for such items and helps investors and others compare and analyze our operating performance from period to period. In the future, we expect to incur charges or adjustments similar in nature to those presented below; however, the impact to the Company’s results in a given period may be highly variable and difficult to predict. Our non-GAAP financial measures may not be comparable to similarly titled measures used by, or determined in a manner consistent with, other companies. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. The following tables present Net sales, Operating income and Diluted net earnings per common share adjusted to exclude the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities; goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments; other income, net; the changes in fair value of contingent consideration; the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options; and the effects of foreign currency translation. The following tables provide reconciliations between these non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
| Year Ended June 30 | % Change | % Change in Constant Currency | ||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions, except per share data) | 2022 | 2021 | Variance | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales, as reported | $ | 17,737 | $ | 16,215 | $ | 1,522 | 9 | % | 10 | % | ||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | 4 | 14 | (10) | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales, as adjusted | $ | 17,741 | $ | 16,229 | $ | 1,512 | 9 | % | 10 | % | ||||||||
| Operating income, as reported | $ | 3,170 | $ | 2,618 | $ | 552 | 21 | % | 19% | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | 144 | 228 | (84) | |||||||||||||||
| Goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | 241 | 188 | 53 | |||||||||||||||
| Changes in fair value of contingent consideration | — | (2) | 2 | |||||||||||||||
| Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options | (55) | 40 | (95) | |||||||||||||||
| Operating income, as adjusted | $ | 3,500 | $ | 3,072 | $ | 428 | 14 | % | 13 | % | ||||||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share, as reported | $ | 6.55 | $ | 7.79 | $ | (1.24) | (16) | % | (17) | % | ||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | .31 | .48 | (.17) | |||||||||||||||
| Other income, net | — | (2.30) | 2.30 | |||||||||||||||
| Goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | .50 | .40 | .10 | |||||||||||||||
| Changes in fair value of contingent consideration | — | (.01) | .01 | |||||||||||||||
| Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options (less portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest) | (.12) | .09 | (.21) | |||||||||||||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share, as adjusted | $ | 7.24 | $ | 6.45 | $ | .79 | 12 | % | 12 | % |
As diluted net earnings per common share, as adjusted, is used as a measure of the Company’s performance, we consider the impact of current and deferred income taxes when calculating the per-share impact of each of the reconciling items.
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The following table reconciles the change in net sales by product category and geographic region, as reported, to the change in net sales excluding the effects of foreign currency translation:
| As Reported | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year Ended June 30 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | Variance | Impact of foreign currency translation | Variance, in constant currency | % Change, as reported | % Change, in constant currency | |||||||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 9,886 | $ | 9,484 | $ | 402 | $ | (3) | $ | 399 | 4 | % | 4 | % | ||||||||||||
| Makeup | 4,667 | 4,203 | 464 | 50 | 514 | 11 | 12 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 2,508 | 1,926 | 582 | 33 | 615 | 30 | 32 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | 631 | 571 | 60 | 8 | 68 | 11 | 12 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Other | 49 | 45 | 4 | — | 4 | 9 | 9 | |||||||||||||||||||
| 17,741 | 16,229 | 1,512 | 88 | 1,600 | 9 | 10 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (4) | (14) | 10 | — | 10 | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 17,737 | $ | 16,215 | $ | 1,522 | $ | 88 | $ | 1,610 | 9 | % | 10 | % | ||||||||||||
| By Region: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 4,623 | $ | 3,797 | $ | 826 | $ | (22) | $ | 804 | 22 | % | 21 | % | ||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 7,681 | 6,946 | 735 | 117 | 852 | 11 | 12 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 5,437 | 5,486 | (49) | (7) | (56) | (1) | (1) | |||||||||||||||||||
| 17,741 | 16,229 | 1,512 | 88 | 1,600 | 9 | 10 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (4) | (14) | 10 | — | 10 | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 17,737 | $ | 16,215 | $ | 1,522 | $ | 88 | $ | 1,610 | 9 | % | 10 | % |
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The following table reconciles the change in operating income by product category and geographic region, as reported, to the change in operating income excluding the impact of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments, changes in fair value of contingent consideration and change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options:
| As Reported | Add: Changes in Goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | Add: Changes in fair value of contingent consideration | Add: Change in fair value of Acquisition-related stock options | Variance, as adjusted | % Change, as reported | % Change, as adjusted | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year Ended June 30 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | 2022 | 2021 | Variance | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 2,753 | $ | 3,036 | $ | (283) | $ | 134 | $ | — | $ | (93) | $ | (242) | (9)% | (8)% | ||||||||||||||||
| Makeup | 133 | (384) | 517 | (63) | — | (2) | 452 | 100+ | 100+ | |||||||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 456 | 215 | 241 | (14) | 2 | — | 229 | 100+ | 100+ | |||||||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | (28) | (19) | (9) | (4) | — | — | (13) | (47) | (87) | |||||||||||||||||||||||
| Other | — | (2) | 2 | — | — | 2 | 100 | 100 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 3,314 | 2,846 | $ | 468 | $ | 53 | $ | 2 | $ | (95) | $ | 428 | 16% | 14% | |||||||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (144) | (228) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 3,170 | $ | 2,618 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| By Region: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 1,159 | $ | 518 | $ | 641 | $ | (129) | $ | — | $ | (95) | $ | 417 | 100+% | 60% | ||||||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 1,360 | 1,335 | 25 | (48) | 2 | — | (21) | 2 | (2) | |||||||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 795 | 993 | (198) | 230 | — | — | 32 | (20) | 3 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
| 3,314 | 2,846 | $ | 468 | $ | 53 | $ | 2 | $ | (95) | $ | 428 | 16% | 14% | |||||||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (144) | (228) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 3,170 | $ | 2,618 |
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FINANCIAL CONDITION
LIQUIDITY AND CAPITAL RESOURCES
Overview
Our principal sources of funds historically have been cash flows from operations, borrowings pursuant to our commercial paper program, borrowings from the issuance of long-term debt and committed and uncommitted credit lines provided by banks and other lenders in the United States and abroad. At June 30, 2022, we had cash and cash equivalents of $3,957 million compared with $4,958 million at June 30, 2021. Our cash and cash equivalents are maintained at a number of financial institutions. To mitigate the risk of uninsured balances, we select financial institutions based on their credit ratings and financial strength, and we perform ongoing evaluations of these institutions to limit our concentration risk exposure.
Based on past performance and current expectations, we believe that cash on hand, cash generated from operations, available credit lines and access to credit markets will be adequate to support seasonal working capital needs, currently planned business operations, information technology enhancements, capital expenditures, acquisitions, dividends, stock repurchases, restructuring initiatives, commitments and other contractual obligations on both a near-term and long-term basis.
The TCJA resulted in the Transition Tax on unrepatriated earnings of our foreign subsidiaries and changed the tax law in ways that present opportunities to repatriate cash without additional U.S. federal income tax. As a result, we changed our indefinite reinvestment assertion related to certain foreign earnings, and we continue to analyze the indefinite reinvestment assertion on our remaining applicable foreign earnings. We do not believe that continuing to reinvest our foreign earnings impairs our ability to meet our domestic debt or working capital obligations. If these reinvested earnings were repatriated into the United States as dividends, we would be subject to state income taxes and applicable foreign taxes in certain jurisdictions.
The effects of inflation have not been significant to our overall operating results in recent years, however we are mindful of increasing inflationary pressures. Generally, we have been able to introduce new products at higher prices, increase prices and implement other operating efficiencies to sufficiently offset cost increases.
Credit Ratings
Changes in our credit ratings will likely result in changes in our borrowing costs. Our credit ratings also impact the cost of our revolving credit facility. Downgrades in our credit ratings may reduce our ability to issue commercial paper and/or long-term debt and would likely increase the relative costs of borrowing. A credit rating is not a recommendation to buy, sell, or hold securities, is subject to revision or withdrawal at any time by the assigning rating organization, and should be evaluated independently of any other rating. As of August 17, 2022, our long-term debt is rated A+ with a stable outlook by Standard & Poor’s and A1 with a stable outlook by Moody’s.
Debt and Access to Liquidity
Total debt as a percent of total capitalization (excluding noncontrolling interests) increased to 49% at June 30, 2022 from 48% at June 30, 2021.
For further information regarding our current and long-term debt and available financing, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 11 – Debt.
Cash Flows
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2022 | 2021 | |||||
| Net cash provided by operating activities | $ | 3,040 | $ | 3,631 | |||
| Net cash used for investing activities | $ | (945) | $ | (1,864) | |||
| Net cash used for financing activities | $ | (3,036) | $ | (1,892) |
The change in net cash flows provided by operations reflected higher working capital needs to support growth and to mitigate the global supply chain challenges, as well as higher cash paid for taxes, partially offset by higher earnings before taxes, excluding non-cash items.
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The change in net cash flows used for investing activities primarily reflected cash paid, net of cash acquired, in connection with the acquisition of additional shares in DECIEM in fiscal 2021 and the settlement of net investment hedges. These changes were partially offset by an increase in capital expenditures, primarily driven by increased investments for a new manufacturing facility in Japan, online capabilities, our freestanding stores and counters at retailers to support new and existing distribution and information technology enhancements, as well as investments to support the reopening of our offices located around the world, which were previously closed due to COVID-19.
The change in net cash flows used for financing activities primarily reflected an increase relating to higher treasury stock repurchases in fiscal 2022 and proceeds from the issuance of long-term debt, net in the prior-year period, partially offset by the repayment of short-term debt and repayments and redemptions of long-term debt made in the prior-year period.
See Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Financial Condition of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2021 for the fiscal 2021 to fiscal 2020 comparative discussions.
Dividends
For a summary of quarterly cash dividends declared per share on our Class A and Class B Common Stock during the year ended June 30, 2022 and through August 17, 2022, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 17 – Common Stock.
Pension and Post-retirement Plan Funding
Several factors influence the annual funding requirements for our pension plans. For our domestic trust-based noncontributory qualified defined benefit pension plan (“U.S. Qualified Plan”), we seek to maintain appropriate funded percentages. For any future contributions to the U.S. Qualified Plan, we would seek to contribute an amount or amounts that would not be less than the minimum required by the Employee Retirement Income Security Act of 1974, as amended, (“ERISA”) and subsequent pension legislation, and would not be more than the maximum amount deductible for income tax purposes. For each international plan, our funding policies are determined by local laws and regulations. In addition, amounts necessary to fund future obligations under these plans could vary depending on estimated assumptions. The effect of our pension plan funding on future operating results will depend on economic conditions, employee demographics, mortality rates, the number of participants electing to take lump-sum distributions, investment performance and funding decisions.
For the U.S. Qualified Plan, we maintain an investment strategy of matching the duration of a substantial portion of the plan assets with the duration of the underlying plan liabilities. This strategy assists us in maintaining our overall funded ratio. For fiscal 2022 and 2021, we met or exceeded all contribution requirements under ERISA regulations for the U.S. Qualified Plan. As we continue to monitor the funded status, we may decide to make cash contributions to the U.S. Qualified Plan or our post-retirement medical plan in the United States during fiscal 2023.
The following table summarizes actual and expected benefit payments and contributions for our other pension and post-retirement plans:
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | Expected 2023 | 2022 | 2021 | ||||||||
| Non-qualified domestic noncontributory pension plan benefit payments | $ | 21 | $ | 18 | $ | 19 | |||||
| International defined benefit pension plan contributions | $ | 35 | $ | 38 | $ | 40 | |||||
| Post-retirement plan benefit payments | $ | 10 | $ | 11 | $ | 7 |
Commitments and Contingencies
For a discussion of our contingencies, see to Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 16 – Commitments and Contingencies (Contractual Obligations).
Contractual Obligations
For a discussion of our contractual obligations, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 16 – Commitments and Contingencies (Contractual Obligations).
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Derivative Financial Instruments and Hedging Activities
For a discussion of our derivative financial instruments and hedging activities, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Derivative Financial Instruments.
Foreign Exchange Risk Management
For a discussion of foreign exchange risk management, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Derivative Financial Instruments (Cash Flow Hedges, Net Investment Hedges).
Credit Risk
For a discussion of credit risk, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Derivative Financial Instruments (Credit Risk).
Market Risk
We address certain financial exposures through a controlled program of market risk management that includes the use of foreign currency forward contracts to reduce the effects of fluctuating foreign currency exchange rates and to mitigate the change in fair value of specific assets and liabilities on the balance sheet. To perform a sensitivity analysis of our foreign currency forward contracts, we assess the change in fair values from the impact of hypothetical changes in foreign currency exchange rates. A hypothetical 10% weakening of the U.S. dollar against the foreign exchange rates for the currencies in our portfolio would have resulted in a net decrease in the fair value of our portfolio of approximately $259 million and $218 million as of June 30, 2022 and 2021, respectively. This potential change does not consider our underlying foreign currency exposures.
In addition, we enter into interest rate derivatives to manage the effects of interest rate movements on our aggregate liability portfolio, including future debt issuances. Based on a hypothetical 100 basis point increase in interest rates, the estimated fair value of our interest rate derivatives would decrease by approximately $41 million and $83 million as of June 30, 2022 and 2021, respectively.
Our sensitivity analysis represents an estimate of reasonably possible net losses that would be recognized on our portfolio of derivative financial instruments assuming hypothetical movements in future market rates and is not necessarily indicative of actual results, which may or may not occur. It does not represent the maximum possible loss or any expected loss that may occur, since actual future gains and losses will differ from those estimated, based upon actual fluctuations in market rates, operating exposures, and the timing thereof, and changes in our portfolio of derivative financial instruments during the year. We believe, however, that any such loss incurred would be offset by the effects of market rate movements on the respective underlying transactions for which the derivative financial instrument was intended.
OFF-BALANCE SHEET ARRANGEMENTS
We do not maintain any off-balance sheet arrangements, transactions, obligations or other relationships with unconsolidated entities that would be expected to have a material current or future effect upon our financial condition or results of operations.
RECENTLY ISSUED ACCOUNTING STANDARDS
Refer to Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies for discussion regarding the impact of accounting standards that were recently issued but not yet effective, on our consolidated financial statements.
CRITICAL ACCOUNTING POLICIES AND ESTIMATES
The discussion and analysis of our financial condition at June 30, 2022 and our results of operations for the three fiscal years ended June 30, 2022 are based upon our consolidated financial statements, which have been prepared in conformity with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles (“U.S. GAAP”). The preparation of these financial statements requires us to make estimates and assumptions that affect the amounts of assets, liabilities, revenues and expenses reported in those financial statements. These estimates and assumptions can be subjective and complex and, consequently, actual results could differ from those estimates. We consider accounting estimates to be critical if both (i) the nature of the estimate or assumption is material due to the levels of subjectivity and judgment involved, and (ii) the impact within a reasonable range of outcomes of the estimate and assumption is material to the Company’s financial condition. Our critical accounting policies relate to goodwill, other intangible assets and long-lived assets - impairment assessment and income taxes.
Management of the Company has discussed the selection of critical accounting policies and the effect of estimates with the Audit Committee of the Company’s Board of Directors.
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Goodwill, Other Intangible Assets and Long-Lived Assets – Impairment Assessment
Goodwill is calculated as the excess of the cost of purchased businesses over the fair value of their underlying net assets. Other indefinite-lived intangible assets principally consist of trademarks. Goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets are not amortized.
When testing goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets for impairment, we have the option of first performing a qualitative assessment to determine whether it is more-likely-than-not that the fair value of a reporting unit is less than its carrying amount as a basis for determining whether it is necessary to perform a quantitative impairment test. If necessary, we can perform a single step quantitative goodwill impairment test by comparing the fair value of a reporting unit with its carrying amount and record an impairment charge for the amount that the carrying amount exceeds the fair value, up to the total amount of goodwill allocated to that reporting unit. For fiscal 2022, we elected to perform the quantitative assessment for the goodwill in each of our reporting units and indefinite-lived intangible assets. We engaged a third-party valuation specialist and used industry accepted valuation models and criteria that were reviewed and approved by various levels of management. For fiscal 2021, we elected to perform the qualitative assessment for the goodwill in certain of our reporting units and indefinite-lived intangible assets. This qualitative assessment included the review of certain macroeconomic factors and entity-specific qualitative factors to determine if it was more-likely-than-not that the fair values of our reporting units were below carrying value. For our other reporting units and other indefinite-lived intangible assets, a quantitative assessment was performed. We engaged third-party valuation specialists and used industry accepted valuation models and criteria that were reviewed and approved by various levels of management.
For further discussion of the methods used and factors considered in our estimates as part of the impairment testing for Goodwill, Other Intangible Assets and Long-Lived Assets, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
Income Taxes
We calculate and provide for income taxes in each tax jurisdiction in which we operate. As the application of various tax laws relevant to our global business is often uncertain, significant judgment is required in determining our annual tax expense and in evaluating our tax positions. The provision for income taxes includes the amounts payable or refundable for the current year, the effect of deferred taxes and impacts from uncertain tax positions.
We recognize deferred tax assets and liabilities for future tax consequences attributable to differences between financial statement carrying amounts of existing assets and liabilities and their respective tax basis, net operating losses, tax credits and other carryforwards. Deferred tax assets and liabilities are measured using enacted tax rates when the assets and liabilities are expected to be realized or settled. We regularly review deferred tax assets for realizability and establish valuation allowances based on available evidence including historical operating losses, projected future taxable income, expected timing of the reversals of existing temporary differences, and appropriate tax planning strategies. If our assessment of the realizability of a deferred tax asset changes, an increase to a valuation allowance will result in a reduction to net earnings at that time, while the reduction to a valuation allowance will result in an increase to net earnings at that time.
We provide tax reserves for applicable U.S. federal, state, local and foreign tax exposures relating to periods subject to audit. The development of reserves for these exposures requires judgments about tax issues, potential outcomes and timing, and is a subjective critical estimate. We assess our tax positions and record tax benefits for all years subject to examination based upon management’s evaluation of the facts, circumstances, and information available at the reporting dates. For those tax positions where it is more-likely-than-not that a tax benefit will be sustained, we have recorded the largest amount of tax benefit with a greater than 50% likelihood of being realized upon settlement with a tax authority that has full knowledge of all relevant information. For those tax positions where it is more-likely-than-not that a tax benefit will not be sustained, no tax benefit has been recognized in the consolidated financial statements. We classify applicable interest and penalties as a component of the provision for income taxes. Although the outcome relating to these exposures is uncertain, in our opinion adequate provisions for income taxes have been made for estimable potential liabilities emanating from these exposures. If actual outcomes differ materially from these estimates, they could have a material impact on our consolidated net earnings.
For further discussion of Income Taxes, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 9 – Income Taxes.
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CAUTIONARY NOTE REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING INFORMATION
We and our representatives from time to time make written or oral forward-looking statements, including in this and other filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, in our press releases and in our reports to stockholders, which may constitute “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. Such statements may address our expectations regarding sales, earnings or other future financial performance and liquidity, other performance measures, product introductions, entry into new geographic regions, information technology initiatives, new methods of sale, our long-term strategy, restructuring and other charges and resulting cost savings, and future operations or operating results. These statements may contain words like “expect,” “will,” “will likely result,” “would,” “believe,” “estimate,” “planned,” “plans,” “intends,” “may,” “should,” “could,” “anticipate,” “estimate,” “project,” “projected,” “forecast,” and “forecasted” or similar expressions. Although we believe that our expectations are based on reasonable assumptions within the bounds of our knowledge of our business and operations, actual results may differ materially from our expectations. Factors that could cause actual results to differ from expectations include, without limitation:
(1)increased competitive activity from companies in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care businesses;
(2)our ability to develop, produce and market new products on which future operating results may depend and to successfully address challenges in our business;
(3)consolidations, restructurings, bankruptcies and reorganizations in the retail industry causing a decrease in the number of stores that sell our products, an increase in the ownership concentration within the retail industry, ownership of retailers by our competitors or ownership of competitors by our customers that are retailers and our inability to collect receivables;
(4)destocking and tighter working capital management by retailers;
(5)the success, or changes in timing or scope, of new product launches and the success, or changes in timing or scope, of advertising, sampling and merchandising programs;
(6)shifts in the preferences of consumers as to where and how they shop;
(7)social, political and economic risks to our foreign or domestic manufacturing, distribution and retail operations, including changes in foreign investment and trade policies and regulations of the host countries and of the United States;
(8)changes in the laws, regulations and policies (including the interpretations and enforcement thereof) that affect, or will affect, our business, including those relating to our products or distribution networks, changes in accounting standards, tax laws and regulations, environmental or climate change laws, regulations or accords, trade rules and customs regulations, and the outcome and expense of legal or regulatory proceedings, and any action we may take as a result;
(9)foreign currency fluctuations affecting our results of operations and the value of our foreign assets, the relative prices at which we and our foreign competitors sell products in the same markets and our operating and manufacturing costs outside of the United States;
(10)changes in global or local conditions, including those due to volatility in the global credit and equity markets, natural or man-made disasters, real or perceived epidemics, supply chain challenges, inflation, or increased energy costs, that could affect consumer purchasing, the willingness or ability of consumers to travel and/or purchase our products while traveling, the financial strength of our customers, suppliers or other contract counterparties, our operations, the cost and availability of capital which we may need for new equipment, facilities or acquisitions, the returns that we are able to generate on our pension assets and the resulting impact on funding obligations, the cost and availability of raw materials and the assumptions underlying our critical accounting estimates;
(11)impacts attributable to the COVID-19 pandemic, including disruptions to our global business;
(12)shipment delays, commodity pricing, depletion of inventory and increased production costs resulting from disruptions of operations at any of the facilities that manufacture our products or at our distribution or inventory centers, including disruptions that may be caused by the implementation of information technology initiatives, or by restructurings;
(13)real estate rates and availability, which may affect our ability to increase or maintain the number of retail locations at which we sell our products and the costs associated with our other facilities;
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(14)changes in product mix to products which are less profitable;
(15)our ability to acquire, develop or implement new information and distribution technologies and initiatives on a timely basis and within our cost estimates and our ability to maintain continuous operations of such systems and the security of data and other information that may be stored in such systems or other systems or media;
(16)our ability to capitalize on opportunities for improved efficiency, such as publicly-announced strategies and restructuring and cost-savings initiatives, and to integrate acquired businesses and realize value therefrom;
(17)consequences attributable to local or international conflicts around the world, as well as from any terrorist action, retaliation and the threat of further action or retaliation;
(18)the timing and impact of acquisitions, investments and divestitures; and
(19)additional factors as described in our filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, including this Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2022.
We assume no responsibility to update forward-looking statements made herein or otherwise.
FY 2021 10-K MD&A
SEC filing source: 0001001250-21-000127.
Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
We manufacture, market and sell beauty products including those in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care categories, which are distributed in approximately 150 countries and territories. The following table is a comparative summary of operating results for fiscal 2021, 2020 and 2019 and reflects the basis of presentation described in Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 22 – Segment Data and Related Information for all periods presented. Products and services that do not meet our definition of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care have been included in the “other” category.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2021 | 2020 | 2019 | ||||||||
| NET SALES | |||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 9,484 | $ | 7,382 | $ | 6,551 | |||||
| Makeup | 4,203 | 4,794 | 5,860 | ||||||||
| Fragrance | 1,926 | 1,563 | 1,802 | ||||||||
| Hair Care | 571 | 515 | 584 | ||||||||
| Other | 45 | 40 | 69 | ||||||||
| 16,229 | 14,294 | 14,866 | |||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (14) | — | (3) | ||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 16,215 | $ | 14,294 | $ | 14,863 | |||||
| By Region(1): | |||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 3,797 | $ | 3,794 | $ | 4,741 | |||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 6,946 | 6,262 | 6,452 | ||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 5,486 | 4,238 | 3,673 | ||||||||
| 16,229 | 14,294 | 14,866 | |||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (14) | — | (3) | ||||||||
| Net sales | $ | 16,215 | $ | 14,294 | $ | 14,863 | |||||
| OPERATING INCOME (LOSS) | |||||||||||
| By Product Category: | |||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 3,036 | $ | 2,125 | $ | 1,925 | |||||
| Makeup | (384) | (1,438) | 438 | ||||||||
| Fragrance | 215 | 17 | 140 | ||||||||
| Hair Care | (19) | (19) | 39 | ||||||||
| Other | (2) | 4 | 12 | ||||||||
| 2,846 | 689 | 2,554 | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (228) | (83) | (241) | ||||||||
| Operating income | $ | 2,618 | $ | 606 | $ | 2,313 | |||||
| By Region(1): | |||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 518 | $ | (1,044) | $ | 672 | |||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 1,335 | 997 | 1,153 | ||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 993 | 736 | 729 | ||||||||
| 2,846 | 689 | 2,554 | |||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (228) | (83) | (241) | ||||||||
| Operating income | $ | 2,618 | $ | 606 | $ | 2,313 |
(1)The net sales from our travel retail business are included in the Europe, the Middle East & Africa region, with the exception of the net sales of Dr. Jart+ in the travel retail channel that are reflected in Korea in the Asia/Pacific region. Operating income attributable to the travel retail sales included in Europe, the Middle East & Africa is included in that region and in The Americas.
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During fiscal 2020, changes were made to reflect certain Leading Beauty Forward enhancements made to the capabilities and cost structure of our travel retail business, which are primarily centralized in The Americas region, and resulted in a change to the royalty structure of the travel retail business to reflect the value created in The Americas region. Accordingly, the fiscal 2019 operating income of The Americas was increased, with a corresponding decrease in Europe, the Middle East & Africa, by $866 million, to conform with the fiscal 2021 and 2020 methodology and presentation.
The following table presents certain consolidated earnings data as a percentage of net sales:
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2021 | 2020 | 2019 | |||||||
| Net sales | 100.0 | % | 100.0 | % | 100.0 | % | |||
| Cost of sales | 23.6 | 24.8 | 22.8 | ||||||
| Gross profit | 76.4 | 75.2 | 77.2 | ||||||
| Operating expenses: | |||||||||
| Selling, general and administrative | 57.8 | 60.4 | 59.6 | ||||||
| Restructuring and other charges | 1.3 | 0.5 | 1.4 | ||||||
| Goodwill impairment | 0.3 | 5.7 | 0.5 | ||||||
| Impairment of other intangible and long-lived assets | 0.8 | 4.3 | 0.1 | ||||||
| Total operating expenses | 60.2 | 70.9 | 61.6 | ||||||
| Operating income | 16.1 | 4.2 | 15.6 | ||||||
| Interest expense | 1.1 | 1.1 | 0.9 | ||||||
| Interest income and investment income, net | 0.3 | 0.3 | 0.4 | ||||||
| Other components of net periodic benefit cost | (0.1) | — | — | ||||||
| Other income, net | 5.2 | 3.9 | 0.4 | ||||||
| Earnings before income taxes | 20.5 | 7.3 | 15.5 | ||||||
| Provision for income taxes | (2.8) | (2.4) | (3.4) | ||||||
| Net earnings | 17.7 | 4.9 | 12.1 | ||||||
| Net earnings attributable to noncontrolling interests | (0.1) | (0.1) | (0.1) | ||||||
| Net loss attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest | — | — | — | ||||||
| Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | 17.7 | % | 4.8 | % | 12.0 | % | |||
| Not adjusted for differences caused by rounding |
We continually introduce new products, support new and established products through advertising, merchandising and sampling and phase out existing products that no longer meet the needs of our consumers or our objectives. The economics of developing, producing, launching, supporting and discontinuing products impact our sales and operating performance each period. The introduction of new products may have some cannibalizing effect on sales of existing products, which we take into account in our business planning.
Non-GAAP Financial Measures
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period helps investors and others compare operating performance between periods. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. See Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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We operate on a global basis, with the majority of our net sales generated outside the United States. Accordingly, fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates can affect our results of operations. Therefore, we present certain net sales, operating results and diluted net earnings per common share information excluding the effect of foreign currency rate fluctuations to provide a framework for assessing the performance of our underlying business outside the United States. Constant currency information compares results between periods as if exchange rates had remained constant period-over-period. We calculate constant currency information by translating current-period results using prior-year period weighted-average foreign currency exchange rates and adjusting for the period-over-period impact of foreign currency cash flow hedging activities.
Overview
COVID-19 Business Update
The COVID-19 pandemic continues to disrupt our operating environment, including impacts on retail traffic and changes in certain consumer preferences. During fiscal 2021, the spread of COVID-19, as well as the resurgences in COVID-19 cases and the rapid spread of variants, including the Delta variant, particularly in the United Kingdom, Continental Europe, Latin America, and Asia outside of China, led to government restrictions to prevent further spread of the virus. Restrictions in many parts of the world at various times during fiscal 2021 have included temporary business closures, curtailment of travel, mask wearing, social distancing and quarantines.
Retail Impact
Most brick-and-mortar retail stores that sell our products, whether operated by us or our customers, were open during the fiscal 2021 second quarter in China and the United States. There were intermittent closures throughout the rest of the world, particularly in the second half of fiscal 2021. In most of the Asia/Pacific region (with the exception of China), the United Kingdom, Continental Europe, Canada, and much of Latin America, many retail stores were temporarily closed for some period during the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter due to the resurgence of COVID-19 cases. In much of the United Kingdom and Continental Europe, retail locations gradually reopened during the fourth quarter but with capacity and other safety restrictions in place. Globally, in areas where stores were open, consumer traffic has not recovered to the pre-COVID-19 pandemic levels. International travel has remained largely curtailed globally due to both government restrictions and consumer health concerns that continue to adversely impact consumer traffic in most travel retail locations. Conversely, domestic travel in China, especially in Hainan, and some other travel corridors in Asia/Pacific and The Americas were open.
Somewhat offsetting the significant declines in brick-and-mortar channels, net sales growth of our products online (through our own websites, third-party platforms and websites of our retailers) remained strong in every region during fiscal 2021.
Due in large part to the continued challenging retail environment and uncertainties stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic, we recognized Goodwill, other intangible asset and long-live asset impairments. See Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets and Note 7 – Leases for further information.
Consumer Preferences
The COVID-19 pandemic-related closures of offices, retail stores and other businesses and the significant decline in social gatherings have influenced consumer preferences and practices. Specifically, the demand for makeup continues to be weak given fewer makeup usage occasions and ongoing mask wearing, while other categories have been more resilient.
Cost Controls
In response to the ongoing impacts from the COVID-19 pandemic, we continue to implement cost control actions in certain areas of the business to effectively manage the changing business environment.
Government Assistance
Beginning in the second half of fiscal 2020, many governments in locations where we operate announced programs to assist employers whose businesses were impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, including programs that provide rebates to incentivize employers to maintain employees on payroll who were unable to work for their usual number of hours. During fiscal 2021 and 2020, we qualified for and recorded $84 million and $99 million, respectively, in government assistance, which reduced Selling, general and administrative expenses by $78 million and $87 million, respectively, and Cost of sales by $6 million and $10 million, respectively. The remaining $2 million recorded in fiscal 2020 was deferred and recognized in fiscal 2021 as a reduction to Cost of sales. We are continuing to review applicable government assistance programs globally.
We will continue to monitor the impacts of COVID-19 and adjust our action plans accordingly as the situation progresses.
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Business Update
We are a leader in prestige beauty, which combines the repeat purchase and relative affordability of consumer goods with the high quality products and services of luxury goods. Within prestige beauty, we are well diversified by product category, geography, brand, product sub-category, channel, consumer segment and price point. This diversity allows us to leverage consumer analytics and insights with agility by deploying our brands to fast growing and profitable opportunities. These analytics and insights, combined with our creativity, inform our innovation to provide a broad, locally-relevant and inclusive range of prestige products allowing us to compete effectively for a greater share of a consumer's beauty routine.
•In fiscal 2021, global prestige skin care continued to lead product category growth. Our skin care net sales benefited from the enduring strength of hero product lines such as Advanced Night Repair from Estée Lauder, Crème de La Mer from La Mer, and the Dramatically Different products and Even Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter from Clinique, as well as recent product launches, the growth in Asia and targeted expanded consumer reach. The launches of Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex, Revitalizing Supreme+ Bright, and the relaunch of Perfectionist Pro from Estée Lauder, Genaissance de la Mer The Concentrated Night Balm from La Mer, and Moisture Surge 100H Auto-Replenishing Hydrator from Clinique were particularly successful in Asia/Pacific. Net sales of skin care products in fiscal 2021 rose in every geographic region, led by Estée Lauder. La Mer and Dr. Jart+, which we acquired in December 2019.
•Global prestige makeup sales declined as COVID-19 limited social and business activities and consumers overall wore less makeup. Some sub-categories in makeup performed better in the COVID-19 environment, including lip gloss and makeup with skin care benefits such as tinted moisturizers, while demand for lipstick and foundation remained weak. During fiscal 2021, our makeup net sales benefited from targeted expanded consumer reach and the continued success of existing products, such as the Futurist line of products from Estée Lauder, The Luminous Lifting Cushion Foundation from La Mer and the Lip Injection line from Too Faced.
•Our fragrance net sales growth accelerated during fiscal 2021, driven by continued resilience in luxury fragrance. The growth was led by strength in colognes, bath, body and home subcategories at Jo Malone London, the successful launches of Bitter Peach and Rose Prick Private Blend fragrances from Tom Ford Beauty and targeted expanded consumer reach of Le Labo.
•Our hair care net sales grew as salons and retail stores reopened throughout the year and strong online growth continued. Hero products led growth at Aveda, supported by the brand’s “100% vegan” campaign.
Our global distribution capability and operations allow us to focus on targeted expanded consumer reach wherever consumer demographics and trends are the most attractive. Our regional organizations, and the expertise of our people there, enable our brands to be more locally and culturally relevant in both product assortment and communications. We are evolving the way we connect with our consumers in stores, online and where they travel, including by expanding our digital and social media presence and the engagement of global and local influencers to amplify brand or product stories. We tailor implementation of our strategy by market to drive consumer engagement and embrace cultural diversity. We continuously strengthen our presence in large, image-building core markets, while broadening our presence in emerging markets.
•In North America, we deployed a number of strategies to drive growth, which began to deliver improvements through the second half of fiscal 2021. Net sales in fiscal 2021 from our specialty-multi and online channels led growth. In Latin America, we continue to launch new brands, develop our online business, expand social media outreach and encourage consumers to trade up from mass beauty products.
•In Europe, the Middle East & Africa, we continue to expand the consumer reach of many of our brands and strengthen their digital and social media presences.
•In Asia/Pacific, particularly in China, we continue to leverage our diversified brand portfolio and expansion on third-party online malls to benefit from the strong consumer demand for prestige beauty. In mainland China, net sales grew strong double digits reflecting growth in virtually all product categories, as well as in nearly every brand and double-digit growth in every channel, led by online.
We approach distribution strategically by product category and location and seek to optimize distribution by matching our brands with appropriate opportunities while seeking to maintain high productivity per door. We are expanding our brands in online and travel retail, which we believe will be higher growth channels in the long term. We also focus on brand-building retail activities, technology-driven activations and omnichannel capabilities that enhance the shopping experience for consumers.
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•As part of this strategy, we have built a leadership position in the global travel retail channel, that historically allowed us to leverage the robust and growing international passenger traffic. While COVID-19 has significantly curtailed international travel in the near-term, we continue to believe that global travel retail is a growth opportunity for the long-term. Travel retail continues to be an important channel for brand building due to the increase in traveling consumers, particularly those from emerging markets, who often experience our brands for the first time while traveling. We continue to expand our strategic presence in travel retail across duty-free locations primarily in airports and downtown stores and increasingly through online pretail. We engage consumers at the airport through compelling pop-up activations in non-traditional commercial areas, and we ensure we have appropriate communication and curated assortments for targeted consumer groups. At the same time, travel retail is susceptible to a number of external factors, including fluctuations in currency exchange rates and consumers’ willingness and ability to travel and spend.
•Online net sales have continued to grow strongly on a global basis, rising strong double digits for fiscal 2021. Nearly every brand grew as we continue to enhance and launch e- and m-commerce sites of our own in new and existing markets, collaborate with our retail customers on their e- and m-commerce sites, and sell through select third-party online malls. We believe our success in delivering particularly strong online growth is a result of adapting our strategy to meet local market and cultural needs. We also continue to develop and implement omnichannel concepts, virtual try-on tools and compelling content to deliver an integrated consumer experience and better serve consumers as they shop across channels.
Our multiple engines of growth, which have historically enabled us to produce excellent net sales growth, are also helping to mitigate the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. We also benefited from the transformation of certain operations that freed up resources to invest behind further growth opportunities. Our Leading Beauty Forward Program and Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program (described below) enabled us to reduce costs and invest in new capabilities such as digital marketing and data analytics as well as increased advertising.
In fiscal 2021, we continued to further integrate social impact and sustainability into our strategy and business operations. Areas of differentiation include climate & energy, green chemistry, social investments, employee engagement and safety and inclusion, diversity & equity. Other areas of focus include responsible sourcing, plastics & packaging, ingredient transparency, and animal welfare.
Outlook
The COVID-19 pandemic continues to disrupt business for us, retailers and other companies with which we do business. There have been, and are likely to continue to be, intermittent store closures, as well as restructurings and bankruptcies in the retail industry, including among our customers, and shifts in preferences as to where and how consumers shop, as well as changes in their preferences for certain products. We are mindful that these trends, the resurgence of COVID-19 cases globally and the related government restrictions may continue to impact the pace of recovery. The continued curtailment in international travel is also affecting our travel retail business in most of the world, which had been historically one of our fastest growth areas. In addition to impacting net sales and profitability, these and other challenges may adversely impact the goodwill and other intangible assets associated with our brands and the long-lived assets in certain of our freestanding stores (i.e. potentially resulting in impairments).
We believe that the best way to increase long-term stockholder value is to continue providing superior products and services in the most efficient and effective manner while recognizing shifts in consumers’ behaviors and shopping practices. Accordingly, our long-term strategy has numerous initiatives across geographic regions, product categories, brands, channels of distribution and functions designed to grow our sales, provide cost efficiencies, leverage our strengths and make us more productive and profitable. We plan to build upon and leverage our history of outstanding creativity and innovation, high quality products and services, and engaging communications while investing for long-term sustainable growth.
We continue to monitor the effects of the global macroeconomic environment, including potential inflation; social and political issues; regulatory matters, including the imposition of tariffs; geopolitical tensions; and global security issues. For example, we continue to monitor the geopolitical tensions between the United States and China, which could have a material adverse effect on our business.
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The uncertainty around the timing, speed and duration of the recovery from the adverse impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic will continue to affect our ability to grow sales profitably. We believe we can, to some extent, offset the impact of more ordinary challenges by continually developing and pursuing a diversified strategy with multiple engines of growth and by accelerating initiatives focused on areas of strength, discipline and agility, and by executing upon our Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program. As the current situation progresses, if economic and social conditions or the degree of uncertainty or volatility worsen, or the adverse conditions previously described are further prolonged, there could be a further negative effect on consumer confidence, demand, spending and willingness or ability to travel and, as a result, on our business. We are continuing to monitor these and other risks that may affect our business.
Leading Beauty Forward
In May 2016, we announced a multi-year initiative (“Leading Beauty Forward” or the “LBF Program”) to build on our strengths and better leverage our cost structure to free resources for investment to continue our growth momentum. Leading Beauty Forward was designed to enhance our go-to-market capabilities, reinforce our leadership in global prestige beauty and our ability to continue creating sustainable value. As of June 30, 2019, we concluded the approvals of all major initiatives under Leading Beauty Forward related to the optimization of select corporate functions, supply chain activities, and corporate and regional market support structures, as well as the exit of underperforming businesses, and have substantially completed those initiatives through fiscal 2021. For additional information about restructuring and other charges, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 8 – Charges Associated with Restructuring and Other Activities.
Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program
On August 20, 2020, we announced a two-year restructuring program, Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program (the “PCBA Program”), designed to realign our business to address the dramatic shifts to our distribution landscape and consumer behaviors in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. The PCBA Program is designed to help improve efficiency and effectiveness by rebalancing resources to growth areas of prestige beauty. It is expected to further strengthen us by building upon the foundational capabilities in which we have invested.
The PCBA Program’s main areas of focus include accelerating the shift to online with the realignment of our distribution network reflecting freestanding store and certain department store closures, with a focus on North America and Europe, the Middle East & Africa; the reduction in brick-and-mortar point of sale employees and related support staff; and the redesign of our regional branded marketing organizations, plus select opportunities in global brands and functions. This program is expected to position us to better execute our long-term strategy while strengthening our financial flexibility.
We previously estimated a net reduction over the duration of the PCBA Program in the range of approximately 1,500 to 2,000 positions globally, including temporary and part-time employees. We have revised these estimates based on the review of the PCBA Program. At this time, we estimate a net reduction over the duration of the PCBA Program in the range of 2,000 to 2,500 positions globally, including temporary and part-time employees. This reduction takes into account the elimination of some positions, retraining and redeployment of certain employees and investment in new positions in key areas. We also estimate the closure over the duration of the PCBA Program of approximately 10% to 15% of our freestanding stores globally, primarily in Europe, the Middle East & Africa and in North America.
We plan to approve specific initiatives under the PCBA Program through fiscal 2022 and expect to complete those initiatives through fiscal 2023. We expect that the PCBA Program will result in related restructuring and other charges totaling between $400 million and $500 million, before taxes, consisting of employee-related costs, contract terminations, asset write-offs and other costs to implement these initiatives.
Once fully implemented, we expect the PCBA Program to yield annual benefits, primarily in Selling, general and administrative expenses, of between $300 million and $400 million, before taxes. We expect to reinvest a portion behind future growth initiatives. For additional information about restructuring and other charges, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 8 – Charges Associated with Restructuring and Other Activities.
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Impairment Testing
We assess goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets at least annually for impairment or more frequently if certain events or circumstances exist.
During November 2020, given the actual and the estimate of the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting us and lower than expected results from geographic expansion, we made further revisions to the internal forecasts relating to our GLAMGLOW reporting unit. We concluded that the changes in circumstances in this reporting unit triggered the need for an interim impairment review of its trademark and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of GLAMGLOW's long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, we performed an interim impairment test for the trademark and a recoverability test for the long-lived assets as of November 30, 2020. We concluded that the carrying value of the trademark for GLAMGLOW exceeded its estimated fair value, which was determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded an impairment charge of $21 million. In addition, we concluded that the carrying value of the GLAMGLOW customer lists intangible asset was fully impaired and recorded an impairment charge of $6 million. The fair value of all other long-lived assets of GLAMGLOW exceeded their carrying values and were not impaired as of November 30, 2020. After adjusting the carrying values of the trademark and customer lists intangible assets, we completed an interim quantitative impairment test for goodwill and recorded a goodwill impairment charge of $54 million, reducing the carrying value of goodwill for the GLAMGLOW reporting unit to zero. The fair value of the GLAMGLOW reporting unit was based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting unit.
Based on our annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2021, we determined that the carrying value of the GLAMGLOW and Smashbox trademarks exceeded their fair values. This determination was made based on updated internal forecasts, finalized and approved in June 2021, that reflected lower net sales growth projections due to a softer than expected retail environment for these brands, as well as the continued impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of the COVID-19 pandemic. These changes in circumstances were also indicators that the carrying amounts of their respective long-lived assets may not be recoverable. We concluded that the carrying values of the trademarks exceeded their estimated fair values, which were determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded impairment charges. We concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets were recoverable. The carrying values of the customer lists and goodwill relating to the GLAMGLOW and Smashbox reporting units were zero as of November 30, 2020 and June 30, 2020, respectively.
A summary of the impairment charges for the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2021 and the remaining trademark, customer lists and goodwill carrying values as of June 30, 2021, for each reporting unit, are as follows:
| Impairment Charge | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | Three Months Ended June 30, 2021 | Twelve Months Ended June 30, 2021 | Carrying Value as of June 30, 2021 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Reporting Unit: | Product Category | Trademark | Customer Lists | Goodwill | Trademark | Customer Lists | Goodwill | Trademark | Customer Lists | Goodwill | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| GLAMGLOW | Skin care | $ | 25 | $ | — | $ | — | $ | 46 | $ | 6 | $ | 54 | $ | 11 | $ | — | $ | — | ||||||||||||||||||
| Smashbox | Makeup | 11 | — | — | 11 | — | — | 21 | — | — | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 36 | $ | — | $ | — | $ | 57 | $ | 6 | $ | 54 | $ | 32 | $ | — | $ | — |
The impairment charges for the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2021 were reflected in the Americas region.
The fair values of all reporting units, which were determined based on qualitative or quantitative assessments, with material goodwill were substantially in excess of their respective carrying values, with the exception of the DECIEM reporting unit. The carrying values of the DECIEM reporting unit and other intangible assets as of June 30, 2021 approximated their fair values.
The fair values of the Smashbox and GLAMGLOW trademarks were equal to their carrying values subsequent to the impairment charges taken as of April 1, 2021. The key assumptions used to determine the estimated fair value of the reporting units are primarily predicated on the estimated future impacts of COVID-19, the success of future new product launches, the achievement of distribution expansion plans, and the realization of cost reduction and other efficiency efforts. If such plans do not materialize, or if there are further challenges in the business environments in which these reporting units operate, resulting changes in the key assumptions could have negative impacts on the estimated fair values of the reporting units and it is possible we could recognize additional impairment charges in the future.
For additional information, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
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Fiscal 2020 as Compared with Fiscal 2019
See Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Results of Operations of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2020 for the fiscal 2020 to fiscal 2019 comparative discussion.
Fiscal 2021 as Compared with Fiscal 2020
NET SALES
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 16,215 | $ | 14,294 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 1,921 | (569) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 13 | % | (4) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 11 | % | (3) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
The fiscal 2021 increase in reported net sales mainly reflected higher net sales in the second half of the fiscal year compared to the prior-year period. Fiscal 2020 reported net sales reflected the negative impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic that started in the second half of that fiscal year, including the temporary closing of businesses deemed “non-essential,” travel bans and restrictions, social distancing and quarantines. Reported net sales increased in fiscal 2021, primarily due to higher net sales in skin care, fragrance and hair care, as well as growth in our Asia/Pacific and Europe, the Middle East & Africa regions. Skin care net sales growth primarily reflected higher net sales from Estée Lauder, La Mer, Dr. Jart+ and Clinique, as well as incremental net sales attributable to the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter. Fragrance net sales increased, primarily benefiting from higher net sales from Jo Malone London, Tom Ford Beauty and Le Labo, and higher net sales from Aveda and Bumble and bumble drove the growth in hair care. The increase in net sales in mainland China, our travel retail business and Korea drove growth internationally. Our direct-to-consumer online net sales continued to have strong growth.
The fiscal 2021 reported net sales increase was impacted by approximately $357 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
Returns associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they result from activities that are deemed a Company-wide initiative to redesign, resize and reorganize select corporate functions and go-to-market structures. Accordingly, the following discussions of Net sales by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2021 impact of returns associated with restructuring and other activities of approximately $14 million.
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Product Categories
Skin Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 9,484 | $ | 7,382 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 2,102 | 831 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 28 | % | 13 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 25 | % | 14 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported skin care net sales increased in fiscal 2021, primarily reflecting higher net sales from Estée Lauder, La Mer, Clinique and Dr. Jart+, combined, of approximately $1,896 million, as well as incremental net sales attributable to our acquisition of Dr. Jart+ at the end of the fiscal 2020 second quarter and the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter, combined, of approximately $332 million. Net sales increased from Estée Lauder and La Mer, led by our travel retail business (primarily in Hainan) and mainland China, reflecting strong growth from direct-to-consumer online net sales of products from these brands primarily due to successful holiday and promotional events. The net sales increase from Estée Lauder reflected the continued success of hero product franchises, such as Advanced Night Repair, Nutritious, Micro Essence, Revitalizing Supreme+ and Re-Nutriv, as well as fiscal 2021 product launches, such as Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex and Revitalizing Supreme+ Bright. The increase in net sales from La Mer also benefited from the continued success of hero products, such as The Treatment Lotion, Crème de la Mer, The Moisturizing Soft Cream and The Concentrate, as well as the fiscal 2021 launch of the Genaissance de la Mer The Concentrated Night Balm and targeted expanded consumer reach. Net sales increased from Clinique, primarily due to higher net sales in our travel retail business (primarily in Hainan), and higher net sales in North America and mainland China, reflecting the continued success of existing products, such as Dramatically Different products and Even Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter, new product launches, such as Moisture Surge 100H Auto-Replenishing Hydrator, and strong direct-to-consumer online net sales growth.
The skin care net sales increase was impacted by approximately $225 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
Makeup
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 4,203 | $ | 4,794 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | (591) | (1,066) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | (12) | % | (18) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | (14) | % | (17) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported makeup net sales decreased in fiscal 2021, primarily due to lower net sales from virtually all brands, led by M·A·C and Clinique, combined, of approximately $476 million. The makeup product category continues to be more negatively impacted by the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, especially the challenging environment in brick-and-mortar retail locations and fewer makeup usage occasions. The continued decline in prestige makeup and ongoing competitive activity in North America also contributed to the decline in net sales from these brands.
The makeup net sales decrease was impacted by approximately $82 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
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Fragrance
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 1,926 | $ | 1,563 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 363 | (239) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 23 | % | (13) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 21 | % | (12) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported fragrance net sales increased in fiscal 2021, reflecting a recovery compared to the prior-year challenges, including store closures, stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic. The fiscal 2021 increase in fragrance net sales was led by higher net sales from Jo Malone London, Tom Ford Beauty and Le Labo, combined, of approximately $317 million. The increase in net sales from Jo Malone London, led by mainland China and North America, benefited from successful holiday and promotional events, the success of certain hero product franchises and the new Blossoms Collection. Net sales from Tom Ford Beauty increased, reflecting growth in all geographic regions where we continued to have success with hero products, such as Oud Wood and Black Orchid, and new product launches, such as Bitter Peach, Tubereuse Nue and Costa Azzurra. Net sales from Le Labo grew strong double digits, reflecting higher net sales in all geographic regions driven by hero fragrances, home products and targeted expanded consumer reach.
The fragrance net sales increase was impacted by approximately $41 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
Hair Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 571 | $ | 515 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 56 | (69) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 11 | % | (12) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 9 | % | (11) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported hair care net sales increased in fiscal 2021, primarily due to higher net sales from Aveda and to a lesser extent Bumble and bumble, combined, of approximately $60 million, reflecting a recovery compared to the prior-year challenges, including salon and store closures, stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic. The increase in net sales from Aveda also benefited from the success of existing product franchises, such as Nutriplenish and Invati, and the new product launch of Botanical Repair, which led to growth in all geographic regions.
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Geographic Regions
We strategically time our new product launches by geographic market, which may account for differences in regional sales growth.
The Americas
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 3,797 | $ | 3,794 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 3 | (947) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | — | % | (20) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 1 | % | (20) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Fiscal 2021 reported net sales in The Americas increased slightly as compared to the prior-year period. Reported net sales in The Americas reflected higher net sales in North America, offset by the net sales decline in Latin America due to lower net sales in Brazil. Net sales in North America increased, reflecting a recovery compared to the prior-year challenges stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic and incremental net sales from the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fourth quarter. Latin America net sales declined, due to the resurgence of COVID-19 cases in Brazil that led to government restrictions. Net sales in virtually all other markets in Latin America increased, reflecting a recovery compared to the prior-year challenges stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic. Our direct-to-consumer online net sales in The Americas grew double digits in fiscal 2021.
The net sales increase in The Americas included approximately $39 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Europe, the Middle East & Africa
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 6,946 | $ | 6,262 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 684 | (190) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 11 | % | (3) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 9 | % | (2) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa increased in fiscal 2021, reflecting higher net sales primarily in our travel retail business and Russia, combined, of approximately $633 million. The increase in net sales reflected a recovery compared to the prior-year challenges stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic. Despite the continued curtailment of international travel as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, the increase in net sales from our travel retail business was led by the continued success of hero product franchises from Estée Lauder, La Mer and Clinique, reflecting the increase in China travel retail (primarily Hainan) due, in part, to increased duty-free purchase limits and the acceleration of new digital selling models. Direct-to-consumer online net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa grew double digits in fiscal 2021.
The net sales increase in Europe, the Middle East & Africa included approximately $101 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
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Asia/Pacific
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net sales | $ | 5,486 | $ | 4,238 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 1,248 | 565 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 29 | % | 15 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change from prior year in constant currency | 22 | % | 18 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales in Asia/Pacific increased in fiscal 2021, reflecting higher net sales primarily in mainland China, Korea and Australia, combined, of approximately $1,279 million, driven by our skin care products. Incremental net sales in Asia/Pacific attributable to our acquisition of Dr. Jart+ at the end of the fiscal 2020 second quarter and the increase in our ownership of DECIEM in the fiscal 2021 fourth quarter, combined, was approximately $325 million. The increase in net sales in mainland China reflected higher net sales primarily of our skin care products, led by Estée Lauder, La Mer and Dr. Jart+, and in our third-party platform and department store channels. Net sales increased in Korea, primarily benefiting from incremental net sales from our acquisition of Dr. Jart+ at the end of the fiscal 2020 second quarter and higher net sales from Jo Malone London. The increase in net sales in Australia reflected a recovery compared to the prior-year challenges stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic. Direct-to-consumer online net sales in Asia/Pacific grew double digits in fiscal 2021.
Partially offsetting these increases in fiscal 2021, were lower net sales in Japan and Hong Kong, of approximately $71 million, combined, primarily due to the ongoing challenges stemming from the COVID-19 pandemic, including reduced consumer traffic in brick-and-mortar retail locations and the continued curtailment of international travel.
The net sales increase in Asia/Pacific included approximately $295 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
GROSS MARGIN
Gross margin in fiscal 2021 increased to 76.4% as compared with 75.2% in fiscal 2020.
| Fiscal 2021 vs. Fiscal 2020Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points | |
|---|---|
| Mix of business | 100 |
| Obsolescence charges | 40 |
| Foreign exchange transactions | (40) |
| Manufacturing costs and other | 20 |
| Subtotal | 120 |
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | — |
| Total | 120 |
The favorable impact from our mix of business for fiscal 2021 was primarily due to the favorable change in strategic pricing, lower costs from product sets and lower costs of promotional items as a result of reduced consumer traffic in brick-and-mortar retail locations.
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OPERATING EXPENSES
Operating expenses as a percentage of net sales in fiscal 2021 decreased to 60.2% as compared with 70.9% in fiscal 2020.
| Fiscal 2021 vs. Fiscal 2020Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points | |
|---|---|
| General and administrative expenses | (120) |
| Advertising, merchandising, sampling and product development | 100 |
| Selling | 310 |
| Shipping | — |
| Store operating costs | 60 |
| Stock-based compensation | (60) |
| Foreign exchange transactions | 10 |
| Subtotal | 300 |
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (80) |
| Goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | 890 |
| Changes in fair value of contingent consideration | (10) |
| Acquisition-related stock option expense | (30) |
| Total | 1,070 |
The fiscal 2021 decrease in operating expense margin was driven by the favorable year-over-year comparison of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments of $1,238 million and a decrease in selling expense, due to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on brick-and-mortar retail locations, including the decline in consumer traffic, store closures, and the continued shift in consumer preference to online. The advertising, merchandising, sampling and product development favorability was driven by the increase in net sales, partially offset by the increase in advertising and promotional expense, primarily due to continued strategic investments and a difficult comparison to the prior-year period that reflected cost saving actions implemented in response to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Partially offsetting these favorable impacts were increases in general and administrative expenses, primarily due to an increase in employee incentive compensation as compared to the prior-year period, which reflected lower accrued employee incentive compensation attributable to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on performance.
OPERATING RESULTS
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 2,618 | $ | 606 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 2,012 | (1,707) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 100+% | (74) | % | ||||
| Operating Margin | 16.1 | % | 4.2 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments, changes in fair value of contingent consideration and acquisition-related stock option expense | 46 | % | (20) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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The reported operating margin for fiscal 2021 increased from the prior year driven primarily by the year-over-year comparison of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments of $1,238 million, or 890 bps, the decrease in operating expenses as a percentage of net sales and the increase in gross margin, as previously noted.
The fiscal 2021 and 2020 goodwill, intangible and long-lived asset impairments and the changes in fair value of contingent consideration impacted the operating results of our product categories and geographic regions as follows:
| Year endedJune 30, 2021 | Year endedJune 30, 2020 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | Changes in fair value of contingent consideration | Goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | Net Impact | Changes in fair value of contingent consideration | Goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | Net Impact | Year-over-year net impact favorable (unfavorable) | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Product Category: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | — | $ | (107) | $ | (107) | $ | 7 | $ | (88) | $ | (81) | $ | (26) | |||||||||||||
| Makeup | — | (63) | (63) | — | (1,291) | (1,291) | 1,228 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 2 | (14) | (12) | 10 | (32) | (22) | 10 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | — | (4) | (4) | — | (14) | (14) | 10 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Other | — | — | — | — | (1) | (1) | 1 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 2 | $ | (188) | $ | (186) | $ | 17 | $ | (1,426) | $ | (1,409) | $ | 1,223 | |||||||||||||
| Region: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | — | $ | (140) | $ | (140) | $ | 7 | $ | (1,314) | $ | (1,307) | $ | 1,167 | |||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 2 | (48) | (46) | 10 | (104) | (94) | 48 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | — | — | — | — | (8) | (8) | 8 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 2 | $ | (188) | $ | (186) | $ | 17 | $ | (1,426) | $ | (1,409) | $ | 1,223 |
Charges associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they are centrally directed and controlled, are not included in internal measures of product category or geographic region performance and result from activities that are deemed Company-wide initiatives to redesign, resize and reorganize select areas of the business. Accordingly, the following discussions of Operating income by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2021 and 2020 impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities of $228 million, or 1% of net sales and $83 million, or 1% of net sales, respectively.
Product Categories
Skin Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 3,036 | $ | 2,125 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 911 | 200 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 43 | % | 10 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments, changes in fair value of contingent consideration and acquisition-related stock option expense | 44 | % | 16 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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Reported skin care operating income increased in fiscal 2021, primarily driven by higher results from Estée Lauder, La Mer and Clinique, combined, of approximately $1,183 million. The increases in operating income from these brands primarily reflected higher net sales, as well as lower selling expenses due to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on brick-and-mortar retail locations, discussed above. These increases were partially offset by increased advertising and promotional activities primarily to support holiday and promotional events and new product launches.
Partially offsetting these increases in operating income were higher general and administrative expenses, primarily due to increased employee incentive compensation from the prior-year period, which reflected lower accrued employee incentive compensation attributable to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on performance, as well as acquisition-related expenses, primarily related to DECIEM's stock options of $40 million. See Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 18 – Stock Plans for additional information relating to DECIEM stock options.
Makeup
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | (384) | $ | (1,438) | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 1,054 | (1,876) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 73 | % | (100+)% | ||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | (100+)% | (100+)% |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported makeup operating results increased in fiscal 2021, driven by the favorable year-over-year comparison of goodwill and other intangible asset impairments related to Too Faced, BECCA and Smashbox, combined, of $1,120 million and freestanding store long-lived asset impairments relating to COVID-19 of approximately $108 million.
Partially offsetting the decreases in operating loss were lower results from M·A·C primarily due to the decrease in net sales, offset by lower selling expense and store operating costs, due to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on brick-and-mortar retail locations, discussed above.
Fragrance
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 215 | $ | 17 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 198 | (123) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 100+% | (88) | % | ||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments and changes in fair value of contingent consideration | 100+% | (70) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported fragrance operating results increased in fiscal 2021, primarily driven by higher results from Tom Ford Beauty and Jo Malone London, combined, of approximately $183 million. The increase in operating results from these brands reflected higher net sales, partially offset by increased advertising and promotional activities primarily to support holiday and promotional events and new product launches.
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Partially offsetting these increases in operating income were higher general and administrative expenses, primarily due to increased employee incentive compensation from the prior-year period, which reflected lower accrued employee incentive compensation attributable to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on performance.
Hair Care
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | (19) | $ | (19) | |||
| $ Change from prior year | — | (58) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | — | % | (100+)% | ||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of long-lived asset impairments | (100+)% | (100+)% |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported hair care operating results in fiscal 2021 were flat as compared to the prior-year period. Fiscal 2021 operating results reflected higher general and administrative expenses primarily due to increased employee incentive compensation from the prior-year period, which reflected lower accrued employee incentive compensation attributable to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on performance. This decrease in operating results in fiscal 2021 is partially offset by higher operating results from Aveda, primarily driven by higher net sales, and the favorable year-over-year impact of freestanding store long-lived asset impairments relating to COVID-19 of approximately $10 million.
Geographic Regions
The Americas
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 518 | $ | (1,044) | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 1,562 | (1,716) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 100+% | (100+)% | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments, changes in fair value of contingent consideration and acquisition-related stock option expense | 100+% | (64) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported operating results in The Americas increased in fiscal 2021, primarily due to the favorable year-over-year comparison of goodwill, other intangible and freestanding store long-lived asset impairments and the change in fair value of contingent consideration of $1,167 million. The increase in operating results also reflected higher intercompany royalty income primarily from the growth in our travel retail business, as well as lower selling expenses due to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on brick-and-mortar retail locations, discussed above.
Partially offsetting these increases in operating results were higher general and administrative expenses, primarily due to increased employee incentive compensation from the prior-year period, which reflected lower accrued employee incentive compensation attributable to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic on performance, and increased advertising and promotional activities primarily to support holiday and promotional events.
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Europe, the Middle East & Africa
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 1,335 | $ | 997 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 338 | (156) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 34 | % | (14) | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of long-lived asset impairments and changes in fair value of contingent consideration | 27 | % | (5) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported operating results in Europe, the Middle East & Africa increased in fiscal 2021, primarily driven by higher results from our travel retail business and France, combined, of approximately $247 million, reflecting disciplined expense management, and higher nets sales from our travel retail business. The increase in fiscal 2021 operating results also benefited from the favorable year-over-year comparison of freestanding store long-lived asset impairments relating to COVID-19 of $56 million.
Asia/Pacific
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Operating income | $ | 993 | $ | 736 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 257 | 7 | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 35 | % | 1 | % | |||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in operating income from prior year adjusting for the impact of long-lived asset impairments | 33 | % | 2 | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 47 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported operating income in Asia/Pacific increased in fiscal 2021, primarily driven by higher results from mainland China and Korea, combined, of approximately $227 million, reflecting the increase in net sales. The increase in net sales in mainland China was partially offset by the increase in advertising and promotional expense, primarily due to investments to support holiday events and campaigns and new product launches and a difficult comparison to the prior-year period that reflected cost saving actions implemented in response to the impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Partially offsetting the increase in operating income was lower results from Japan, reflecting the decrease in net sales.
INTEREST AND INVESTMENT INCOME
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| Interest expense | $ | 173 | $ | 161 | |||
| Interest income and investment income, net | $ | 51 | $ | 48 |
Interest expense increased in fiscal 2021 primarily due to the issuance of additional long-term debt in November 2019, April 2020 and March 2021, partially offset by the favorable impact from interest rate swaps.
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Interest income and investment income, net increased reflecting higher equity method investment income from our minority investments, partially offset by decreases in investment income due to lower interest rates.
OTHER INCOME, NET
On May 18, 2021, we acquired additional shares in DECIEM, a Toronto-based skin care company, for $1,092 million in cash, including proceeds from the issuance of debt. DECIEM is a multi-brand beauty company with a brand portfolio that includes The Ordinary and NIOD. This acquisition is expected to further strengthen our leadership position in prestige skin care, expand our global consumer reach and complement our business in the online and specialty-multi channels. We originally acquired a minority interest in DECIEM in June 2017. The minority interest was accounted for as an equity method investment, which had a carrying value of $65 million at the acquisition date. The acquisition of additional shares increased our fully diluted equity interest from approximately 29% to approximately 76% and was considered a step acquisition. On a fully diluted basis, the DECIEM stock options approximated 4% of the total capital structure. Accordingly, for purposes of determining the consideration transferred, we excluded the DECIEM stock options, which resulted in an increase in our post-acquisition undiluted equity interest from approximately 30% to approximately 78% and the post-acquisition undiluted equity interest of the remaining noncontrolling interest holders of approximately 22%. We remeasured the previously held equity method investment to its fair value of $912 million, resulting in the recognition of a gain of $847 million. The gain on our previously held equity method investment is included in Other income, net in the accompanying consolidated statements of earnings for the year ended June 30, 2021. As part of the increase in our investment, we were granted the right to purchase (Call Option), and granted the remaining investors a right to sell to us (Put Option), the remaining interests after a three-year period, with a purchase price based on the future performance of DECIEM (the net Put (Call) Option). As a result of this redemption feature, we recorded redeemable noncontrolling interest, at its acquisition‑date fair value, that is classified as mezzanine equity in the accompanying consolidated balance sheets at June 30, 2021.
See Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 5 – Acquisition of Businesses for additional information.
On December 18, 2019, we acquired the remaining equity interest in Have&Be Co. Ltd. (“Have & Be”), the global skin care company behind Dr. Jart+ and men’s grooming brand Do The Right Thing, for $1,268 million in cash. Based on the final purchase price and working capital adjustments, we estimated a refund receivable of $32 million that was outstanding as of June 30, 2020 and was received in the first quarter of fiscal 2021. We originally acquired a minority interest in Have & Be in December 2015, which included a formula-based call option for the remaining equity interest. The original minority interest was accounted for as an equity method investment, which had a carrying value of $133 million at the acquisition date. The acquisition of the remaining equity interest in Have & Be was considered a step acquisition, whereby we remeasured the previously held equity method investment to its fair value of $660 million, resulting in the recognition of a gain of $530 million. The acquisition of the remaining equity interest also resulted in the recognition of a previously unrealized foreign currency gain of $4 million, which was reclassified from accumulated other comprehensive income. The total gain on our previously held equity method investment of $534 million is included in Other income, net in the accompanying consolidated statements of earnings for the year ended June 30, 2020.
The amount paid at closing was funded by cash on hand including the proceeds from the issuance of debt. In anticipation of the closing, we transferred cash to a foreign subsidiary for purposes of making the closing payment. As a result, we recognized a foreign currency gain of $23 million, which is also included in Other income, net in the accompanying consolidated statements of earnings for the year ended June 30, 2020.
The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act (the “TCJA”), which was enacted on December 22, 2017, presented us with opportunities to manage cash and investments more efficiently on a global basis. Accordingly, during fiscal 2019, as part of the assessment of those opportunities, we sold our available-for-sale securities, which liquidated our investment in the foreign subsidiary that owned those securities. As a result, we recorded a realized foreign currency gain on liquidation of $77 million and a gross loss on the sale of available-for-sale securities of $6 million, both of which were reclassified from accumulated OCI and are reflected in Other income, net for the year ended June 30, 2019. See Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies – Currency Translation and Transactions for further information.
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PROVISION FOR INCOME TAXES
The provision for income taxes represents U.S. federal, foreign, state and local income taxes. The effective rate differs from the federal statutory rate primarily due to the effect of state and local income taxes, the tax impact of share-based compensation, the taxation of foreign income and income tax reserve adjustments, which represent changes in our net liability for unrecognized tax benefits including tax settlements and lapses of the applicable statutes of limitations. Our effective tax rate will change from year-to-year based on recurring and non-recurring factors including the geographical mix of earnings, enacted tax legislation, state and local income taxes, tax reserve adjustments, the tax impact of share-based compensation, the interaction of various global tax strategies and the impact from certain acquisitions.
The TCJA included broad and complex changes to the U.S. tax code that impacted our accounting and reporting for income taxes. See Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 9 – Income Taxes for further discussion relating to the TCJA.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| Earnings before income taxes: | $ | 3,331 | $ | 1,046 | |||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes | 13.7 | % | 33.5 | % | |||
| Basis-point change from prior year(1) | (1,980) | 1,130 | |||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(2): | |||||||
| Effective rate for income taxes | 18.7 | % | 23.2 | % |
(1)For fiscal 2021 and 2020, the basis-point change in our effective tax rate was materially impacted by the increase from fiscal 2020 to fiscal 2021 and the decrease from fiscal 2019 to fiscal 2020, respectively, in earnings before income taxes.
(2)Fiscal 2021 and 2020 effective tax rates exclude the net impact on the effective tax rates of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill and other intangible asset impairments, other income, net and changes in the fair value of contingent consideration. There was no tax expense associated with the fiscal 2021 other income, net adjustment (previously held equity method investment in DECIEM). Fiscal 2021 was also adjusted to exclude the DECIEM stock option expense.
The effective tax rate for fiscal 2021 decreased approximately 1,980 basis points. The decrease was primarily attributable to a lower effective tax rate on our foreign operations of approximately 920 basis points, which included the impact of the U.S. government issuance of final global intangible low-taxed income (“GILTI”) tax regulations in July 2020 under the TCJA that provide for a high-tax exception to the current and applicable prior years’ GILTI tax, the impact of the gain on our previously held equity method investment in DECIEM with no associated tax expense of approximately 530 basis points, as well as the prior-year impact of nondeductible goodwill impairment charges associated with our Too Faced, BECCA and Smashbox reporting units of approximately 790 basis points. Partially offsetting these decreases was a decrease in excess tax benefit credits related to stock-based compensation arrangements of approximately 450 basis points.
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NET EARNINGS ATTRIBUTABLE TO THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC.
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions, except per share data) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| As Reported: | |||||||
| Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | $ | 2,870 | $ | 684 | |||
| $ Change from prior year | 2,186 | (1,101) | |||||
| % Change from prior year | 100+% | (62) | % | ||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share | $ | 7.79 | $ | 1.86 | |||
| % Change from prior year | 100+% | (61) | % | ||||
| Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | |||||||
| % Change in diluted net earnings per common share from prior year adjusting for the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities, goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments, other income, net, changes in fair value of contingent consideration, and acquisition-related stock option expense | 57 | % | (23) | % |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” below for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
RECONCILIATIONS OF NON-GAAP FINANCIAL MEASURES
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period, or do not reflect the Company’s underlying ongoing business, provides transparency for such items and helps investors and others compare and analyze our operating performance from period to period. In the future, we expect to incur charges or adjustments similar in nature to those presented below; however, the impact to the Company’s results in a given period may be highly variable and difficult to predict. Our non-GAAP financial measures may not be comparable to similarly titled measures used by, or determined in a manner consistent with, other companies. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. The following tables present Net sales, Operating income and Diluted net earnings per common share adjusted to exclude the impact of charges associated with restructuring and other activities; goodwill and other intangible asset impairments; long-lived asset impairments relating to COVID-19; other income, net; the changes in the fair value of contingent consideration; acquisition-related stock option expense; and the effects of foreign currency translation. The tables provide reconciliations between these non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
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| Year Ended June 30 | % Change | % Change in Constant Currency | ||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ($ in millions, except per share data) | 2021 | 2020 | Variance | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales, as reported | $ | 16,215 | $ | 14,294 | $ | 1,921 | 13 | % | 11 | % | ||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | 14 | — | 14 | |||||||||||||||
| Net sales, as adjusted | $ | 16,229 | $ | 14,294 | $ | 1,935 | 14 | % | 11 | % | ||||||||
| Operating income, as reported | $ | 2,618 | $ | 606 | $ | 2,012 | 100+% | 100+% | ||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | 228 | 83 | 145 | |||||||||||||||
| Goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | 188 | 1,426 | (1,238) | |||||||||||||||
| Changes in fair value of contingent consideration | (2) | (17) | 15 | |||||||||||||||
| Acquisition-related stock option expense | 40 | — | 40 | |||||||||||||||
| Operating income, as adjusted | $ | 3,072 | $ | 2,098 | $ | 974 | 46 | % | 44 | % | ||||||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share, as reported | $ | 7.79 | $ | 1.86 | $ | 5.93 | 100+% | 100+% | ||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | .48 | .19 | .29 | |||||||||||||||
| Other income, net | (2.30) | (1.20) | (1.10) | |||||||||||||||
| Goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | .40 | 3.31 | (2.91) | |||||||||||||||
| Changes in fair value of contingent consideration | (.01) | (.04) | .03 | |||||||||||||||
| Acquisition-related stock option expense | .09 | — | .09 | |||||||||||||||
| Diluted net earnings per common share, as adjusted | $ | 6.45 | $ | 4.12 | $ | 2.33 | 57 | % | 54 | % |
As diluted net earnings per common share, as adjusted, is used as a measure of the Company’s performance, we consider the impact of current and deferred income taxes when calculating the per-share impact of each of the reconciling items.
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The following table reconciles the change in net sales by product category and geographic region, as reported, to the change in net sales excluding the effects of foreign currency translation:
| As Reported | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year Ended June 30 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | Variance | Impact of foreign currency translation | Variance, in constant currency | % Change, as reported | % Change, in constant currency | |||||||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 9,484 | $ | 7,382 | $ | 2,102 | $ | (225) | $ | 1,877 | 28 | % | 25 | % | ||||||||||||
| Makeup | 4,203 | 4,794 | (591) | (82) | (673) | (12) | (14) | |||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 1,926 | 1,563 | 363 | (41) | 322 | 23 | 21 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | 571 | 515 | 56 | (8) | 48 | 11 | 9 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Other | 45 | 40 | 5 | (1) | 4 | 13 | 10 | |||||||||||||||||||
| 16,229 | 14,294 | 1,935 | (357) | 1,578 | 14 | 11 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (14) | — | (14) | — | (14) | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 16,215 | $ | 14,294 | $ | 1,921 | $ | (357) | $ | 1,564 | 13 | % | 11 | % | ||||||||||||
| By Region: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 3,797 | $ | 3,794 | $ | 3 | $ | 39 | $ | 42 | — | % | 1 | % | ||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 6,946 | 6,262 | 684 | (101) | 583 | 11 | 9 | |||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 5,486 | 4,238 | 1,248 | (295) | 953 | 29 | 22 | |||||||||||||||||||
| 16,229 | 14,294 | 1,935 | (357) | 1,578 | 14 | 11 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | (14) | — | (14) | — | (14) | |||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 16,215 | $ | 14,294 | $ | 1,921 | $ | (357) | $ | 1,564 | 13 | % | 11 | % |
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The following table reconciles the change in operating income by product category and geographic region, as reported, to the change in operating income excluding the impact of goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments, changes in fair value of contingent consideration and acquisition-related stock option expense:
| As Reported | Add: Changes in Goodwill, other intangible and long-lived asset impairments | Add: Changes in fair value of contingent consideration | Add: Acquisition-related stock option expense | Variance, as adjusted | % Change, as reported | % Change, as adjusted | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Year Ended June 30 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| ($ in millions) | 2021 | 2020 | Variance | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| By Product Category: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Skin Care | $ | 3,036 | $ | 2,125 | $ | 911 | $ | 19 | $ | 7 | $ | 40 | $ | 977 | 43 | % | 44 | % | ||||||||||||||||
| Makeup | (384) | (1,438) | 1,054 | (1,228) | — | — | (174) | 73 | (100+) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Fragrance | 215 | 17 | 198 | (18) | 8 | — | 188 | 100+ | 100+ | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Hair Care | (19) | (19) | — | (10) | — | — | (10) | — | (100+) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Other | (2) | 4 | (6) | (1) | — | — | (7) | (100+) | (100+) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 2,846 | 689 | $ | 2,157 | $ | (1,238) | $ | 15 | $ | 40 | $ | 974 | 100+% | 46 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (228) | (83) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 2,618 | $ | 606 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| By Region: | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| The Americas | $ | 518 | $ | (1,044) | $ | 1,562 | $ | (1,174) | $ | 7 | $ | 40 | $ | 435 | 100+% | 100+% | ||||||||||||||||||
| Europe, the Middle East & Africa | 1,335 | 997 | 338 | (56) | 8 | — | 290 | 34 | 27 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Asia/Pacific | 993 | 736 | 257 | (8) | — | — | 249 | 35 | 33 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 2,846 | 689 | $ | 2,157 | $ | (1,238) | $ | 15 | $ | 40 | $ | 974 | 100+% | 46 | % | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | (228) | (83) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Total | $ | 2,618 | $ | 606 |
FINANCIAL CONDITION
LIQUIDITY AND CAPITAL RESOURCES
Overview
Our principal sources of funds historically have been cash flows from operations, borrowings pursuant to our commercial paper program, borrowings from the issuance of long-term debt and committed and uncommitted credit lines provided by banks and other lenders in the United States and abroad. At June 30, 2021, we had cash and cash equivalents of $4,958 million compared with $5,022 million at June 30, 2020. Our cash and cash equivalents are maintained at a number of financial institutions. To mitigate the risk of uninsured balances, we select financial institutions based on their credit ratings and financial strength, and we perform ongoing evaluations of these institutions to limit our concentration risk exposure.
Based on past performance and current expectations, we believe that cash on hand, cash generated from operations, available credit lines and access to credit markets will be adequate to support seasonal working capital needs, currently planned business operations, information technology enhancements, capital expenditures, acquisitions, dividends, stock repurchases, restructuring initiatives, commitments and other contractual obligations on both a near-term and long-term basis.
The TCJA resulted in the Transition Tax on unrepatriated earnings of our foreign subsidiaries and changed the tax law in ways that present opportunities to repatriate cash without additional U.S. federal income tax. As a result, we changed our indefinite reinvestment assertion related to certain foreign earnings, and we continue to analyze the indefinite reinvestment assertion on our remaining applicable foreign earnings. We do not believe that continuing to reinvest our foreign earnings impairs our ability to meet our domestic debt or working capital obligations. If these reinvested earnings were repatriated into the United States as dividends, we would be subject to state income taxes and applicable foreign taxes in certain jurisdictions.
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The effects of inflation have not been significant to our overall operating results in recent years, however we are mindful of emerging inflationary pressures. Generally, we have been able to introduce new products at higher prices, increase prices and implement other operating efficiencies to sufficiently offset cost increases, which have been moderate.
Credit Ratings
Changes in our credit ratings will likely result in changes in our borrowing costs. Our credit ratings also impact the cost of our revolving credit facility. Downgrades in our credit ratings may reduce our ability to issue commercial paper and/or long-term debt and would likely increase the relative costs of borrowing. A credit rating is not a recommendation to buy, sell, or hold securities, is subject to revision or withdrawal at any time by the assigning rating organization, and should be evaluated independently of any other rating. As of August 20, 2021, our long-term debt is rated A+ with a stable outlook by Standard & Poor’s and A1 with a stable outlook by Moody’s.
Debt and Access to Liquidity
Total debt as a percent of total capitalization (excluding noncontrolling interests) decreased to 48% at June 30, 2021 from 61% at June 30, 2020, primarily due to the increase in total equity reflecting an increase in net earnings, partially offset by a higher treasury stock balance. Also contributing to the decrease was a decrease in total debt, primarily due to the fiscal 2021 repayments of the $750 million outstanding under our $1,500 million revolving credit facility and the $450 million aggregate principal amount of our 1.70% Senior Notes due May 10, 2021, partially offset by the March 2021 issuance of $600 million aggregate principal amount of our 1.950% Senior Notes due March 15, 2031.
For further information regarding our current and long-term debt and available financing, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 11 – Debt.
Cash Flows
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | 2021 | 2020 | |||||
| Net cash provided by operating activities | $ | 3,631 | $ | 2,280 | |||
| Net cash used for investing activities | $ | (1,864) | $ | (1,698) | |||
| Net cash provided by (used for) financing activities | $ | (1,892) | $ | 1,461 |
The change in net cash flows from operations reflected higher earnings before taxes, excluding non-cash items, as well as the improvement in working capital. The improvement in working capital was primarily due to other accrued liabilities, including an increase in accrued employee incentive compensation and the settlement of foreign currency forward contracts, and accounts payable, partially offset by the unfavorable change in accounts receivable due primarily to the increase in net sales.
The change in net cash flows used for investing activities primarily reflected the settlement of net investment hedges, which is offset by the improvement in other accrued liabilities discussed above. Net cash used for investing activities in fiscal 2021 and fiscal 2020 included cash paid, net of cash acquired, in connection with the acquisition of additional shares in DECIEM and the acquisition of Have & Be, respectively.
The change in net cash flows from financing activities primarily reflected lower proceeds relating to the issuance of long-term debt (the November 2019 and April 2020 issuances in fiscal 2020, compared to the March 2021 issuance in fiscal 2021), the fiscal 2021 repayment of borrowings under our revolving credit facility, partially offset by lower treasury stock repurchases.
See Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Financial Condition of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2020 for the fiscal 2020 to fiscal 2019 comparative discussions.
Dividends
For a summary of quarterly cash dividends declared per share on our Class A and Class B Common Stock during the year ended June 30, 2021 and through August 20, 2021, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 17 – Common Stock.
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Pension and Post-retirement Plan Funding
Several factors influence the annual funding requirements for our pension plans. For our domestic trust-based noncontributory qualified defined benefit pension plan (“U.S. Qualified Plan”), we seek to maintain appropriate funded percentages. For any future contributions to the U.S. Qualified Plan, we would seek to contribute an amount or amounts that would not be less than the minimum required by the Employee Retirement Income Security Act of 1974, as amended, (“ERISA”) and subsequent pension legislation, and would not be more than the maximum amount deductible for income tax purposes. For each international plan, our funding policies are determined by local laws and regulations. In addition, amounts necessary to fund future obligations under these plans could vary depending on estimated assumptions. The effect of our pension plan funding on future operating results will depend on economic conditions, employee demographics, mortality rates, the number of participants electing to take lump-sum distributions, investment performance and funding decisions.
For the U.S. Qualified Plan, we maintain an investment strategy of matching the duration of a substantial portion of the plan assets with the duration of the underlying plan liabilities. This strategy assists us in maintaining our overall funded ratio. For fiscal 2021 and 2020, we met or exceeded all contribution requirements under ERISA regulations for the U.S. Qualified Plan. As we continue to monitor the funded status, we may decide to make cash contributions to the U.S. Qualified Plan or our post-retirement medical plan in the United States during fiscal 2022.
The following table summarizes actual and expected benefit payments and contributions for our other pension and post-retirement plans:
| Year Ended June 30 | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| (In millions) | Expected 2022 | 2021 | 2020 | ||||||||
| Non-qualified domestic noncontributory pension plan benefit payments | $ | 23 | $ | 19 | $ | 18 | |||||
| International defined benefit pension plan contributions | $ | 38 | $ | 40 | $ | 25 | |||||
| Post-retirement plan benefit payments | $ | 9 | $ | 7 | $ | 8 |
Commitments and Contingencies
For a discussion of our contingencies, see to Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 16 – Commitments and Contingencies (Contractual Obligations).
Contractual Obligations
For a discussion of our contractual obligations, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 16 – Commitments and Contingencies (Contractual Obligations).
Derivative Financial Instruments and Hedging Activities
For a discussion of our derivative financial instruments and hedging activities, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Derivative Financial Instruments.
Foreign Exchange Risk Management
For a discussion of foreign exchange risk management, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Derivative Financial Instruments (Cash Flow Hedges, Net Investment Hedges).
Credit Risk
For a discussion of credit risk, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 12 – Derivative Financial Instruments (Credit Risk).
Market Risk
We address certain financial exposures through a controlled program of market risk management that includes the use of foreign currency forward contracts to reduce the effects of fluctuating foreign currency exchange rates and to mitigate the change in fair value of specific assets and liabilities on the balance sheet. To perform a sensitivity analysis of our foreign currency forward contracts, we assess the change in fair values from the impact of hypothetical changes in foreign currency exchange rates. A hypothetical 10% weakening of the U.S. dollar against the foreign exchange rates for the currencies in our portfolio would have resulted in a net decrease in the fair value of our portfolio of approximately $218 million and $222 million as of June 30, 2021 and 2020, respectively. This potential change does not consider our underlying foreign currency exposures.
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In addition, we enter into interest rate derivatives to manage the effects of interest rate movements on our aggregate liability portfolio, including future debt issuances. Based on a hypothetical 100 basis point increase in interest rates, the estimated fair value of our interest rate derivatives would increase (decrease) by approximately $(83) million and $9 million as of June 30, 2021 and 2020, respectively.
Our sensitivity analysis represents an estimate of reasonably possible net losses that would be recognized on our portfolio of derivative financial instruments assuming hypothetical movements in future market rates and is not necessarily indicative of actual results, which may or may not occur. It does not represent the maximum possible loss or any expected loss that may occur, since actual future gains and losses will differ from those estimated, based upon actual fluctuations in market rates, operating exposures, and the timing thereof, and changes in our portfolio of derivative financial instruments during the year. We believe, however, that any such loss incurred would be offset by the effects of market rate movements on the respective underlying transactions for which the derivative financial instrument was intended.
OFF-BALANCE SHEET ARRANGEMENTS
We do not maintain any off-balance sheet arrangements, transactions, obligations or other relationships with unconsolidated entities that would be expected to have a material current or future effect upon our financial condition or results of operations.
RECENTLY ISSUED ACCOUNTING STANDARDS
Refer to Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies for discussion regarding the impact of accounting standards that were recently issued but not yet effective, on our consolidated financial statements.
CRITICAL ACCOUNTING POLICIES AND ESTIMATES
The discussion and analysis of our financial condition at June 30, 2021 and our results of operations for the three fiscal years ended June 30, 2021 are based upon our consolidated financial statements, which have been prepared in conformity with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles (“U.S. GAAP”). The preparation of these financial statements requires us to make estimates and assumptions that affect the amounts of assets, liabilities, revenues and expenses reported in those financial statements. These estimates and assumptions can be subjective and complex and, consequently, actual results could differ from those estimates. We consider accounting estimates to be critical if both (i) the nature of the estimate or assumption is material due to the levels of subjectivity and judgment involved, and (ii) the impact within a reasonable range of outcomes of the estimate and assumption is material to the Company’s financial condition. Our critical accounting policies relate to goodwill, other intangible assets and long-lived assets - impairment assessment, income taxes and business combinations.
Management of the Company has discussed the selection of critical accounting policies and the effect of estimates with the Audit Committee of the Company’s Board of Directors.
Goodwill, Other Intangible Assets and Long-Lived Assets – Impairment Assessment
Goodwill is calculated as the excess of the cost of purchased businesses over the fair value of their underlying net assets. Other indefinite-lived intangible assets principally consist of trademarks. Goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets are not amortized.
When testing goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible assets for impairment, we have the option of first performing a qualitative assessment to determine whether it is more-likely-than-not that the fair value of a reporting unit is less than its carrying amount as a basis for determining whether it is necessary to perform a quantitative impairment test. If necessary, we can perform a single step quantitative goodwill impairment test by comparing the fair value of a reporting unit with its carrying amount and record an impairment charge for the amount that the carrying amount exceeds the fair value, up to the total amount of goodwill allocated to that reporting unit. For fiscal 2021 and 2020, we elected to perform the qualitative assessment for certain of our reporting units and indefinite-lived intangible assets. This qualitative assessment included the review of certain macroeconomic factors and entity-specific qualitative factors to determine if it was more-likely-than-not that the fair values of our reporting units were below carrying value. For our other reporting units and other indefinite-lived intangible assets, a quantitative assessment was performed. We engaged third-party valuation specialists and used industry accepted valuation models and criteria that were reviewed and approved by various levels of management.
For further discussion of the methods used and factors considered in our estimates as part of the impairment testing for Goodwill, Other Intangible Assets and Long-Lived Assets, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets and Note 7 – Leases.
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Income Taxes
We calculate and provide for income taxes in each tax jurisdiction in which we operate. As the application of various tax laws relevant to our global business is often uncertain, significant judgment is required in determining our annual tax expense and in evaluating our tax positions. The provision for income taxes includes the amounts payable or refundable for the current year, the effect of deferred taxes and impacts from uncertain tax positions.
We recognize deferred tax assets and liabilities for future tax consequences attributable to differences between financial statement carrying amounts of existing assets and liabilities and their respective tax basis, net operating losses, tax credit and other carryforwards. Deferred tax assets and liabilities are measured using enacted tax rates when the assets and liabilities are expected to be realized or settled. We regularly review deferred tax assets for realizability and establish valuation allowances based on available evidence including historical operating losses, projected future taxable income, expected timing of the reversals of existing temporary differences, and appropriate tax planning strategies. If our assessment of the realizability of a deferred tax asset changes, an increase to a valuation allowance will result in a reduction of net earnings at that time, while the reduction of a valuation allowance will result in an increase of net earnings at that time.
We provide tax reserves for applicable U.S. federal, state, local and foreign tax exposures relating to periods subject to audit. The development of reserves for these exposures requires judgments about tax issues, potential outcomes and timing, and is a subjective critical estimate. We assess our tax positions and record tax benefits for all years subject to examination based upon management’s evaluation of the facts, circumstances, and information available at the reporting dates. For those tax positions where it is more-likely-than-not that a tax benefit will be sustained, we have recorded the largest amount of tax benefit with a greater than 50% likelihood of being realized upon settlement with a tax authority that has full knowledge of all relevant information. For those tax positions where it is more-likely-than-not that a tax benefit will not be sustained, no tax benefit has been recognized in the consolidated financial statements. We classify applicable interest and penalties as a component of the provision for income taxes. Although the outcome relating to these exposures is uncertain, in our opinion adequate provisions for income taxes have been made for estimable potential liabilities emanating from these exposures. If actual outcomes differ materially from these estimates, they could have a material impact on our consolidated net earnings.
For further discussion of Income Taxes, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 9 – Income Taxes.
Business Combinations
We use the acquisition method of accounting for acquired businesses. Under the acquisition method, our consolidated financial statements reflect the operations of an acquired business starting from the closing date of the acquisition. We allocate the purchase price to the tangible and identifiable intangible assets acquired and liabilities assumed based on their estimated fair values on the acquisition date. Any residual purchase price is recorded as goodwill. The determination of fair value, as well as the expected useful lives of certain assets acquired, requires management to make judgements and may involve the use of significant estimates, including assumptions with respect to estimated future cash flows, discount rates and valuation multiples from comparable publicly traded companies, among other things. Management estimates of fair value are based upon assumptions believed to be reasonable, but which are inherently uncertain and unpredictable.
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During fiscal 2021, we increased our investment in Deciem Beauty Group Inc. (“DECIEM”) on a fully diluted basis from approximately 29% to approximately 76%. On a fully diluted basis, the DECIEM employee stock options, approximated 4% of the total capital structure and represent a liability on our consolidated balance sheet as of the acquisition date. Accordingly, for purposes of determining the consideration transferred, we excluded the DECIEM stock options, which resulted in an increase in our post-acquisition undiluted equity interest from approximately 30% to approximately 78% and the post-acquisition undiluted equity interest of the remaining noncontrolling interest holders of approximately 22%. We originally acquired a minority interest in DECIEM in June 2017. The original minority interest was accounted for as a cost method investment and, in June 2020, we began to apply the equity method of accounting but we did not have to remeasure our investment in DECIEM since the passage of time does not constitute an observable price change. The acquisition of the increased equity interest in DECIEM was considered a step acquisition, whereby we remeasured the previously held equity method investment to its fair value, resulting in the recognition of a non-cash gain. The acquisition-date fair value of the previously held equity method investment was calculated by multiplying the gross-up of the total consideration for the acquired ownership interest of $2,988 million by the related effective previously held equity interest of approximately 30.5%. The acquisition-date fair value of the redeemable noncontrolling interest includes the acquisition-date fair value of the net Put (Call) Option of $234 million. The remaining acquisition-date fair value of the redeemable noncontrolling interest of $647 million was calculated by multiplying the gross-up of the total consideration for the acquired ownership interest of $2,988 million by the related noncontrolling interest of approximately 21.6%. As part of the acquisition of additional shares, DECIEM stock options were issued in replacement of and exchange for certain vested and unvested stock options previously issued by DECIEM. The total fair value of the DECIEM stock options of $294 million was recorded as part of the total consideration transferred, comprising of $191 million of Cash paid for vested options settled as of the acquisition date and $103 million reported as a stock options liability on the consolidated balance sheet as it is not an assumed liability of DECIEM and is expected to be settled in cash upon completion of the exercise of the Put (Call). The acquisition-date fair value of the DECIEM stock options liability was calculated by multiplying the acquisition-date fair value by the number of DECIEM stock options replaced the day after the acquisition date. The stock options replaced consist of vested and partially vested stock options.
We recorded a preliminary allocation of the total consideration transferred to the tangible and identifiable intangible assets acquired and liabilities assumed based on their fair value at the acquisition date. The total consideration transferred includes the cash paid at closing, the fair value of its previously held equity method investment, the fair value of the redeemable noncontrolling interest, including the fair value of the net Put (Call) Option, and the fair value of the DECIEM stock options liability. The excess of the total consideration transferred over the fair value of the net tangible and intangible assets acquired was recorded as goodwill.
For further discussion of Business Combinations, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Note 5 – Acquisition of Businesses and Note 18 – Stock Programs.
CAUTIONARY NOTE REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING INFORMATION
We and our representatives from time to time make written or oral forward-looking statements, including in this and other filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, in our press releases and in our reports to stockholders, which may constitute “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. Such statements may address our expectations regarding sales, earnings or other future financial performance and liquidity, other performance measures, product introductions, entry into new geographic regions, information technology initiatives, new methods of sale, our long-term strategy, restructuring and other charges and resulting cost savings, and future operations or operating results. These statements may contain words like “expect,” “will,” “will likely result,” “would,” “believe,” “estimate,” “planned,” “plans,” “intends,” “may,” “should,” “could,” “anticipate,” “estimate,” “project,” “projected,” “forecast,” and “forecasted” or similar expressions. Although we believe that our expectations are based on reasonable assumptions within the bounds of our knowledge of our business and operations, actual results may differ materially from our expectations. Factors that could cause actual results to differ from expectations include, without limitation:
(1)increased competitive activity from companies in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care businesses;
(2)our ability to develop, produce and market new products on which future operating results may depend and to successfully address challenges in our business;
(3)consolidations, restructurings, bankruptcies and reorganizations in the retail industry causing a decrease in the number of stores that sell our products, an increase in the ownership concentration within the retail industry, ownership of retailers by our competitors or ownership of competitors by our customers that are retailers and our inability to collect receivables;
(4)destocking and tighter working capital management by retailers;
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(5)the success, or changes in timing or scope, of new product launches and the success, or changes in timing or scope, of advertising, sampling and merchandising programs;
(6)shifts in the preferences of consumers as to where and how they shop;
(7)social, political and economic risks to our foreign or domestic manufacturing, distribution and retail operations, including changes in foreign investment and trade policies and regulations of the host countries and of the United States;
(8)changes in the laws, regulations and policies (including the interpretations and enforcement thereof) that affect, or will affect, our business, including those relating to our products or distribution networks, changes in accounting standards, tax laws and regulations, environmental or climate change laws, regulations or accords, trade rules and customs regulations, and the outcome and expense of legal or regulatory proceedings, and any action we may take as a result;
(9)foreign currency fluctuations affecting our results of operations and the value of our foreign assets, the relative prices at which we and our foreign competitors sell products in the same markets and our operating and manufacturing costs outside of the United States;
(10)changes in global or local conditions, including those due to the volatility in the global credit and equity markets, natural or man-made disasters, real or perceived epidemics, or energy costs, that could affect consumer purchasing, the willingness or ability of consumers to travel and/or purchase our products while traveling, the financial strength of our customers, suppliers or other contract counterparties, our operations, the cost and availability of capital which we may need for new equipment, facilities or acquisitions, the returns that we are able to generate on our pension assets and the resulting impact on funding obligations, the cost and availability of raw materials and the assumptions underlying our critical accounting estimates;
(11)impacts attributable to the COVID-19 pandemic, including disruptions to our global business;
(12)shipment delays, commodity pricing, depletion of inventory and increased production costs resulting from disruptions of operations at any of the facilities that manufacture our products or at our distribution or inventory centers, including disruptions that may be caused by the implementation of information technology initiatives, or by restructurings;
(13)real estate rates and availability, which may affect our ability to increase or maintain the number of retail locations at which we sell our products and the costs associated with our other facilities;
(14)changes in product mix to products which are less profitable;
(15)our ability to acquire, develop or implement new information and distribution technologies and initiatives on a timely basis and within our cost estimates and our ability to maintain continuous operations of such systems and the security of data and other information that may be stored in such systems or other systems or media;
(16)our ability to capitalize on opportunities for improved efficiency, such as publicly-announced strategies and restructuring and cost-savings initiatives, and to integrate acquired businesses and realize value therefrom;
(17)consequences attributable to local or international conflicts around the world, as well as from any terrorist action, retaliation and the threat of further action or retaliation;
(18)the timing and impact of acquisitions, investments and divestitures; and
(19)additional factors as described in our filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, including this Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2021.
We assume no responsibility to update forward-looking statements made herein or otherwise.